Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I finally got the 54 Plymouth running....sounds just like a sewing machine. I noticed that the rear freeze plug was dripping (behind the oil filter of course) so I bought a brass spare. I decided to JB weld the leak to see how she runs (being that it was early morning). Well she ran for about 10 minutes and blammo! The plug blew. Well, JB held the leak, too good in fact that the plug blew.

The only ones NAPA had were the brass "deep" ones. I did notice that the existing plug was not set back as far as the others (casting defect?). So I cleaned the hole, and set the brass one. You can see how far out it is. There was not much meat to grab into. Plugged the oil filter ports until I know the freeze plug will work.

post-8191-13585367630714_thumb.jpg

post-8191-13585367631369_thumb.jpg

post-8191-13585367631915_thumb.jpg

Posted

As a temporary measure about 6 years ago, I put in an expandable rubber boiler plug, instad of struggling with a welch plug. Them and I have never gotten along for some reason. I can never get them seated, and then there is never any room to swig the hammer properly.

These go in then you hold them still and tighten the nut which squeezes the rubber into tight contact withthe edges of the casting hole.

FreezePlug.JPG

Posted

54 Illinios,

Please disregard this, as I am only an ignorant hillbilly from North Carolina, but shouldn't the welch plug be put in the other way (flip it) and then peened into the hole with a ball peen hammer to spread it wider?

If in fact your repair worked your probably correct and I'm the ignorant hillbilly.

I have had a couple of 48 Chryslers but have never had to (Thank God and knock on Wood) mess with the freeze (Welch Plugs) before therefore I am only guessing here. I hope your repair holds - pulling Oil Filter elements or starters out of the way is no fun.:D

Tom

Posted

I do believe that Tom Skinner is right on the freeze plug being in bassackwards with all the ones I have dealt with and from the pick you posted it needs to be turned around and hammered in. Make sure that you have it started in straight and when you hammer it in the engine it will swell up to plug the hole other wise it will just pop back out. At least all the ones I have done the cup part goes in toward the engine and the round part goes out otherwise it will not spred the plug it will get even smaller to the hole.

Larry

Posted

I really believe that is the incorrect plug for that block. Those blocks have shallow recess and take a "flat" plug. I always clean out the recess and wipe a little Permatex around the recess to make up for any corrosion then set the plug---convex side out---then give it a hit with a hammer.

Don

Posted

I always use brass flat plugs. Clean the counter bore well, Drive it flat with large Dia. driver tool and seal with JB Weld. Never a leak even on deeply pitted counter bores.

brassflatcupsoftplugcou.jpg

moparflatbrasscupsoftpl.jpg

Guest P15-D24
Posted
I really believe that is the incorrect plug for that block. Those blocks have shallow recess and take a "flat" plug. I always clean out the recess and wipe a little Permatex around the recess to make up for any corrosion then set the plug---convex side out---then give it a hit with a hammer.

Don

THat deep plug will never seat or hold. It is for a modern block. The rubber plugs are a good alternative and emergency backup.

Posted

Actually , that deep plug will probably hold . I used one like that for a couple of years , only I put mine in backwards , with the cup side facing inwards . Worked fine until I pulled the engine for rebuilding .

Posted

I put a set of the dished flat plugs in and didnt know at the time how to set them. Now I know that puting them in with the dome out and seating them in by flattening the dome out is how it works. :rolleyes: I tried the more modern cupped type and too loose. I opted for the rubber type plugs and had to trim the rubber to fit into the hole past the machined part so it would flush up with the block. All of the plugs on the side of the block were leaking so I replaced all of them with the rubber type. Seems to be holding fine after a year and driving it almost every day. :D

Posted
Sounds like time for a good flushing and roto rooting of the block......

I thought about that. I am going to pull the rest of the plugs, pull the water pump and flush thru the distribution tube.

What kind of temp and PSI would blow a freeze plug? Any chance it compromised the head gasket?

As far as I know the thermostat is correct.

Posted

The backward plugs may hold OK.

I blew a plug in my 50 Plymouth the first time I got it up to 50 mph. The same thing happened the next test drive. I had not re torqued my head and a compression leak was allowing high compression into the water jacket. After I replaced the head gasket and re torqued again after warmup I have had no more plug problems. There are backwards plugs like you have and one correct plug in the block and they have all held now for ten years.

Posted
I set a new disk plug tonight...It looks like crap, but I think it is set. I used the ball of a ball peen hammer. I also pulled the thermostat.

It is possible to deform it too much...

Posted

dorman makes a ALL BRASS expandable freeze plug,,ive heard goood things about them,,,clean out the bore,,put a bead of a product made by ( permatex ?? called the right stuff in a spray type can,,its killer stuff) on the side of the bore install the brass expandable plug,,dont over tighten,,,

i know this how ??? i have a motor that some one put brass factory style dished plugs in,,,brass is too soft to expand from being beat on to make it seal in my opinion,,, soon il be installing these plugs,,, if some oen wants a pic ill glady get them out and take a pic,,, just my 2 cents

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use