jpwuertz

You should try Grainger.com they should have some at a lower price.

I had this problem also and I replaced the 180 thermostat with a 160 and now the engine starts good when it is hot

I have a B3B with a 218 and have been running 30 wt non detergent oil in it. Would there be a problem if I switched to Rotella 15-40. I assume the Rotella would give the engine better wear protection than the 30wt that I currently use..

I think you could use a side grinder and grind the mushroomed part down so you could get the nut started. There should still be enough threads to hold everything together.

I purchased a new one at NAPA for my B3B and the price was reasonable.

This is the way I installed my fender welt and I based it on the from pictures in Don Bunn's book. The welt I used was from Dennis Carpenter ford restoration parts web side. I used the 1942 - 1947 style. It is a bit wider than the Dodge style and looks good.

1952 B3B with a 218 flat head.

That's interesting, you have the short one all the way to the front. All the write-ups and pictures that I have seen previously show the short one at the back. That is the way they were when I took the original floor out. When I got the truck the box floor had a metal plate over the original wood which leads me to believe they were installed at the factory in that order.

Here is the layout that was in my B3B.

Here is the interior of my B3B with the Quiet ride kit installed. I had to paint it before installation. I am very satisfied with the way it looks.

15 miles south of Melrose in Stearns county

I got the Dodges ready for the Minnesota summer season. The B3B started right up and was ready to go. The brakes were a bit sticky after setting all winter but after warming them up they are OK. The 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger is all original, except for the rims, and also started right up. It has a 318 engine. This was my aunt's car who lived in CA and therefor it has no rust.

Try a NAPA store for part number NMC M544 for the master cylinder.

I use the NAPA1080 filter in my B3B and it fits in the canister fine. Your canister may be different than mine however.

You could try an impact wrench . If you do not have one you could probably rent or borrow one.

I did not realize that the bed strips from Horkeys was not of the original Dodge design. I did not have any originals on my truck to compare to when I bought mine. They did fit perfectly and look good however.

Horkeys has the bed parts for Dodge. I got mine there and are very good and I am sure that they are the same as the original Dodge parts. http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/

I believe Windy Hill auto parts is close to New London MN and French Lake Auto Parts is near Annandale MN

I have a B3B and I think some of them had pin-striping on them when new.

JBNeal I didn't realize you had mentioned them in one of your previous posts. I found them when I was looking for information on how to adjust a voltage regulator for my old tractor. They were a good find , Thanks

If you google Chrysler Master Tech 1948 You will get a several old training Videos. They are kind of interesting.

Here is the bed wood specs from the DCPETA area of this site the following is information received from our members about the correct sizes to cut wood if doing your own truck bed. There are 6 boards all total, plus 5 metal skid strips and 2 side angles. (This is different than other makes of trucks in the same era such a Chevy’s that used 7 boards in their beds). Depth =¾ inches. All the wood is the same thickness Length = 78 inches, some people cut to length of 77 7/8 inches, so that the boards don’t actually touch the front or back of the bed, thus preventing some of the rust and rot that previous beds experienced. If you have a different length bed, then adjust the board length accordingly. Rabbit = ½ inch wide X 3/16 inch deep, if you want the metal skid strips just a little above the wood. That way anything in the bed rests on the runners and not on your beautifully finished wood. Otherwise, ½ inch wide X ¼ inchdeep for Mar-K skid strips to lay flush with the bed wood. If your skids aren’t from Mar-K then set the depth accordingly. All interior boards (B) will be rabbitted on both left and right sides. The two exterior boards (A) only have rabbit on side facing the interior. (A) Width, Outer Boards = 7 ¾ inch. Two outer boards can be as wide as 8 inch for a tighter fit, or shave ¼ for more flexibility in getting everything to look straight.. Your skid strip spacing allows for some adjustment. Remember, you can cut to 8 inch wide and then trim later if you need more room. (B) Width, Inner Boards = 7 11/16 – 7 3/8 inch. The four inner boards are same width. A wider size of 7 11/16, gives the skid strips more to hold only to and make for a tighter fit, but do not allow for as much variance. The smaller size keeps things a bit looser for adjustment purposes. The main criterion seems to be that all boards look straight and parallel when finished. ( C) Spacing= ½ inch. Space between boards (to allow for skid strips and bolts) is the same between all boards. Some people will trim the outside boards by 1/8 inch so the wood doesn’t actually touch the bedsides and create rot. Skid Strip bolts = 8 1/8 inch. Distance between bolt holes for skid strips is 8 1/8 inch center to center for inside boards. Outside skid strip bolts have the center hole 8 ¼ or 8 3/8 inch from the bed side. If your holes are different then wood spacing will need to be adjusted. Other things to watch for. Put anti squeak between the frame and bed crossmembers. Some people use a small nylon washer between the wood and support frames to slightly raise the wood and keep it dry when in direct contact with the metal frame. Otherwise, water doesn't dry out where the wood is in continual contact with metal. Dimensions for the hold down bolts on the outer boards. I don’t have this information. Can someone supply this. There are 3 holds for bolts, 2 to bolt to the frame and 1 to bolt to a cross member. There are no holes in the 4 inner boards as they are held in place by the skid strips. Here’s an illustration to help: Board Dimensions A Outer C B Inner C B Inner C B Inner C B Inner C A Outer

My quiet ride interior kit looks just as good as the day it I installed it. I painted it brown which was the original color of the interior so it matches he seat.

I had the screeching clutch pedal also. I solved the problem by finding some 1/8 inch round baler belt and cutting holes out for the clutch and brake pedals and then screwed it to the metal floor board. It now rubs on he belt instead of the steel floor board. You could use any kind of flat belting but the round baler belt was easy to come by on my brothers the farm.

I have a b3b with a radiator that was redone with a modern core and I have been using it wit a 4 lb cap. Should I be concerned that the 4 lbs of pressure will be a problem or not. I just assumed the truck came with a pressure system. I have had the truck for several years and drive it regularly during the summer without any problems. I could leave the pressure cap on but not tighten it all the way which would not allow the pressure to build up.