Alshere59 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) Hope your problems are solved. Keep us updated. Curious as to how they moved that much but as you had the vehicle a short time could be any thing the po did before. As to the question of why go to a newer style drive shaft for me it was the tearing of the boots on the old style and long term costs. That and I want to take mine cross country and I felt better about something I was more familiar with. The parts equaled most of the price for a new one. Almost 85% if I remember right. Your mileage may vary. Edited March 10, 2011 by Alshere59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) I have the ball and trunion system on my '53 Plymouth and my '38 Chrysler but my '48 Dodge D25 has the modern style joints in it from the factory. See picture. I have a '47 parts car with the same style modern u-joints. It would require changing the yoke out in the trans and differential but would be worth the effort. I am going to be pulling the driveshaft on the parts car once it warms up some more and the ground dries out some. If anyone is interested PM or email me. They will fit the P15 as the Canadian Dodge D25 is the same body, just different trim. I would like to sell the tranny and diff with the u-joints but I could be talked into trading yokes instead. I figure this is a nice option to rebuilding the ball and trunnion style, especially if the other housing is worn and needs replacing. Rockwood has the numbers for the actual modern u-joint replacement part if needed. I am also thinking the driveshaft may well fit my '53 Plymouth so I may swap it out that way. Time will tell. Edited March 10, 2011 by RobertKB Add picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 I have scann a picture of the miller tool C552. This was used along witht he adapter to push out the pin on the u joint and the pin tool in tehn turned around to push the pin back into the ball and this also centers the pin. I have one of these tools and also two pins. This was taken from the Miiler tool cat F-620. I have this catalog on a CD and anyone can have a copy for $12. This a great addition for your car since it shows the exact tools that were used to maintain your car or truck. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 The picture is too large in size but if you want a picture email me and I will send it to you. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) Those ball and trunnion pins are pressed in Extremely tight. You need a press to do them. The pin should be with in .002-004" side to side. If the pin moves in the shaft from use it probably will move again. A big drive line shop here in Seattle told me they won't install the B&T style because of some pins coming loose and causing vibration issues. I suppose 3M shaft lock or an equivalent might help to keep the pin in place. Bob Edited March 11, 2011 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIPJOBXX Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 My pin just slipped back and so I had a machinist drill two set screw hole in the trunnion and when I had the pin in the proper position I just screwed down the set screws and walla! No more movement!!! Simple and it only cost 40 dollars to have this done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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