55 Fargo Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Hey all, going to repair and install a new truck bed floor, here are some pics, of the bed area. Today I removed the brace strips, and am on the way to wood replacement. Not going to spend any big money, nothing fancy, using marine grade Douglas Fir 3/4 inch plywood. I will post progress pics along the way. The strips are rough, will blast and paint em, any other ideas. Please post any low budget bed floors pics you may have. I am not going to be buying an expensive kit from Horkeys, or any other. Maybe someday in the far future, but for a rought rat type truck, to haul things going on the frugal.... Quote
Young Ed Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Fred new strips are inexpensive. I bought stainless steel ones for my next truck I think I spent $80 including shipping. The plain steel ones are even cheaper. check mar-k as one source. Quote
pflaming Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) This is about as frugal as you can get. I sandblasted the shovel strips, bought zinc flat head bolts, a 8x4 sheet of 3/4 plywood, and some deep brown stain. I stained the marine plywood both sides, slid it into the frame and bolted it down. Took some 80 bolts and a long day. One can put on whatever finish you like. Some put a nice ash finish. Personal choice. Edited August 30, 2018 by pflaming 1 Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Do put some kind of sealer on it, be it paint, stain, varnish or whatever and do the edges as well. They take forever to dry out once they get wet. Quote
PatS.... Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Fred, looks like now would be a good time to replace the shocks while you don't need to lay on the cold floor to do it... Also, paint or finish both sides of the plywood, otherwise the painted side will peel. By the way, when will you be finished, my buddy and his wife are moving! LOL!! Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Posted February 15, 2012 Do put some kind of sealer on it, be it paint, stain, varnish or whatever and do the edges as well. They take forever to dry out once they get wet. gonna use marine grade urethane, I think.... Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Posted February 15, 2012 Fred, looks like now would be a good time to replace the shocks while you don't need to lay on the cold floor to do it...Also, paint or finish both sides of the plywood, otherwise the painted side will peel. By the way, when will you be finished, my buddy and his wife are moving! LOL!! The shocks, can be done anytime, they look aweful but seem to work. I am going to take the box right off again, in the warmer months, and clean and paint frame, replce shocks exhaust etc. This truck will not be finished for a realllllllll longggg time, there is very little extra cash flow, for this endeavor. The bottom line is, I should not really have this project/fixup, as I have my 47, which still needs a lot of money and effort too. I really like the truck, and really need a truck where I live, but money to spend on it is very scarce, and I am not going to run up credit card debts to accomplish it.... Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 You can also check with Midwest Military for the bed strips, the ONLY source that I've found for "stock" strips, everyone else has them wrong for Dodges. I think I spent $125 for my 9' bed strips custom made length. Or I could sell ya for $50 the Mar-K strips I bought but didn't use. Holes would proabbly be in the wrong spots tho. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Posted February 15, 2012 You can also check with Midwest Military for the bed strips, the ONLY source that I've found for "stock" strips, everyone else has them wrong for Dodges. I think I spent $125 for my 9' bed strips custom made length.Or I could sell ya for $50 the Mar-K strips I bought but didn't use. Holes would proabbly be in the wrong spots tho. Thanks for the offer, now without sounding super cheap, going to re-use the strip I have, will blast,and paintor blast and clear, they are quite solid still.... Quote
Standing Elk Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 I had my strips blasted and powder coated. That cost me $75.00. I also used 3/4" plywood. I cut indivigual boards out of the sheet of plywood and cut the rabbits in the edges for the strips. Mine is a B1C so I also had to cut the pattern in the outside boards for the fender wells. I used zink bolts and painted the whole thing black (all surfaces). I have some white oak curing in my shop that I will plane and cut to size sometime later when I get time. I will be able to use the plywood boards as a pattern and that should make the next go round a lot quicker and less tedious. 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Thanks for the offer, now without sounding super cheap, going to re-use the strip I have, will blast,and paintor blast and clear, they are quite solid still.... not a problem. