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Posted

I am trying to remove the chrome full horn ring from my '51 B3C. I understand from posts found with the search function that it should turn CCW and pop off. So far that has not worked and I am reluctant to force it until it is confirmed that I am doing it correctly. Am I correct regarding the CCW direction? Should I force it? Advice appreciated. Thanks.

Posted

pushing it ALMOST all the way down, yes..it should be CCW....mine was a bit sticky on my 49 when I did it...I was worried it would break but it was fine...I did find that pushing it too hard down and it wouldn't move...try coming up just a bit, or using both thumbs instead of your palm

Posted

yah, ya gotta play with it a little bit, once you find the sweet spot, it'll be super easy!

Posted
yah, ya gotta play with it a little bit, once you find the sweet spot, it'll be super easy!

I played around with it another 15-20 min. with no luck. Then, my wife said "let me play with it" and 10 sec. later it popped off. I think I am going to turn this restoration over to her from now on. Thanks guys!!

Posted
I played around with it another 15-20 min. with no luck. Then, my wife said "let me play with it" and 10 sec. later it popped off. I think I am going to turn this restoration over to her from now on. Thanks guys!!

Now I know how my wife got it off so quickly. She rotated the ring CW. The bracket held under the steering wheel nut has three "dogs" (if that is the right term) that will only allow removal in the CW direction. Now I don't feel so stupid.

Posted
Now I know how my wife got it off so quickly. She rotated the ring CW. The bracket held under the steering wheel nut has three "dogs" (if that is the right term) that will only allow removal in the CW direction. Now I don't feel so stupid.

yah, I'm sure she will lord it over you for a little while:eek:

I honeslty can't remember which way mine turned...I just played with it and it popped off.

Posted

Well, how 'bout that. I just went and looked at my pictures and sure enough, clockwise is the key.

Mine was so rusty-crusty that I needed to drill a couple of small holes in the horn button and use a large snap-ring pliers like a spanner wrench to turn it. As just a button I couldn't get enough grip on it to turn it after it was pressed in. Once I had it apart I epoxied up the holes, sanded it smooth and repainted it.

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  • 10 months later...
Posted

Merle, got a picture of your finished steering wheel. Would be nice to see what others have done in their trucks. Lots of examples in the cars.

Posted
Merle, got a picture of your finished steering wheel. Would be nice to see what others have done in their trucks. Lots of examples in the cars.

Go look at your "Third Member / Pumpkin" thead where I posted a pic of my GPS vrs Speedo readings.

Posted

Merle, I took your suggestion, WOW that is a NICE finish. How did you do that. As soon as I have my insulation in, the wheel is next. VERY NICE!:)

Posted (edited)

I washed it to get any dirt and grime off of it, then scuffed it lightly with a Scotch Brite pad. I wiped it down with laquer thiner and let it dry good. I then primed it and painted it with the same Imron paint that I used on my bed.

Merle

Edited by Merle Coggins
Posted

I've got a can of "Durhams" wood filler. It include 'plastics' for filler so I'm going to use that. My cracks are not as severe as yours so should well. Merle's really looks great, but I don't have any imron (emron / ) paint, don't think it's even legal in CA anymore. Fruehoff [spelling] used it for years. One day one of their painters, in his early 20's dropped dead. They determined it was from the paint fumes!

Posted

My spokes are cracked right near the center hub. I thought about grinding them out and filling them in with some kind of epoxy, but I just left them alone and repainted it. You have to look pretty close to see them.

Merle

Posted
My spokes are cracked right near the center hub. I thought about grinding them out and filling them in with some kind of epoxy, but I just left them alone and repainted it. You have to look pretty close to see them.

Merle

I'm using the POR15 wheel repair kit, comes with everything but the final paint.

Posted

would do a good job. It's a two part epoxy and can be sanded. It's really strong stuff. I think my wheel could look a whole lot better.

My spokes are cracked right near the center hub. I thought about grinding them out and filling them in with some kind of epoxy, but I just left them alone and repainted it. You have to look pretty close to see them.

Merle

Hank :)

Posted

I am lucky that my "wheel" has no cracks. But it does need new paint. When I clean it I get this nasty black stuff on the rag. Guess I need to get off my lazy rearend and apply some paint.

Posted
I am lucky that my "wheel" has no cracks. But it does need new paint. When I clean it I get this nasty black stuff on the rag. Guess I need to get off my lazy rearend and apply some paint.

You're lucky thats the only time you get it. Before I painted mine my hands would be black after a drive when it was somewhat hot or humid out.

Posted
You're lucky thats the only time you get it. Before I painted mine my hands would be black after a drive when it was somewhat hot or humid out.

Exactly! When the air is dry, no problem, but moisture sure makes the material (Bakelite??) rub off. I've gotten in the habit of keeping a set of mechanix gloves in the truck for mornings when the wheel is "dirty".

I need to paint mine; it's been on the project list for some time now.

Posted (edited)

Working on mine. Ring cleaned up nicely, not like a total refinish but it will do. Steering wheel next.

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Edited by pflaming
Posted

For anyone wanting a quick or temporary fix regular old spray paint can be used without even removing the wheel.

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