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Posted

Hi I am new to the forum. I have recently got a 1949 Fargo, which I believe is a 3/4 ton I would like to put a newer style chasis under it. Does anyone have any ideas about what would fit or better yet has anyone done this style before?I'm open to all suggestions. thanks very much

Posted

I think a newer Corvette chassy would work well after you extend it, widen it, raise it, etc. Would make a truck that handles much better than the original. What are your limitations? Cash? Knowledge? etc? Need a bit more information about you, your vehicle, your experiance, your objective, etc?

Posted
Hi I am new to the forum. I have recently got a 1949 Fargo, which I believe is a 3/4 ton I would like to put a newer style chasis under it. Does anyone have any ideas about what would fit or better yet has anyone done this style before?I'm open to all suggestions. thanks very much

Ya cash and experience are both limitations . It will be my first project I would like to have it on a newer truck frame. Maybe with a 318 or a cummins. I don't want a show stopper but I want to do it right. Create something that you could drive everyday I need it to be reliable, not break the bank and at a beginner body swap level if that's possible. Thanks again

Posted

As cash and experiance are your limitations I would suggest you first get your truck running and drivable. Then make decisions on what you want your final project to do for you. These trucks in there original condition can be a true pleasure to own and drive. Dont start by biting off more than you can chew. If you jump in head first your truck project will most likely be abandon and end up crushed. Do your best to not let that happen.

Posted

Jump over to the Pilot-House forum on this board and look for threads from "buds truck". He did a swap onto a Dakota chassis. It'll give you an idea what will be involved in a complete chassis swap. It's quite involved for a novice.

There's nothing unreliable about a stock chassis if repaired and maintained properly. I drove my truck from Waukesha, WI to Dayton, OH and back last summer with no issues what-so-ever.

Merle

Posted

I installed a larger 251 Chrysler 251 in my 52 1/2 ton along with a 3.0 rearend more than 10 years ago. It's always been reliable and can be driven on the freeway at 65 mph all day long.

Posted

Thanks everyone for the feed back. So maybe I should be leaving it on the original frame. But what about the 6 volt system should I upgrade it to 12? Also should I leave the split rims or upgrade them too? Then what rearend would be best if I leave the original engine in it can this all work I really have no idea where to start but I like the idea of leaving it on the original chassis probably more along my experience level. Thanks all suggestions are welcomed.

Posted

Um ya I'm not sure if it is a 3/4 ton for sure I just assumed it was with the 9 foot box and extra leafs. Maybe they aren't split rims I'm really quite lost with some of this. Sorry if I'm wasting your time but I do appreciate your time and help thanks.

Posted

With the 9' box I think that would make it a 1 ton and that would explain the split rims. You aren't wasting my time. I am ....cause I love these old Dodge trucks. Can you post some photos ? Welcome to the forum !

Posted

yep thats what it looks like. I attached some pictures of it let me know if you can see them to make sure i did it correctly. So i guess i have a 1 ton thank you for clearing that up. Should i just restore it on the original frame then ? I really have so many questions and no real direction in where im going. I would deffinatley appreciate anyone who knows these trucks, time to answer a few of them.

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Posted

i would highly recommend the 12 volt 1conversion, i did it myself and it works great! always fires right up! the only downfall is the FUGLY alternator and the little conversions here and there.

Posted

That's a nice looking truck Jaker110. I reckon that you should restore it on the original frame - change is the enemy! You are in the right place for having questions answered - post away!

the only downfall is the FUGLY alternator

You can avoid the 'fugly' alternator by installing an alternator in a generator case like this one pictured. They are a little pricey though.

Desotodav

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Posted

Well the motor in my truck says it's a t112 is this correct for a 49 the t112 is a 218 correct ? Also it is a splash lubrication system right ? So where is the oil filter? Bare with me I'm green to these older trucks. There is 2 slots in the floor for batteries but it's a 6 volt system what is that all about then? How easy is it to swap gears in the rear end and what would work? I want it to go a little quicker. Where can I get replacement parts for these trucks like brakes interior panels and so on? I don't want to overwhelm anybody with all these questions so il leave it at that for now. As you can see I need alot of guidance with this so thanks again.

Posted

Don't be afraid to ask questions, it's a great way to learn. You can also use the search feature of this forum and so a little reading to find some answers.

The US built 1 ton trucks used the 23" block 230 CID engine, whereas the Canadian built trucks used the 25" block with a similar displacement. You can use this decoder to find a little info on your truck. Just enter your serial number see what it has to say, http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php

There have been some good threads on disc brake upgrades to the front. The 1 ton's can be a bit more challenging but can be done with a spindle swap. And you might be able to swap out the whole rear axle with something more modern to get a better highway gear. Otherwise I believe the 4.1 and 4.3 diffs were normal on that truck.

Parts can be found at Napa or other parts stores as well as Roberts Motor Parts http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/index.html or Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts http://www.oldmoparts.com/Default.htm (some have had issues with Andy but others like his stuff), or Rock Auto http://www.rockauto.com/ Also look at Vintage Power Wagons http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/ Their stuff is primarily for the 4WD Power Wagons but a lot of it crosses over to out 2WD models.

I got my interior from Quiet Ride Solutions and have been very pleased with it. http://www.quietride.com/index.html See my thread on the topic here http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=13189&highlight=interiors There are others out there, such as from Roberts. Or Reg Evans will sell you patterns to make your own panels.

You've got a nice looking truck there. Enjoy it.

Merle

Posted

Not all of the truck guys play over here on the P15-D24 side. You'll most likely get more truck related feedback on the Pilot-House side. Several members don't discriminate and participate on the whole board but not all.

Merle

Posted

i tend to venture over here for engine and electrical related issues, seeing as we share a similar engine. BTW: as far as i know, all mopar flatheads were full pressure oil.

Posted

Hey thanks for the help and the link to the decoder, my truck has a 228 in it, also I ordered a shop manual for it. So now should I replace old oil and flush rad before I try and get it going? I read in another thread I should also take oil pan off clean any sludge out is this correct too? Any other pointers or things I should be doing before I fire it up? Thanks

Posted

Nice truck.If the truck has been sitting idle for some time,might be an idea to drain any fuel remaining in the tank and clean the tank

Posted
Hey thanks for the help and the link to the decoder, my truck has a 228 in it, Thanks

In an earlier post you said your truck engine was a T112. That would make it a 218 from a 41-47 1/2 ton.

Posted

Jake, nice truck, mopars don't have splash lube, we have a real oil system, the oil pump is on the pass side below the carby, behind the fuel pump, has a plate with 6 small bolts, the oil filter as has been mentioned is inside that canister, get a new filter, drain the oil & get it running, as for a 12volt conversion, any mid 50's side valve six starter thats from a 12 volt car should bolt in tho' your starter mechanism may need changing, ie the solenoid/starter circuit might have to be updated also use a 12 volt mopar generator, change the globes in all the lights, head,tail,stop, blinkers,instrument & interior lights and put a voltage drop on the fuel guage circuit, also change the coil to a 12 volts one & everything else should be fine...the amp guage reads amps, not volts, and the water & oil guages should be mechanical with no electric connections.........note also that you should measure the length of your engine to be 100% certain which it is........23" or 25" the 228 version is in the 25" long series, not to be confused with the 230 from the 23" long series, this is important when or if you need to get any engine parts that are affected by the length, ie, intake/exhaust manifolds, cylinder head, pistons , water tube..........also get hold of a workshop manual, even a car one would be a big help regarding engine parts..........anyway welcome to the best mopar 6 site on thenet........regards from sunny Sth Grafton NSW, Australia...Andy Douglas

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