Powder coating

[Don Coatney]

There are several recent threads on the use of powder coating various car parts. These parts range from starters to engine parts to transmissions. Powder coating technology was not available when these vintage vehicles were produced. The steel parts on these vintage vehicles are made of thick durable steel. I believe that if there were no oxygen barrier (paint or anything else) applied to most of these parts that they would still be usable long after most forum members have expired. So my question is why spend the money to powder coat parts that are not readily visible? I understand powder-coating things such as wheels that are exposed to the elements daily. But why powder coat things that are durable and not exposed? Opinions welcome.

[RobertKB]

I didn't use any powder coat when I restored my '38 Chrysler. Just used good durable paint under the hood, on the chassis, tranny & pumpkin, inside of roof, and the floor etc. I did go with base coat-clear coat on the body as I personally feel this is a big improvement over enamels when you have a car that is intended for driving but you want to keep shiny with the least amount of effort. I believe the maintenance is lower with a clear coat and easier to repair if needed. The '53 Plymouth I have has the original paint which looks great but does need waxing on a regular basis. My two Canadian cents worth.

[James_Douglas]

Don,

As you know I coated my oil pan and the bell housing. I did it to seal up the metal so that it would resist having oil and dust sick to it and make that gunk we all love so much.

When I am under the car a paper towel and it wipes clean as new without any effort.

James

[Plymouthy Adams]

This is one of the reason I do not like the word restoration..though the idea is to preserve and protect the metal for the future and make its appearance to be at it best for the present..the procedure is incorrect therefore outside the scope of restoration....sorry...again not to critize a mans work..only the descriptive word used...

[PatS....]

I didn't powder coat anything, but I did get a decent coat of paint on things that won't be seen, just to help keep it clean and to be able to see any leaks easier.

I may have powder coated, but that means taking things apart MORE. I'm not doing that. And a rattle can is only 9 bucks.

I DID get severely criticised for painting my transmission the wrong color and getting paint on the solenoid and governor!!! (they're the old ones...I have new)

As far as originality goes, whoever gets the car from my estate will be able to return it to "original" if they like .

[Plymouthy Adams]

Pat..whatever color you painted had to be correct as you own the car...just that it is not restored...lol I really perfer worlds like, refinished, repainted, reworked, freshened up, even rebuilt. In the past I worked certian peices of equipment for the government and the level of repair was dependent on the wording of the job. A restoration meant to return to NEW condition. I had a certian amount of listed wear parts that were replaced automatically, any other item out of spec was replaced. This went right on through to the insulation of the cabinet interior with new material and a correct color and matte paint. Operation specs were at as new and tested by an outside factor to ensure this standard has been met. This units was expected to serve another 3 years when completed. It was very rewarding work and the units when finished were superb. Overhaul was to return the unit to working order, operational specs met, only parts outside of tolerance was replaced, looks were not inportant. Lastly was the repair to work, (voyage repair) this job was to get a unit serviced/adjusted and brought to working order looks be damned. This was usually written to meet an emergency repair to the fleet in support of an operation where the unit could not come offline and go to the shop..most of these were serviced on the ship. As I did not care to work tight quarters for submarines, I was able to procure some extra items, these I would repair and service and in these times I would just swap out their unit for a quailty built unit and fix them later at my leisure. Other than voyage repairs, I rarely went to the boat.

[martybose]

As I stated in the other thread, i have used powdercoating on my car. I powdercoated the entire throttle linkage, after painting didn't last more than a year or so before it started rusting. After cutting off all of the excess material off of my Langdon carb adapters I powdercoated them gloss black, which along with the throttle linkage mount that is also powdercoated gloss black, the pivot blocks and lever arms that are anodized blue and the stainless steel pivot shaft, really looks good on top of my polished Edmunds manifold.

I also ceramic coated the exhaust headers and down pipe, after the carefully preped high temp paint job burned off in 4 years.

I'm not trying for an authentic restoration, I'm after a good looking engine compartment that doesn't requre a lot of maintenance. To each his own.

Marty

[bob westphal]

Don,

I use powder coating in some instances mainly because I have access to an Eastwood kit. It is easier to do than preping for paint in most instances and your part is ready to use as soon as it is cool enough to handle. The powder is priced at about the same price as a good quality paint. There is an untold array of colors available including chrome. You can coat your inner fenders and many small parts with a stock color and no one would know they were powder coated. You would know because they are so easy to keep clean.

For small parts all you need to cure the coating is your wife's oven. Contrary to popular lore there is no mess left in the oven if you use the same protection she does when she bakes a pie. The kit cost about $600 but powder coating equipment is available at lower prices even from Harbor Freight.

One other thing, I thought that the guys on this forum were drivers of their cars, not purists! Powder coating is a way that you can drive your finer jewel without worrying about keeping it clean. Just wipe it down with a damp cloth. Use 'em don't park 'em!

[morson82]

In a nutshell, it comes down to personal preference between paint and powder coating and what your definition of "restoration" means, and thats oaky. ( the whole tomato....tomatoe thing)

My 42 Dodge was not roadwarth as it was and I decided to restore it back to roadworthy condition. I'm not converting to 12v, disc brakes, power steering or anthing else and want my car to be as it was originally built. However, if by using a more advance and superior means of detailing/protecting those parts that are subjected to extreme conditions, then by all means, I'm for it. Lets face it, the only reason engines and other car parts are painted is to keep it looking nice and to stop corrosion, that is unless your driving a Delorean. I plan on keeping the colors as close to original as possible and am look forward to the ease of maintainence/cleaning of my undercarriage and engine compartment. I also am thinking of having my manifolds ceramic coated before I put everything back together. I still believe that I am restoring "Mary" and not just redoing, repainting or rebuilding her....just one mans opinion.

