Valve adjustment....1948 1/2 ton

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

Okay, it’s my first time adjusting valves on my 1948 ½ ton. I took off the side covers and noticed that all the springs touched the valve tappets except one. Can anyone tell me if this is normal or if I may still have a stuck valve? Please forgive me, I know this might be a common sense answer for most who have engine experience ( I have not rebuilt an engine as of yet). If it is a stuck valve, what can be done to fix it without a rebuild?

Thanks!!!!!!!

Dan

[martybose]

I think we need more information. Does the end of the valve that isn't hitting appear to be higher up in the block than the rest, which could indicate a stuck valve. Or does it seem to be the same height as the rest; this could be something as simple as a valve adjustment to an indication of a badly worn cam lobe.

Marty

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

Hi Marty,

It seems like it is the same as the rest....

Thanks

[bob westphal]

Its been awhile since I adjusted the valves on one of these engines but if my memory is intact, I think the valve spring keeper is quite close to the end of the valve stem. To the untrained eye it might look like the spring is touching the tappet but it isn't. There is a special washer that holds the spring and centers the spring on the stem with conical keepers. Go ahead and adust them.

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

It looks like on that one the spring is up higher. The valve tappet is in the same progression as the others. The distance of the spring to tappet on the different one is about ¾” (space between). None of the others look like that. Must be something funky with that one.

[Plymouthy Adams]

could be a replacement valve somewhere in it's past with a different retainer for the spring making it appear to be a bit off the tappet in comparison...the real thing of importance is the valve sealing and the correct lash between the lifter and valve when hot..the keeper if a tad higher on this profile valve compared to the rest would mean a bit more tenion on the spring but should not have any direct effect on the engine as this would be slight difference at best. IMHO

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

Thanks Tim

Here is a pic of what I was saying. When I go to adjust the valves, how will I measure since there is such a great space?

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

Okay....

What might be the best method to unstick the sucker?

Thanks for the info!!

[Reg Evans]

Remove the head and squirt some penetrand down the valve stem. Wait for a while and then tap it gently with a mallet.

[Plymouthy Adams]

picture is worth a thousand words..you will need a very good penetrating oil...lube it liberally..lube it oftern..as it soaks hopeflly it will let loose..if you have to encourage it..be use to do so equally on both side of the retainer as you pry down...do not damage valve stem or guide..you may also be able to push it up just a tad higher and get it to start moving..

If you have a good electric heater like for stripping paint, shrinking solder ferrules...this may help also...

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

I think I will soak it the best I can first. How much is too much Marvel? Is it necessary to change the oil again? I did dump some Marvel down the carb when running and warm. Would this still be helpful? Maybe I could tap the bottom of the spring once warm too, like you said Tim.

I'm sure it will run much better once unstuck.

Dan

[Plymouthy Adams]

If..........you can bend yourself a small tube and get it intothe spark plug hole and angled toward the open vlave..you may be able to fill the pocket enough with penetrating oil to helpf lube from both side and be a bit quicker to free the stem.. You can put some firm pressure on the valve spring retainer IF you keep it 180 and equal...this will help prevent bending the valve..as it is stuck in upward position the high lift is alread obtained and the possibility of a lot of rust is thus increased...take your time..you may get it without pulling the head...

[Plymouthy Adams]

Shel..like minds on the tube....lol

[Normspeed]

Shel, I have a 3-in-1 oiler just like that.

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

I took an old pointed spout ketchup bottle and attached some tubing from my fish tank stuff. I think it works great! I'm letting it soak for a bit before I start it again.

[rearview]

sheesh.. some people put ketchup on anything

Hope you have success without tearing the head off. My small generator had a valve stuck last time I used it... had to rip the head off at 2am and whack it with a hammer (ok... I used a rock) Been working good ever since.

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

I guess pulling off the head is not that big of deal, if I end up having to do so. I think I might have some nice size rocks around the house, lol...

I guess that idea comes from the saying "If that doesn't work get a bigger hammer"

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

So the position the spring is in on this stuck valve is actually adding tension? If the penetrating oil starts to work, then it might just release with the tension of the spring itself?

I have been soaking it, then running it etc. I put a whole bottle of penetrating oil there.

I was trying to think of a tool that might work in pulling down on the retainer without damage. Maybe some channel locks and some pressure with light wiggling. Any tool ideas?

[grey beard]

I'm sorry to sound pessimistic, but the truth of the matter is that the tighter that valve is stuck, the more likely it is to have been damaged. Valves only cool when they are closed, or seated. When they are held open - even for a short time - by a piece of carbon, they often burn. This means that even if you are able to get it to close, you may still need to R and R the head to replade the valve.

Bottom line is that there's little to lose banging around through the plug hole because the tighter that valve stem is stuck, the more likely it is to also be burned. Good news is that the valves are cheap - cost less than the new head gasket. Go fugure . . .

[greg g]

I had 3 stuck valves, I removed the head, and with an assistant turning the engine over with the starter, I played "whack a mole" with my rubber mallet. After a few well places whacks the valves began to retreat to the closed position on their own. Fear??? Perhaps, but a few whacks seemed to dislodge whatever was holding them in place, and they were fine after that.

One issue to check on an experienced engine is to look at the top of the tappet, some may be cupped or indented on top where they contact the valve. If so they will not give a true adjustment as the feeler gauve will ride on the highspots while the valvle will ride i the depression. If that is the case, they need to be removed and flattened for a true adjustment.

[Guest fordodgeconnections]

Hey thanks to all for your help with the stuck valve. I'm happy to say I got it unstuck today. A 15" pry bar and a big smack with a hammer did it. I was also able to get the old junky, homemade steak bed off today as well. My daughter was very happy that I was able to go put a full tank of gas in it too (here is a pic of how happy she was). Wow, my first time driving it was a blast. I can't say it runs the best (still a bit of smoke) but it runs none the less.

Dan

[Normspeed]

Looks like 100% fun to me.

[jgreg53]

My p15 has a hard knock when idling could be wrong but I don't think it's a valve.any ideas. It's been there since I got the car.  Hasn't hurt anything so far.

[Sniper]

You resurrected a 15 year old thread?  A compression test will tell you if it is a valve hung open.  If it is, brake fluid is the best valve freer upper I have found in my testing.  Assuming it's carbon holding it open and not something bent.