Ignition switch question(s)

[pflaming]

This idea is out of the box so be patient with me. I have a Mopar 606 radio but only the control part. I have it in the dash for looks. I can isolate the switch w/o harming the future of the radio and use that switch for ________.

So. . . what if I run the power from the ignition switch to this switch and use the radio switch as my primary on/off switch. A sortof anti theft device. I can the wire the dial light to this and the dial will light up when the switch is on. There would be no power into the radio, I would just use the switch.

Now the power out wire goes to the engine. I think it will work but for one very important detail: is the wire out large enough to handle the power to the engine?

Edited November 14, 2017 by pflaming

[Dave72dt]

That wire would need to be the same gauge as the power feed in which should be the same gauge as the factory switch output wire.. Next question is how much amperage will the radio switch handle.

[pflaming]

Dave, I have a 606 Manual. If I read it correctly, it will handle 6.4. So then the switch is not the issue, the wires and the soldering. . .

[Dave72dt]

To be safe, run just the ign system off the radio and leave everything else on the key switch.

[HanksB3B]

It'll have to handle 6.8 amps I believe that's a lot. I wouldn't do anything befor taking to a qualified electrical engineer or at least someone here that is an electrician.

Hank

[pflaming]

Hank, the manual says 6.3 amps to the switch. If the engine askes for 6.8 then the switch might blow, so will abandon the idea.

My thinking WAS to leave the ignition as is, and put the radio switch in the line returning to the engine. Then maybe add a fuse between the radio switch and the engine for protection. I would properly remove the old wires from the switch and solder on new ones of proper size. The ignition switch would remain as the primary the radio as a 'hidden' second switch. Would have given some novel use for the radio.

Oh well, just a crazy idea. Better not mess with 'mother nature'. Thanks for the kind responses.

Edited March 19, 2012 by pflaming
added a comment

[Twiggyb2]

instead of using the radio switch to start the truck. you could use the radio switch to power the coil. if there is now power to the coil when the switch is turned off the truck will not start. the reason i sugest this is that the radio switch wire is close to the same gauge as the coil wires coming of the ignition switch.

I would find out what side of the coil is switched.

then run a wire from that side of the coil to the on side of the radio

then run a wire from the switch on side of the ignition switch with a fuse of the correct size to the power side of the radio switch.

so when you tutn the ignion switch and the radio switch on you have power to the coil and the truck will start.

just my .02

hope that helps you.

[sniggle_t]

Use the radio switch to turn on/off a relay that would handle the load. This would allow the safe use of the radio switch.

[sniggle_t]

OK,

Thinking out loud here. Please jump in and correct me if I am wrong on this.

You basically wish to kill power from the ignition switch to the engine as an anti-theft device if I am reading this correctly.

I believe I would wire the relay as follows.

Run power from battery negative to the radio switch. This could come from a power source under the dash that was always powered.

Two wires from the other side of the radio switch.

wire 1 to the light bulb with the other side of the bulb run to ground

wire 2 to #86 on a 20 amp automotive relay.

# 85 of the relay should be run to ground.

The wire from the ignition switch should be connected to #30 on the relay.

The wire going to the engine bay would be connected to # 87 on the relay.

Basically, you would be cutting the wire that goes from the ignition to the engine and connecting the Ignition switch side of the wire to #30 on the relay and the engine side of the wire to # 87.

This way, when you turn on the radio switch the bulb and the relay would turn on and in turn the relay would then connect the wire leading from the ignition switch to the engine bay.

I use www.madelectrical.com as a reference and source of electrical parts for most of my project vehicles. Visit their site, it is a wealth of info.

Scott

[sniggle_t]

One more thing. You will want to use a 6v relay. not the 12 volt ones that are commonly found in auto parts stores these days. I found some on ebay for around $30. I ma sure with a little searching you can find one cheaper.

Scott

[Plymouthy Adams]

solid state relays with 10A capacity with 3 to 32 volt range for energizing are but 18.00 a pop..buy one..later go to 12 volts..still applicable..

[sniggle_t]

Great idea Tim!

[pflaming]

My first reason was sortof a 'whim'. Since I will have a cosmetic radio, can it be usefull, maybe to turn on another radio in the glove compartment or to turn on the interior light(s) or _____, why not a hidden ignition, more for novelty but it would have some anti-theft benefit. (On these old vehicals one can start them with a quarter, so anti-theft is a 'misnomer'. I like the above ideas and I 'm going to apply them. Thank you.

[TodFitch]

...On these old vehicles one can start them with a quarter, so anti-theft is a 'misnomer'. ....

Please explain...

[pflaming]

The quarter statement was a 'lingering memory' and may not be accurate. What I recall was that guys would have a piece of wire with clips on the end, clip the appropriate posts and drive 'home'. AND on "some" vehicals they crossed the poles with a quarter or nickle to start a car or so I recall.

Now Frankie or Don will have to fill in the accuracy of my 'statement'.

Lots of unique things were done in the '50s: lowering, colored celephone on the dash bulbs, cut the top out of the steering wheel to make it look like an airplane control, MUDFLAPS, chain dropping from the rear axle to 'reduce' radio static, etc.

[TodFitch]

The quarter statement was a 'lingering memory' and may not be accurate. What I recall was that guys would have a piece of wire with clips on the end, clip the appropriate posts and drive 'home'. AND on "some" vehicals they crossed the poles with a quarter or nickle to start a car or so I recall.

Now Frankie or Don will have to fill in the accuracy of my 'statement'.

Lots of unique things were done in the '50s: lowering, colored celephone on the dash bulbs, cut the top out of the steering wheel to make it look like an airplane control, MUDFLAPS, chain dropping from the rear axle to 'reduce' radio static, etc.

Ahh. Shorting or bypassing the starter solenoid with a quarter to get the starter to run. I hadn't thought of that. Still need to jump the coil but I guess that is what the wire with the clips was for.

Neither would work on my '33 as it has a mechanical linkage to engage the starter and an armored line between the ignition switch and the coil. But there are plenty of '50s and '60s vehicles where it would have worked.

[Young Ed]

If your 33 is like my 46 pickup you can just reach down and push the starter by hand and it works. Doesn't get you around the armored line between the ign and coil though.

[TodFitch]

If your 33 is like my 46 pickup you can just reach down and push the starter by hand and it works. Doesn't get you around the armored line between the ign and coil though.

You are right. And if you can't get enough leverage on the linkage on the starter pedal the hand crank is behind the rear seat back.

Oops. Now you know where I store the hand crank...

But you will still have to bring your own coil to start the engine.

[Young Ed]

Haha my handcrank is long lost to history. I'm not even sure I put the proper crank nut back on when I ended up with the 52 plymouth engine.