FESTER60 Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 My '50 Coronet project is sort of on hold for the winter. So I spend this time making plans and gathering parts for an all out assault in the spring. I have read here that the Jeep Cherokee rear end is a popular choice for a swap for the flathead cars. As some of you know, I have transplanted a 318/904 combo into my car. My question is would the Jeep rear still be a good choice in my case? :confused:I am sure I can find one locally for a good price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austinsailor Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 I seem to recall that the Cherokee has drums, the Grand Cherokee is fitted with disks after a certain year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 The Cherokee may be a good choise but I dont recall anyone posting a successful install using this differental. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 later models use the MoPar industry standard 8 1/4...its all in finding the ratio and width you need..start first with what wheels you plan to run..the rear end selection will be determined by that and crunch the number for the proper ratio according to your donor drive trains rear gear and tires you will be using now..most speedos can be accurate if you take all this in consideration first.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FESTER60 Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 I seem to recall that the Cherokee has drums, the Grand Cherokee is fitted with disks after a certain year. Yes my local junkyard guy has three NEW Grand Cherokee rear ends w/disc brakes. But no matter how many times I measured them they are still too wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FESTER60 Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 later models use the MoPar industry standard 8 1/4...its all in finding the ratio and width you need..start first with what wheels you plan to run..the rear end selection will be determined by that and crunch the number for the proper ratio according to your donor drive trains rear gear and tires you will be using now..most speedos can be accurate if you take all this in consideration first.. I will be running my stock wheels and radial tires close to the old stock H78-15's that on on it now. I was wondering about the speedo thing. My stock cable screws right in to the 904's output. I figured I would have to fiddle with the ratio a little to get it correct. There seems to be plenty on e-bay to choose from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FESTER60 Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 The Cherokee may be a good choise but I dont recall anyone posting a successful install using this differental. I searched it and a couple of guys said it "fit like a glove". I was also hoping the yokes from the Cherokee would match the one on my 904. Another Choice may be a Wrangler. I measured one and it's almost exactly the same width as my stock unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 you have Spicer 1310, 1330 and 1350 series on cars and light trucks..Neapco and Spicer both make conversion joints to mix and match any yoke at any position you wish to chose within the three series.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryPrice Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 They're stout enough for a 318/904 combo. I ran across a good deal on an Explorer 8.8". It's a really stout rear, but, the only reason I chose it was the disk brakes. 4 wheel disk, rack and pinion steering, king pins...modern marvel huh? Actually though, it does handle much better than I'd expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FESTER60 Posted January 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 They're stout enough for a 318/904 combo. I ran across a good deal on an Explorer 8.8". It's a really stout rear, but, the only reason I chose it was the disk brakes. 4 wheel disk, rack and pinion steering, king pins...modern marvel huh? Actually though, it does handle much better than I'd expected. I am considering the Explorer rear end as well. Plenty of them around and disc brakes to boot. Do you know what year and gear ratio you used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) I recently bought a 2000 Explorer for junk price. The 1995 and newer Explorers have disc rearends, and are a good fit for my 38 Plymouth The Explorer is 1 1/2 inchs wider than the 95 Ranger, drum rearend, with I had intended on using. Edited January 7, 2012 by Robert Horne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) Robrt H., couldn't you use two 1" spacers to "widen" out that 95 Explorer rearend ??? Something like those shown below. Cass, alias littlemo ADD: FESTER60, how about some pics of your build project ?? Edited January 6, 2012 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alshere59 Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) Yes my local junkyard guy has three NEW Grand Cherokee rear ends w/disc brakes. But no matter how many times I measured them they are still too wide. Fester I put a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with disc brakes on my 50 Plymouth more door. If memory serves it was 5/8ths of an inch wider on each side. Leaving plenty of wheel clearance with my stock rims as shown in the pic. I would have thought your Coronet would be the same wheelbase. You are measuring from the outer most edge where the wheel bolts on right? I had to get my drive shaft lengthened but I had converted to a modern ujoint prior to the rear end swap. That required a flange to be bolted on