theridgely Posted February 2, 2011 Report Posted February 2, 2011 I think the '50 Chrysler Windsor is absolutely beautiful. The front, the back, the interior, the whole thing! I'm not sure why, but I always have. And, it's a real hoot to drive. Congratulations! Quote
spitfire Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Posted February 3, 2011 Well, this is fun. I drained all the coolant, removed the radiator and ran fresh water through it, installed the new water pump, and added fresh coolant, but it overheats. It got all the way up to the "p" on the temp gauge, so I shut it off. The radiator was totally cold, while the engine was way too hot. I don't know if the new pump is bad, if there's a blockage in a passage, or if maybe the thermostat is plugged with something. I'm guessing that the pump isn't working. Just scared me a little is all. None of my cars have ever been over normal operating temperature. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 3, 2011 Report Posted February 3, 2011 Well, this is fun. I drained all the coolant, removed the radiator and ran fresh water through it, installed the new water pump, and added fresh coolant, but it overheats. It got all the way up to the "p" on the temp gauge, so I shut it off. The radiator was totally cold, while the engine was way too hot. I don't know if the new pump is bad, if there's a blockage in a passage, or if maybe the thermostat is plugged with something. I'm guessing that the pump isn't working. Just scared me a little is all. None of my cars have ever been over normal operating temperature. Did you re-install and tension the fan belt? Did you install the correct thermostat and install it correctly? Did you remember to fill the radiator after you re-installed it? Is the back plate on the new water pump you installed exactly like the back plate on the old water pump you removed? Is your engine set up for internal or external thermostat by-pass? Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted February 3, 2011 Report Posted February 3, 2011 All good questions, Don. I think there are certain styles or types of thermostats for these engines. I have a couple new ones sitting around, but not sure they are correct. Not sure how crucial that item is. Just a thought. Quote
spitfire Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Posted February 3, 2011 I retensioned the belt, filled everything properly, never removed the t stat ( don't have a new one yet or a gasket. This isn't my first water pump job. This one was easy when comparing it to the camaro. The back plate looked the same. I checked it before I installed it. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 3, 2011 Report Posted February 3, 2011 I'd put the stat in a pan of hot water and see if it opens before I did anything else. Quote
spitfire Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Posted February 3, 2011 The uppher hose is the "in" for the radiator, correct? With that logic, could I disconnect the upper hose to see if any fluid is coming out at all? Also, Don, how do I tell if I have an internal or external bypass? Im not sure how to tell. Thanks a bunch for the help. Quote
greg g Posted February 3, 2011 Report Posted February 3, 2011 Big cast iron fitting to hold the t stat and a short hose coming out of the front of it. Quote
martybose Posted February 3, 2011 Report Posted February 3, 2011 Big cast iron fitting to hold the t stat and a short hose coming out of the front of it. ... is an external bypass system. An internal bypass system will have a steel formed thermostat housing with no hose going forward to the water pump, and the front of the head will have a bump that lines up with a hole in the deck that is the bypass path into the waterpump. Marty Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 3, 2011 Report Posted February 3, 2011 Here are a couple pictures of the correct MoPar thermostat and rubber seal gasket assembly for a 50 Chrysler 6 or 8. Also shown is the housing the T-stat fits tightly into.Thermostat housing is sealed to the head with a normal paper gasket. Bob Quote
Young Ed Posted February 3, 2011 Report Posted February 3, 2011 Here are a couple pictures of the correct MoPar thermostat and rubber seal gasket assembly for a 50 Chrysler 6 or 8. Also shown is the housing the T-stat fits tightly into.Thermostat housing is sealed to the head with a normal paper gasket.Bob And from napa you can get a modern thermostat that includes an adaptor to replace that OEM assembly. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 3, 2011 Report Posted February 3, 2011 And from napa you can get a modern thermostat that includes an adaptor to replace that OEM assembly. Any pictures or part # of this Napa piece Ed ? It rally should be installed if OE isn't available. Bob Quote
Young Ed Posted February 3, 2011 Report Posted February 3, 2011 I believe its a THM 55 and 155 for 160° and 180° Quote
spitfire Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Posted February 5, 2011 Hey everyone. Very sorry for the late reply. All I've been doing is attempting to get the car going and then school. I ended up testing the thermostat, only to find that it was functional. So, I ended up pulling the new pump I installed and reinstalling the old one. Works like a charm. I think I will end up purchasing a rebuild kit for this pump in the future. For now, it works great. It just drips a small amount, not even enough to leave a puddle on the ground. It's a nice relief to see the temp gauge stay low! Maybe I will be able to do the points and the timing over the weekend! Does anyone know what could cause the clutch pedal to stick on a fluid drive? I've been bringing it back up with the side of my foot. Could the return springs be weak? Thanks again, everyone, for all the help you guys have given me. Quote