This site rocks!

Glenn /B]

[Guest 68mercury]

Marty,

since your looking for a great all around coating try out this gem I found it is called RustSeal I like it better than powder coating! It's tough and looks good and cleans up like a dream. Take a look I found it at www.cleanclassicautoparts.com

[grey beard]

Using your terminology, my Dodge B1B has a restored oil pan on a refurbished truck. That sound okay to you?

[Norm's Coupe]

Well, I covered all the bases on my coupe engine. I.......

1. I hooked the chain to the engine and hauled it over the fenders and front end of the car. Hence, I "OVERHAULED" the engine.

2. I then tore it down, replaced the innards, bored the block, etc. So......I "REBUILT" the engine.

3. I also cleaned the distributor, replaced points, rotor, etc. So........I "REFURBISHED" the distributor.

4. Prior to "Overhauling" the engine back into the coupe, I painted the engine. That "RESTORED" the beauty of the engine block.

:D :D

[Normspeed]

Have you used the silver rust seal? Just wondering how it would compare to silver powder coating on a bumper.

Marty,

since your looking for a great all around coating try out this gem I found it is called RustSeal I like it better than powder coating! It's tough and looks good and cleans up like a dream. Take a look I found it at www.cleanclassicautoparts.com

[Guest skypilot340]

This is one of the reason I do not like the word restoration..though the idea is to preserve and protect the metal for the future and make its appearance to be at it best for the present..the procedure is incorrect therefore outside the scope of restoration....sorry...again not to critize a mans work..only the descriptive word used...

its about the trucks, not the nit picky words ,,lets keep the hobby fun

and without stress.

[Don Coatney]

its about the trucks, not the nit picky words ,,lets keep the hobby fun

and without stress.

Skypilot340;

Unless the correct words are used it is difficult to understand the conversation. Restoration to me means returning something to its original condition. Powder coating anything on a 50+ year old vehicle is not restoration. You will find that this forum is very liberal and there are no rules everyone must follow when working on there vehicles. Sorry this thread stressed you out. This forum works as a stress reliever for me and it is fun.

[John Mulders]

Don,

and I thought you are not the stressy type

John

[Guest jtw3749c]

Won't last as long or be as durable and probably not near a shinny, unless you want it flat.

[Christopher]

I just try to fix um up, and drive um around.... ..Christopher.... ..

[RHDSP15C]

Powder coating - no way. You don't find the rust until it's too late.

[Guest 68mercury]

Have you used the silver rust seal? Just wondering how it would compare to silver powder coating on a bumper.

Yes I have used the silver RustSeal. You may not be happy with the inevitable color change from silver too an amber colored hue. But you can topcoat it with UV stabil paint in that tacky stage , put the silver you want over it then and you will always have a bright shinny silver bumper. If you are not concerned with the color change it will be a great coating, it will provide a better chip resistantance than powder coating. Also by putting the topcaot on it in the tacky stage it will fuse together with the Rustseal and give it a tighter bond . That is my experience with it.

[Normspeed]

Anyone know roughly what it would cost to have a bumper powder coated? I'm experimenting with bumper painting and if I see a look that fits well I might have it done more permanently.

Mine was so far gone and chroming so far in the future, last weekend I pulled it off, used a 1/4" drill and sanding disks to grind off the rust and the loose chrome, and to scuff the rest of the chrome for a better bite. Shot it in primer, sanded, re-primered. My original plan was to use Rustoleum Bright Coat metallic finish in chrome.. Bought a can, couldn't see any mention of indoor or outdoor use. Re-read the directions today and found the bad news, "bright coat finishes are not recommended for outdoor use." Dern it. Might use it anyway, although a few people who've seen it with the bumper off say they think a black bumper would look better. Hmmm, rattle cans are cheap and if I don't like the look, so is paint remover. Any opinions? I know I botched it for future chroming with all that disk sanding, but what the heck?

[Plymouthy Adams]

Actually in the past I have used DuPont Centari single stage enamel mix to the shade "Argent Silver"..now everyone has an argent silver but be sure to get the Mopar formula..by far it is the most relective..once mixed..you will see what I mean and the one pigment you would never guess would be in a silver paint mix...

here is the grill..He let me choose the paint scheme...chrome was a bit too expensive route for this truck..went, 2001 Chevy Victory Red, Argent silver and the basic 9000 black...dash got the same treatement..best part of the upgrade was the Chrysler steering column..man said he never saw a column go in and wire so easy...

[Normspeed]

Tim, that came out great!

I got impatient, was going to wait til next weekend to pick a color but decided to try the same color I used on my teardrop rims and my head bolt caps. Rustoleum black night metallic. I notice on the trailer rims, it's a fairly hard finish once cured. So here's how it came out. I also painted the bumper bolt heads to match but did not sand them, just cleaned, primered and topcoated. I'll let it cure this week and bolt 'er in next weekend.

[48Dodger]

I have motorcycle frames powdered....but never found a reason to use it for any of my automotive rebuilds. I say, try anything you want, and share what you discover. That's what hotrodders do right?

48D:cool:

[BobT-47P15]

I think the local guy quoted me $40 each to blast and powder coat these wire wheels. Seemed reasonable.