pflaming Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 This thread replaces an earlier one, which had incorrect information. This is a '97 Wrangler axle, from a 6 cyl, 2WD, AT, 3:55 ratio. Initial measurements hint at a direct swap. Will know more as I proceed. The axle has all the brake lines, e-brake mechanism, good shoes and drums. I may not even have to change the perches. More later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I used one from a 93? Jeep YJ but other then the perches it worked quite well. I have a 1 ton so I had more to do with my drive shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 FYI. Look at the '87-'90 4 liter auto's. Sometimes they had D-44's under 'em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilothouse Mike Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I used a rear from a 94 Jeep I think but mine has the same ratio. Like 4mula said you pretty much just have to change the perches for a 1/2 ton. I even managed to rig the emergency brake cables from the rear to mate up with the stock emergency brake handle under the dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I'm not so sure I'll have to change the perches unless the angle is wrong. How did you guys hook up the E-brake? I have a three on the tree so mine may be different than yours. I haven't checked the u-bolts yet so I don't know if the OE will fit. Will know more end of the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl b51 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Paul, move the perches the drive shaft and Ujoints hook right up. Whats wrong with the old hand brake ? stay on it. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) FYI. "Look at the '87-'90 4 liter auto's. Sometimes they had D-44's under 'em. " What is a D-44? I know it's a tranny, but how what are the specifics? This tranny came out of a '97. Carl: I will certainly look at keeping the OE which I prefer if it is still usable. Mine is in good shape. Steering wheel today, then I promised the spouse I would tend to some spring needs before I put the axle in. I'm not hen pecked but I've learned when to stay out of the chicken house!!!!! Edited April 11, 2012 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I believe a d44 is a dana 44 rear end. very stout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 "Dana 44: The Dana 44 rear axle first saw use in the 1940s and is still in use today. The Dana 44 has a GAWR up to 3,500 lb (1,600 kg) and is a semi-floating type, having one bearing on the end of the axle shaft which carries the weight of the vehicle on the axle and also allows axle rotation. There is a 8.9" diameter Dana 44 ring and pinion that is very different from the standard Dana 44. This ring and pinion is significantly stronger with a better pinion to ring gear tooth contact patch and angle. It was typically used in the back of jeep JKs, Isuzus and Nissan pickups. This ring and pinion does share some components and can be adapted into an earlier Dana 44 but requires some work, different bearings and spacers. The benefit is the larger ring gear, better angle cut on the teeth and Dana 60 diameter pinion shaft. Jantz Engineering co out of Washington so far is the only company that has successfully adapted these into the early Dana 44 housings." Google I found the above from 'google'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I believe a d44 is a Dana 44 rear end. very stout. You are correct sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Paul; Great thread.....I will be following this with much interest. I wonder if the original wheels will fit on this swap? Maybe someone already knows... Best of luck with this. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Jeff, the wheels are supposed to fit, the Wrangler is a Dodge product. I will post as I go. It's a good way for me to document. One thing that's challenging on the forum is to find good chronologies. I have copy and pasted a lot of material and made my own, but it's amazing the detail that is involved and chronolgical pictures really help. At one time I designed, sold, and installed fresh fruit packing lines. I always had a poloroid camera, especially on a remodel. What is in the background is often as important as the initial reason for taking the picture, i.e, '. . . the rest of the story'. So I hope I won't bore anyone or give the impression that this is an ego trip. It's just become a GREAT hobby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Paul;Great thread.....I will be following this with much interest. I wonder if the original wheels will fit on this swap? Maybe someone already knows... Best of luck with this. Jeff Yep, same bolt pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Good luck. Keep an eye on the perch width, differential location and the angle of the current perches. The angle of the axle when it was in the wrangler could have been different than what you'll need. If you have to change the perches, it's not that hard and you can find them at a place like Tractor Supply in the trailer section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) From Tim on the car side and thought it was important informtion for this thread as well. Thanks Tim. "Your rear gear needs to be low enough to effectively get the hulk of steel rolling without straining your clutch..often if the ratio is too high the feather of the clutch and higher RPM to get the chassis moving is the result..the other extreme you already know,..if too low you are limited at top end and crusie but power off the line if great...finding middle