47heaven Posted July 18, 2011 Report Posted July 18, 2011 Well, guys...last time I posted on here I was having problems with the car motor cutting out. It did turn out to be the ignition switch. So that has been solved with a temporary one right now until I can buy the correct one for it when I have the money. My new problem is a little hang up with the overdrive not engaging. It first started a couple months back with it not engaging without a few attemps of letting off the accelerator until it kicked in. Now, it won't even engage at all. I can tell the system is ready to kick in when I let off the accelorater, but nothing happens. I was reading on here that it could be a fuse that has gone out, but where are the fuses for these located? I would like to troubleshoot and see if that may be the problem, unless it may be something else that someone on here can tell just by what I have mentioned. Thanks, Darin Quote
1941Rick Posted July 18, 2011 Report Posted July 18, 2011 Can you hear the solinoid cut in when you reach about 26 mph? Quote
Young Ed Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 In stock configuration the only fuse is on the relay under the hood. Quote
47heaven Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Posted July 19, 2011 Can you hear the solinoid cut in when you reach about 26 mph? Most of it is what I feel when I let off the gas, not what I hear. The feeling of letting off the gas in third geer with o/d engaged is a lot different then how it feels when it's not, if that makes sense. So I know that some connection is made, but nothing is engaging. I do recall though the exact moment it went out for good, and that was when I was in overdrive and ready to enter a freeway onramp. I was still in third when I made the turn and then I hit the accelerator, the engine reved kinda high, but there was no power, so I down shifted to second and regained speed, then into third and when I entered the freeway, I let off the accelerator, and nothing. I tried numerous times, but it wouldn't engage. So I got off the freeway and drove side streets. I don't know. Maybe it was something I did, when I was getting on the freeway? Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 This must be overdrive month or something. Tom Quote
kevinanderson Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 Mine did the same thing. I went thru and cleaned all the connections. might be full of crap, but it worked. Quote
47heaven Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Posted July 19, 2011 Mine did the same thing. I went thru and cleaned all the connections. might be full of crap, but it worked. This is what I'm thinking too, Kevin. Again, do you know where the fuses to it are located? Quote
1941Rick Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 seems to me a mechanical problem. what kind of oil are you running in the transmission? Problem could be in the over running clutch if you are using the wrong oil.....my 2 cents worth....I have had the same issue with mine where it would not cut in when doing the same thing you did. however it did engage again with no problems...O/D's are so much fun........ Quote
wayfarerstranger Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 I have an over drive i was going to install but i`m beginning to think there was a reason why everyone took these things out of the cars in the first place ?? Quote
Young Ed Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 Chance there are plenty of them running around perfectly. You just don't hear about them. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 seems to me a mechanical problem. what kind of oil are you running in the transmission? Problem could be in the over running clutch if you are using the wrong oil.....my 2 cents worth....I have had the same issue with mine where it would not cut in when doing the same thing you did. however it did engage again with no problems...O/D's are so much fun........ Rick, What oil are you using? Jim Yergin Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 Is your battery fully charged and your charging system working correctly? Quote
1941Rick Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 Hi Jim......I am using Pennzoil 90w for yellow metal...can is out at the shop, will get the number from it in the next couple of days.... Quote
kevinanderson Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 only fuse is on fire wall. Its held in place by a brass cap/fuse holder. Take it out and ram some still wool in there. Twist it around with a small pocket screw driver till its shiney in there. Next take each connection off and buff the eyelet. Attatching screw /washer and screw mounting pad. I used a small brass "toothbrush" from the hardware store. Do all the top side connections before you drag your a under the car. And give it a test drive. If no good clean the connections under neath. If nothing, then you can start pulling covers and worrying about the weight of your oil. It quit working suddenly and with no obvious grinding, right? My plymouth worked fine for thousands of miles.After a night of cruising, The next day nothing. I thought oh crap. That damn OD. But read my trusty OD manual and looked like connection gremlins. Same thing happened on a friends 55 ford...poor fuse connection. And theyre right. You never hear about the ones that work right. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 (edited) Could be a solenoid issue-not pushing the pawl in... because it's (solenoid) faulty or no/weak power to it. Electrical trouble is the most common issue with the OD not engaging. I also manually engage the OD pawl ( remove the solenoid first) to test for proper OD operation-out of the car test. And if the rear case is out of oil- The OD won't function. The Planetary/sun gears will be seized up from lack of oil. A shop manual/ OD books for testing/maintaining are a excellent asset to have handy when owning one of these R-10 transmissions. They are very reliable transmissions. I've run them for over 30 years with little trouble. Bob Edited July 19, 2011 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
