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Posted

I have just aquired a 53 B-4-B-108 and have been creeping around on yalls site for about a month now. I still dont have the truck home yet as it hasnt dried out enough to get it out of the mud. Yall have a great site and I have really enjoyed learning about this old truck.

It was last registered in 1973 and it looks like it has been sitting there that long. I havent got to crawl around it too much but it is mostly there and very little rust that I have found so far. I have some pictures but I havent figured out how to post hem yet.

I am going out this weekend to try and get it out of the mud. The tires are flat and I was going to buy some cheap rims and tires to slap on it to get it home. I found some off of a 95 Jeep Grand Chreokee that have the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. What I dont know is will the hole for the hub be big enough? These aint going to be the forever wheels just to get it home.

Any thoughts/information would be greatly appreciated, Tom

Posted

Is the alingment stud necessary to put the stock wheels back on, and if not how hard is it to remove. Is it cast into the drum or is it pressed into a hole type thing?

Thanks again, Tom

Posted
Is the alingment stud necessary to put the stock wheels back on, and if not how hard is it to remove. Is it cast into the drum or is it pressed into a hole type thing?

Thanks again, Tom

Welcome to the dark side Tom! :D

The alignment pins are not necessary, but do help. Hack saw or grinder will do the trick.

Posted

Good luck getting it home.

I'd be worried that the shoes are bonded to the drums at this point and the wheels might not turn. Hope that's not the case or you'll have some work ahead of you to get it on the trailer.

Posted

The problem with trucks parked for decades is that ya don't know what will keep it from rolling. Brakes could be locked up, bearings could be frozen, etc. and ya need to tear the truck apart just to find out what needs fixin' just to get it rolling.

The trick I learned with yankin' an old truck out of the ground is to not mess with the tires & wheels until the truck is ready to be torn apart. Old flat tires that will be discarded can be used to keep the rims from rolling on the ground/pavement/trailer. With the wheels locked up, the truck can be dragged with the old tires sliding on the ground/pavement/trailer. Eventually, the tire beads will break loose from the locked up wheels, and the stiff old tires will spin on the locked up wheels. It'll be good enough to get that beast moved short distances (with a lotta oomph needed).

Posted

I was hoping that I could soak the brakes/wheels in good ol PB while I dug it out of the mud. Then maybe, just maybe the wheels would turn. I'm trying to keep from having to hire a wrecker to get it home and can get it on a trailer.

Just saw the link on pictures. I'll try to get them up in a little while.

Posted

Im gonna try an post the pics. we'll see if I get it right.

Tom

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Posted

Does the grill and the dash match. I thought the '53 dash (yours) went with a two piece grill? (see attachment) How long did they keep the four bars grill. Welcome!

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Posted

I don't know. From looking at pictures I was wondering the same thing the nose looks like 50-51, but the door tag says its a 53. I'm still new to these trucks so does anyone have any ideas.

Posted

grille and front fenders appear to be the earlier model. Hood, cab and box appear to be original.

Posted
Cab back is 53 front end is 48-50

Fenders are, but the hood and nose are from a '53. It's interesting how they grafted the '48-'50 grille onto the newer nose.

The '48-'50's don't have the flat body line on the hood where is meets the fenders. Nor do they have the 'bump' in the center of the nose above the 'Dodge' emblem.

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Posted

welllsir this is a new one on me, I ain't seen a '48-50 grille panel modified with part of a '51-53...looking closely at the front, I can see discoloration that parallels the welding that was done to get the top of the '48-50 grille panel modified to use the filler from a '51-53 grille panel where the hood meets...how'bout that! :cool:

knowing that black dirt like I do, I reckon that front axle and part of the rear axle are into the ground...that beast will need to be dug out or dragged out, don't think it'll roll without quite a bit of effort to get it clear.

Posted

When you pull it, put a good log chain around the axle, then run it over a car/truck wheel then to your truck/tractor. The wheel will force the axle UP before it goes horizontal. Works good with posts and trees also.

Interesting doghouse/cab combo.

Posted

My plan is to dig out enough to jack it up so the wheels will clear the ground. After that I'm just gonna make it up as i go. I have done other restorations but none of them were in this shape, or had put roots into the ground. I'm pretty excited.

Posted

The chain over the wheel sounds like a great idea. I'll give it a shot.

Posted

remember that should have lugbolts in stead of lug nuts and on one side you will have left haded bolts. There should be an L (as in left) on the top of the lug bolt.Grind them wheel alignment stud off if it's in your way. Or blow a hole in your steel wheel in the right spot.

Posted

Well I was able to get it out and got it home. I didnt end up using the chain/wheel method, we used a tractor jack and lifted it out of the dirt and put wood under the front axel. Glad I didnt buy the wheels and tires as one wheel only turned a quarter turn and one about half a rotation. The other two were locked up solid.

Of course the truck had to squeeze through two gates just wide enough to fit and between a couple of trees. The worse part was a guy had tried to pull it out with a bobcat and there were 2 1/2 to 3 foot deep ruts with standing water. We covered the 100 feet of marsh with scrap wood, used three chains and a tow rope attached to my 4x4 and drug that bad boy out. I have attached some pics of the extraction.

Once I got it out I was able to get a better look at it. As discussed earlier you can see where the welding was done to put the early nose on the 53 body. The rails in the bed are gone and there is some rust through on the bottom of the bed sides. The cab, doors, and front fenders look pretty good. Looks like all of the mechanical is there except for the radiator.

I took some pictures of the engine tag, trans, and rear end. I'll start another thread to see if yall can help me ID these. Tomorrow it meets the power washer, I'm pretty excited. Tom

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