the old pinion and since it wasn't needed for the new rear end my drive shaft was a bit short. So I am not sure if you would. Edited January 6, 2012 by Alshere59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarerstranger Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Above everything i prefer my rear ends to be female ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Search a link for "dakota rear diff swap" posted by steveplym. He basicly has a step-by-step install. I've made my summer project for nex year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 Robrt H., couldn't you use two 1" spacers to "widen" out that 95 Explorer rearend ??? Something like those shown below. Cass, alias littlemo ADD: FESTER60, how about some pics of your build project ?? Thanks Littlemo for the info. Sorry I did not do a good job on posting what I was trying to say. The Explorer rearends are a good fit for the Plymouth, compared to the Ranger rearends that are shorter. I seen the adapters on ebay, and intended on using the adapters, but I found the Explorer rearend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldodge41 Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 I used 1.5 inch spacers on the '93 Explorer rear in my '41 Dodge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty O'Toole Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 "I had to get my drive shaft lengthened but I had converted to a modern ujoint prior to the rear end swap. That required a flange to be bolted on the old pinion and since it wasn't needed for the new rear end my drive shaft was a bit short. So I am not sure if you would. " If your driveshaft is a bit too short you can usually find a longer front yoke that will make up the difference, up to 3 or 4 inches maybe more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alshere59 Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 "I had to get my drive shaft lengthened but I had converted to a modern ujoint prior to the rear end swap. That required a flange to be bolted on the old pinion and since it wasn't needed for the new rear end my drive shaft was a bit short. So I am not sure if you would. "If your driveshaft is a bit too short you can usually find a longer front yoke that will make up the difference' date=' up to 3 or 4 inches maybe more.[/quote'] Good information. I will keep it in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 I used 1.5 inch spacers on the '93 Explorer rear in my '41 Dodge. I believe with the 2000 Explorer rearend and the wide 7 inch Plymouth wheels, 235/75-15 inch tires, I will not need spacers on my 38.. maybe.. Today, I tried to get the Explorer started, but the 98 and up Explorers have a Security System, that with the least amount of problems, the systems prevents the vehicle from starting. I have not found any type of bypass around the system yet. This Ford system creates more problems for owners than it does to repel thieves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FESTER60 Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 Fester I put a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with disc brakes on my 50 Plymouth more door. If memory serves it was 5/8ths of an inch wider on each side. Leaving plenty of wheel clearance with my stock rims as shown in the pic. I would have thought your Coronet would be the same wheelbase. You are measuring from the outer most edge where the wheel bolts on right? I had to get my drive shaft lengthened but I had converted to a modern ujoint prior to the rear end swap. That required a flange to be bolted on the old pinion and since it wasn't needed for the new rear end my drive shaft was a bit short. So I am not sure if you would. No I was measuring between backing plates. Th Grand Cherokee rear was a lot wider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 based on brake configuration..the backing plates can greatly vary...your stock wheel is basically neutral offset and thus the track will run true if you you use the flange to flange measurement..if you vary off the flange meausrement offset in wheels, spacers needed etc come directly into play..if you plan to run a modern wheel take the offset into consideration when buying your axle..you will not find a axle that will give you both modern and old tires compatability due to offset of the newer wheels..also newer wheels can give you a nightmare on front wheels as hubs are now perma-lubed smaller flat design over the older cone bearing hubs of the past...major pain..can be overcome but at a bit of work and machining.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FESTER60 Posted January 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 No I plan to run my stock wheels. The car is from so. Cal. and they are in great condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryPrice Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 I am considering the Explorer rear end as well. Plenty of them around and disc brakes to boot. Do you know what year and gear ratio you used? Sorry. I've had so much going on, haven't been on in a while. It's a 3.55. It's wound a little too tight on the highway for me, but does well for cruising around the back roads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
58prostreet Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 I have a '52 Dodge Wayfarer. I used a '99 Explorer rear with posi and 4.10. The 4.10 is too low for me. Wish I had gotten a 3.55. Rear was 1/2 " too wide, so used 1/4" spacers and stock wheels. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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