Young Ed Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 I'm with Kevin check those connections especially the fuse. The guy I got my 51 plymouth from told me he'd had trouble with that fuse holder a bunch. He'd been putting some sort of chemical for model train tracks on the fuse holder to help with the connection. Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 My new problem is a little hang up with the overdrive not engaging. It first started a couple months back with it not engaging without a few attemps of letting off the accelerator until it kicked in. Now, it won't even engage at all. Thanks,Darin I have doubts that it is a fuse issue as you mentioned that the problem first started with sluggish shifting but it would engage after a few attempts. If it were a fuse it would not shift at all and a fuse once blown must be replaced. Forum member Richie Hodge has a similar problem when his generator was not charging fully. It would shift OK until the battery voltage dropped and then it would not shift at all. He repaired the generator and the overdrive once again worked fine. Quote
greg g Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 along that same line, make sure all your electrical connections associated withthe OD are clean and tight. assure the electrical parts of the system are working as they should. Based on what you said if it seem like it wants to work then it probaly will with some attention to the details Quote
meadowbrook Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 I am assuming you have the R10 or 11, right? I have an R7, which only needs electricity to kickdown. I did notice that after sitting over the winter, it did not engage on my 1st drive of the season, but after a few minutes it did and has been good ever since. Quote
47heaven Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Posted July 19, 2011 Don, the battery and the alternator are fairly new. So the charging system should be okay. I mean, nothing else seems to be affected from what I can tell. I had the alternator tested earlier this year when I though that might have been the cause of car stalling problem, and it tested great. Guys...as far as the what oil weight is in there...I have no idea because I had it put in when I had the car lubed last year. I mean, I can check and see if it's low, but I haven't noticed any leaking from it lately. I'm going to check the connections today and make sure nothing is lose or corroded before I come to the conlusion that it's more of an internal problem. I just had the solenoid replaced earlier this year with a supposedly good used one I ordered from in San Diego. When I had it tested before it was installed, I was told it was working great. I really hoping that it's not that because it cost me $80. What are the signs of a malfunctioning govenor switch? Quote
1941Rick Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 If your govenor is faulty it will either not engage or will be erratic engaging at diffeerent speeds.....i would check to see what oil was used when you had it topped up.... Quote
kevinanderson Posted July 20, 2011 Report Posted July 20, 2011 Guys. If we are talking current out put thru the charging system, wouldnt corroded connections compromise circuit operations too? Quote
Richie Hodge Posted July 20, 2011 Report Posted July 20, 2011 I have doubts that it is a fuse issue as you mentioned that the problem first started with sluggish shifting but it would engage after a few attempts. If it were a fuse it would not shift at all and a fuse once blown must be replaced. Forum member Richie Hodge has a similar problem when his generator was not charging fully. It would shift OK until the battery voltage dropped and then it would not shift at all. He repaired the generator and the overdrive once again worked fine. Don, you have an excellent memory. You are correct, the charging system needs to be working properly. That was the only issue I had with the overdrive trans once it was installed and the bugs worked out of it. I drove the car for several years without any problems. The guy that owns it now loves it and has had no problems. I followed George Asche's directions with the exception of the kickdown switch, which I removed. I used 15-40 synthetic oil in it per George. I never had a problem with either mechanical or electrical once the installation was complete. The reason I removed the kickdown switch was my brother Bob and I were racing each other down in FL. and he went into 2nd overdrive and put the pedal to the metal and it kicked down. I'm not sure what rpm he hit be I wasn't taking any chances with mine. I drove my car a lot harder than my brother drove his I promise you !! I just bought another overdrive trans that I will put in my P20 within the next week or so. The terminals do have to be clean and tight. I wouldn't want to drive the interstates without overdrive, its like a different car when you can cruise at 70 plus all day. My first long trip with the OD was over 2,000 miles in a week, and 804 miles the first day, so you can really drive at 70 plus all day. Richie. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 20, 2011 Report Posted July 20, 2011 If you are using the original MoPar relay, that is a common problem. The points in it or the fuse don't make good contact. Take it apart and clean the contacts. Quote
47heaven Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Posted July 21, 2011 Won't be able to get into trouble shooting until tomorrow, but I did do some looking around and I noticed that the plunger that usually sticks out of the kickdown switch was stuck inside the housing. So I freed it up and put som white grease on it so that it wouldn't stick anymore. I thought maybe that was the problem. So I took the car for a spin and tried the O/D and nothing. (The overdrive will freewheel when engaged, but not kick in, nor make any sound like it wants to). So the hung up kickdown switch is off the list of possibilities, I guess I don't see any relay on the firewall, but there is something on the side wall that I assume is the relay because a purple wire that goes from it goes to the O/D system either the coil or the kickdown switch, from what I can tell. (see pic). This object looks pretty old and I'm sure is the original, whatever it may be. The purple wire you see in the pics is what seems to be the color wire used for connecting the O/D to the relay, kickdown and coil. Also looked under the car at the overdrive and saw where the purple wire connected onto the solenoid. It looked pretty oily down there, which is mainly coming from my oil filter because the gasket ring doesn't fit the best. The connections feel tight, but I will go down there tomorrow and clean things up, as well as the connections. Maybe the oil has worked it's way in between the connections. BTW, if that is the relay I have pictured, how does it come apart? It looks like a sealed unit. Would it be better to buy a new one? Quote
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