Easiest Question in Years! Valve lifters and settings

[hockeye1757]

Hello Guys! Are you ready for this?

My mechanic doesn't want to dig into the engine unless he gets confirmation that the valve lifters are SOLID. They are, right?

And how about valve clearances. I am stuck at the office and do not have my manuals about me-- would like to get info to him ASAP.

He has a little bit of a case. He worked on my 51 Packard 300 which, as he found out, has hydraulic lifters which the more pedestrian models did not have.

Best to you, and hope someone with a manual is out there.

This is for "Uncle Ernie", my 46 Dodge Buisnessman's Coupe. I can just see it so many years ago, with a turtle full of vacuum cleaners and a hot shot salesman travelling the Great Southwest.....

Steve Davis

Holdenville OK

[Joe Flanagan]

According to my manual, cold setting for exhaust is .013. Cold for intake is .010. Measured hot, both clearances should be about .010. I have seen varying numbers from different sources, though.

[Alshere59]

Lifters? Not sure an L6 would have what you call lifters. My manual calls them in order the "valve mechanism = Valves, Valve seats or inserts, valve guides, valve springs, tappets and tappet guides". So what happens if he can't find either solid or hydraulic?

The tappets are solid if that will work for him/her.

Edited April 26, 2011 by Alshere59

[Don Coatney]

If your mechanic has to ask that question I would find another mechanic.

[Alshere59]

:eek:I would be worried more if he asked about rocker arms.

[Big_John]

If your mechanic has to ask that question I would find another mechanic.

x2.

[P-12 Tommy]

x3

Tom

[Tom Skinner]

Ditto x4 in modern terms:

u need a new mechanic

[Niel Hoback]

Thats got my vote too, he's not qualified to play with your toys. I don't see what difference that could make anyway.

[T120]

Hey Steve,Welcome to the forum.Nice to have a 46 Dodge business coupe,a desirable model.What is the general condition of the car?I gather it required a check over and that is the reason it's being serviced.Any history or photos of your car?

[kbuhagiar]

X5 - ditto ditto - are you sure you want this guy working on your car?

By the way, welcome to the Forum!

[james curl]

I am no mechanic but I have picked up Motors Manuals for all cars from early thirties to mid seventies to answer any question that might arise with myself and my friends. If I worked on Old Cars for a living I surly would have bought all of the old Motors Manuals that I could find at the swap meets for reference. They are part of your tool box so to speak, you cannot work with out them. As the others have said you need to find another mechanic.

[Fluid drive]

Hockeye:

The usual HOTsetting is .008" intake and .010"exhaust. We always gave the exhaust valves an extra .001" for hi way use. Now, on to another very important matter; valve clearance on those L heads MUST be set at normal operating temperature while the engine is running!!!! Do NOT let anyone tell you that it is OK to set those clearances any other way. Clearances in the siamese cast mopar engines will vary because of inequal heat distortion in the engine when it is operating so that cold settings are not accureate for extended operation. A set of 'go and no go' gauges and long lifter wrenches are helpful. In all probability this is a job you could do yourself. I willl gladly give you more instructions if you need them.

Fluid Drive

[Joe Flanagan]

Merle Coggins has posted a video showing how it's done. Very helpful. I think it's under Technical Tips.

[Jim Saraceno]

The usual HOTsetting is .008" intake and .010"exhaust.

My manual ('46-'54) says .010" for both.

[Don Coatney]

Hockeye:

The usual HOTsetting is .008" intake and .010"exhaust. We always gave the exhaust valves an extra .001" for hi way use. Now, on to another very important matter; valve clearance on those L heads MUST be set at normal operating temperature while the engine is running!!!! Do NOT let anyone tell you that it is OK to set those clearances any other way. Clearances in the siamese cast mopar engines will vary because of inequal heat distortion in the engine when it is operating so that cold settings are not accureate for extended operation. A set of 'go and no go' gauges and long lifter wrenches are helpful. In all probability this is a job you could do yourself. I willl gladly give you more instructions if you need them.

Fluid Drive

At the recommendation of my cam grinder I set both the intake and exhaust on my engine at .014" cold. I did this over 40,000 miles ago and I have not touched them sence doing this.

[Fluid drive]

You are an unusually blessed man Don!

F D

[Young Ed]

At the recommendation of my cam grinder I set both the intake and exhaust on my engine at .014" cold. I did this over 40,000 miles ago and I have not touched them sence doing this.

Don same here. My engine builder set my valves and I haven't touched them. I only have about 15K miles on mine though.

[aero3113]

Don same here. My engine builder set my valves and I haven't touched them. I only have about 15K miles on mine though.

Same here with about 300 miles on the rebuild

[Joe Flanagan]

I set mine cold at .010 intake and .013 exhaust, then ran it until it got up to operating temperature. Then I removed the valve covers and checked them all while the engine was running. Only one needed adjustment and they all were at .010.

[Cpt.Fred]

since i have to set mine right now after the grinding and will not

be able to set them with engine running (nor hot) any more due to the

new headers blocking my way to the valve covers, i will go for 0.014"

as well.

i adjusted while running last year, .006" intake and .008" exhaust according to my manual,

and it seemed to be fine, but i can't help thinking it was a bit too tight maybe.

i prefer a little noise rather than burnt valves.

the tube headers might heat things up a bit.

[dirty dan]

If your mechanic has to ask that question I would find another mechanic.

That's the first thing that came to my mind.