Andydodge Posted February 5, 2011 Report Posted February 5, 2011 Dan, the clutch pedal return spring may have seen better days or the pedal pivot bush could have some wear resulting in the pedal being slightly angled and scrapping against the floor pan hole.....my 41 Plymouth with a standard trans has an occaisonal problem like yours, the pedal sticks about 3/4 of the way up and it had me beat.........found the edge of the pedal arm against the newly fitted floorseal......used a squirt of WD40 on the seal edge where the pedal arm rides and its fine again.......andyd Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 5, 2011 Report Posted February 5, 2011 If it sticks down ony a couple of inches-Really lube up the clutch linkage well 1st. If that doesn't fix the problem then check for excessively worn clutch rod linkage pivot pins and pivot holes then onto improperly adjusted over center spring--You really need to to read about this in the factory shop manual. Quote
Roger the Dodger Posted February 5, 2011 Report Posted February 5, 2011 'I've never really tuned a carburetor, so I will have to do some reading on tuning it with a vacuum gauge, as you suggested. I have been meaning to do the points and the timing. Maybe that will be tomorrows project. Thanks a ton for the help'. Dan welcome to the Forum. Very nice car you have. Here is a link on how to use a vacuum gauge. I have found it very useful. Roger. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 5, 2011 Report Posted February 5, 2011 All of my clutch linkage eyelets and pins were egg-shaped. I welded up the holes and re-drilled them and replaced the pins. Adjusting the over center spring is tricky but can be done without the special templete. Quote
spitfire Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Posted February 7, 2011 Thank you everyone and thank you Don for all those pics. I will be checking it all out shortly. At least she runs really good! Quote
spitfire Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Posted February 7, 2011 Alright guys, so in all seriousness, with this old motor, is detergent oil a bad idea or an ok idea? I'd like to run it, but it would be terrible to risk destroying a good engine over it. I'm kind of thinking about Rotella... Quote
austinsailor Posted February 7, 2011 Report Posted February 7, 2011 I've used Rotella in several old motors I've brought back to life in the recent past. All smoked for a little while, but after an hour or two, smoothed out, no more smoke. First oil change or two were pretty dirty but it got cleaner. I think it cleans things out and is better. Just my opinion. Not to start a new argument, but the newest version of Rotella ( "J", I think) has a far smaller amount of the zinc additive than past versions. Some people think our flatheads don't care, some do. I bought a drum of the old version that still had the full amount to hold me for some time. Bottom line, my opinion is it will clean things out and it'll run cleaner, and will up compression by cleaning out the old gunk from rings. Quote
spitfire Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Posted February 8, 2011 Thanks austinsailor. I have a Tractor Supply Co. pretty close to me, so I ventured over there, as they have some "different" oils. I found this: http://www.tractorsupply.com/vehicle-maintenance-accessories/vehicle-lubricants-oil/motor-oil/shell-rotella-reg-sae-30-oil-1-gal--0830683 They also have 15w-40 and I think 10w-40 Rotella, but I kind of want to stay with what Chrysler originally specified, at least when it comes to weight. I'll have to buy two bottles at a time (unless I can find quarts somewhere else, maybe NAPA), which makes it a bit on the pricey side, but still not too bad, as I will be able to use the second bottle with the next oil change. Well, unless she burns it in between the changes . Does Rotella "T" have Zinc? Also, after reading about it on this site, I tried the water down the carb trick. It seems to have made a difference! The car seems to be really smooth and I think it may have freed up a couple horse power. You guys are for sure Gurus! Quote
austinsailor Posted February 8, 2011 Report Posted February 8, 2011 30 weight is what I use. I bought a drum, 55 gallons, for about $430. I seem to recall mine is CH, current is CJ. CH still had the old higher amounts of zinc, the CJ is less. There is a lot of controversy as to whether it matters in our old trucks. But, at under $8 a gallon and get the zinc, it was a simple choice for me. Quote
spitfire Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) Thanks. I think that's what I will go with when I do the oil (soon). Well, its a bit of a bummer, but my 61 year old car isn't perfect hahaha. It doesn't smoke under acceleration at all, but when decelerating from 55 mph, the car smokes. Not suprising though for a classic with 88k miles. The compression is 110 across the board, except for #3, which is closer to 100. The verdic is out on that one though, as I couldn't get a good, tight seal because the threads were kind of funny ( its hard to get that plug back into the hole). Oh well, I'm sure she has a few more miles in her until shes done. Ill happily rebuild her then, as long as I have the cash. At least she still carries 55 lbs of oil pressure! Edited February 8, 2011 by spitfire Quote
PatS.... Posted February 8, 2011 Report Posted February 8, 2011 Welcome. That Chrysler is in remarkable condition...even has the expensive floppy door handles. You have come to the right place for keeping it running well. These guys know their flatheads. I have a '49 Club Coupe, but it's nowhere near as nice as yours...it's in pieces Enjoy it...it will be memorable that's for sure. Quote
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