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 16, 2012 Author Report Posted February 16, 2012 Standing Elk, truck bed look great, I am thinking of either painting my strips black or hammer tone silver. At some future point may use oak or maple, do it right with the stainless strips too, once I win the lottery.... Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Posted February 29, 2012 Did soem work on the box floor today, I decided to go with Fir marine grade 3/4 inch plywood. I had it cut to size at lumber yard, brought home and doinga test fit, and will drill mounting holes, then will stain or preseve wood with something, not sure what I am using yet. Here are a couple of pics, once stained, will install bed strips, those I have to blast and paint yet. I think it should do the trick for this old hauler. I will cover the floor once I commence body prep and paint in the box area, I may painted the bed wood the same color as the truck, therefore will need to shoot on primer too, not sure that sia good idea for haler truck.... Quote
pflaming Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 Be sure to treat both sides and the edges. I secured the plywood, then put the bed on end, much easier. Good luck. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Posted February 29, 2012 Be sure to treat both sides and the edges. I secured the plywood, then put the bed on end, much easier. Good luck. Good idea, as I am not going to treat the plywood until warmer weather in spring, will get all bolt and fasteners drilled, and installed, then will take off box , and go to it in warmer weather, I was really chilled laying on the garage floor tonight, it was quite cold here last night, and today it warmed quite a bit, but the shop floor is cold cement, did not bother truning the heat on today in there... Quote
jpwuertz Posted February 29, 2012 Report Posted February 29, 2012 One thing that I did when I had my box floor out was to loosen all of the bolts and nuts on the shocks, fuel tank and anything else I could see. I put some anti sieze on the loosened nuts to make them easier to remove if and when the time comes. Quote
55 Fargo Posted March 3, 2012 Author Report Posted March 3, 2012 Stained preserved, and bolted down Fir ply to box and truck frame, made my own rubber spacer pads too. Here are some pics of the truck bed, still need to prep and paint metal strips, thinks there going to be black. The insde of the box sides is rough now, but some day will repaint.... Next pic will be of the finished job... Nothing great about this job, but some of the members are interested in doing a budget job like this too.... Quote
Dave72dt Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 Nothing wrong with functional. At least you don't have to be afraid to use it. Quote
1952B3b23 Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 One thing that I did when I had my box floor out was to loosen all of the bolts and nuts on the shocks, fuel tank and anything else I could see. I put some anti sieze on the loosened nuts to make them easier to remove if and when the time comes. Thats a great idea, anti seize has saved me so much time and aggravation it's unbelievable! Quote
HanksB3B Posted March 3, 2012 Report Posted March 3, 2012 Gee, wish I'd thought about that too Dorothy..You know I never really minded having silver fingers...LOL.. Hank Quote
1952B3b23 Posted March 4, 2012 Report Posted March 4, 2012 Hey guys, I was going to start a new thread but this is along the lines of what all be doing too. My '52 came with out a traditional style bed on it, it had a flat wood thing from the previous owner which i don't like. Therefore im going to be ordering the box parts from Bruce Horkey's. I was wondering if anyone had more pictures on how it all gets held together. By looking at the first picture in this post it doesn't seem to be very complicated, but the more pictures i have to go by the better. Pics and input are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, -Chris Quote
1952 Fargo Posted March 5, 2012 Report Posted March 5, 2012 I started my bed project by talking to Bruce Horkey over the phone. He has lots of good advise and good products to match. Good luck. Brian Vancouver, Canada Quote
1952B3b23 Posted March 5, 2012 Report Posted March 5, 2012 That's a good idea, i've called Horkeys but the only person i talked to was a sales person to get a quote on the parts. I will call again and see if i cant talk to a more technical person, or maybe Bruce himself. I've heard really good things about his bed parts, would you agree with that? Thanks -Chris Quote
1952 Fargo Posted March 8, 2012 Report Posted March 8, 2012 I have bought his rear fenders and running boards so far, but I will definately consider bed parts as I need them, and yes, he one of the best in the business. Brian Quote
Boss Hog Posted March 14, 2012 Report Posted March 14, 2012 Fitting new Bed Wood from Horkey's, everything fits. Will remove and finish wood before final install. WWW.HORKEYSWOODANDPARTS.COM He will work with you, I have no complaints. 1 Quote
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