ground is about the best thing you can in regard to ratio if you do not have access to an OD unit. Effectively, the 3.55 is still a good cruise (+16MPH over stock 3.9, 24 mph if you have a 4.1) and still not dog the enigne/clutch in stock form..going to the higher gear is not a bad chice today given the roads are not dirt and rutted as these cars normally say in thier day, the interstate high speed and long but less inclided grades make the lower ratios a thing of the past..the flattie develops its max torque at low rpm so this is also a plus when going to the higher gears..next biggest plus to modern rear gears is the brakes, self cnetering drum/shoe or disc is always a great safety device, can upkeep these easy with basic hand tools. The marriage of the rear e-brake cables to the original handbrake pull lever is not a hard job either giving the best of both worlds..." Tim Update: Dodge rear axle is out ready now for Wrangler axle and then reassemble the entire suspension. Edited March 28, 2018 by pflaming Update: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) Andy B has these in sets for $40 / set or $40 x 4 + shipping @ $175+/-. Is he the best source? Each set includes: the U shackles, bushings, et.al. Which is improved the most, the steering or the ride? Or is that a matter of opinion? Mine were not rusty so "usable" but they are off so I may replace with new. PF Edit: found this from Charlie: There are four things that contribute to a loose feel or wandering in your steering. 1. Drag link, 2. tie rod ends, 3. king pins, and 4. steering box. You should replace or rebuild them all on any truck that is used above 45 mph or on any road other than a slow two lane country road. Charlies doesn't mention springs as a part of steering. So then the shackles etc may be mostly ride related. If one has good shocks then if the shackles/bushings are not WORN OUT and take grease, they may be a bit forgiving. Is that a fair conclusion? Edited April 23, 2012 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 (edited) I did this same swap and used spring perches from Northern Tool, Part # 12427W $4.99 each plus shipping, had the u bolts bent up at a local heavy truck spring shop for $9.50 each...new shocks from Napa ..sorry cant seem to find the part # on those, I removed 2 leafs all the way around at the same time to drop ride height, so needed shorter shocks anyways...im sure you have heard it a hundred times on here but watch the pinion angle....not hard to set , but its very important, and there are some really good posts regarding it Edited April 26, 2012 by albolton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 (edited) What a timely post (post above). So the old U-Bolts won't work, axle housing must be larger. Oh well, something else to peddle. Question #1: How much did removing the leafs lower did your truck ? I took out one leaf, then placed it on top of the spring for storage purposes. Question #2: Did removing two leafs change the tie rod area? Question #3: What is your comforatable top speed now? Final question: What wheel and tire sizes are you using? My goal is to get the suspension completed next week. Thanks for the information, very timely! OT getting new hearing aids today. The old ones were 'in the canal type', kept getting them mixed up with my suppository! Edited March 28, 2018 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 I was running a P225 70 R15 all the way around..I just put on P 275 60 R 15..still no issues, not really sure what you mean by change the tie rod area, I had to move the pitman arm on the box to re center the steering wheel, but I run a differenr steering configuration than you ...so im not sure what issues you will have there, I have a Dana 35 with 3:73 gears, comfortable at 60,,still a pretty low gear...here is a before and after pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 (edited) That is a beautiful truck, I have a pic of it. Comfortable at 60. . . I was hoping for 65. Maybe 16" wheels and tires will get me 65 although it's not the wheel size, it's the height / circumferance of the tire. It just occured to me that 'storing' the removed leaves on top may have eliminated any lowering of my truck, too early in the morning to think about that, but if so, bummer, a lot of work and no lowering. . . . Edit: I looked at my pictures and it won't be that difficult to remove that leaf I put on the top. I want to lower the truck a little. It won't be as much as Albolton's but some will help both in looks and maybe in cornering. Edited April 26, 2012 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 exact lowering, that would be hard to guess for sure..the removing of the leaves did allow lowering I am sure due to the less strength that was forming the arch of the springs..if your axle is mounted on top the axle there was no physical lowering due to the thickness of the over all spring being the same with the leaves flipped to the top..so if you wish a bit of extra lowering but are happy with your current ride height..remove the short ones you place at the top..again..only if axle is below the spring.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 (edited) Well I removed the leaves. So will see how the truck sits. These leaves show very little wear. The wear shown is visible but not to the touch. If I like the result these will be available to someone whose leaves are badly worn. These have been sand blasted, sanded, then treated with silicone. Edited March 28, 2018 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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