Engine Removal

[greg g]

Make sure the shop takes note of how the valve guides are arranged, the same guides are used for both intake and exhaust but one way up for one and the other way for the other.

[aero3113]

Make sure the shop takes note of how the valve guides are arranged, the same guides are used for both intake and exhaust but one way up for one and the other way for the other.

Yes, tapered end up for the intake guides and cupped end up for the exhaust guides.

[aero3113]

Here is a link to a great rebuild over on the H.A.M.B. He did a lot of work on the engine. Kind of left us hanging though,hope everything is ok.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315555

[aero3113]

I received my guides,valves,welch plug set and cam bearings from Vintage Power Wagons today. Gonna try and get them to the engine shop next week so he can install and ream the guides and install the cam bearings.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

The new cam bearing set came with 3 bearings (same size), is there supposed to be a 4th small bearing for the end of the cam shaft?

[Dodgeb4ya]

The new cam bearing set came with 3 bearings (same size), is there supposed to be a 4th small bearing for the end of the cam shaft?

All 3 cam bearings are different sizes. The 4th-rear cam bearing is machined in the block.

Bob

[Joe Flanagan]

That threw me too. Yep, last journal goes straight into the block.

[aero3113]

All 3 cam bearings are different sizes. The 4th-rear cam bearing is machined in the block.

Bob

I looked at them quick and didnt notice they were a different size. That's good to know about the 4th rear bearing. Thanks Bob and Joe.

[aero3113]

Has anyone used Bernbaum for bearings,pistons and rings(quality)? He is almost $200 cheaper than Vintage Power Wagons. I ordered a timing gear/chain set from him today and the guy that took my order was very nice.

[Joe Flanagan]

I just went through this myself. I bought a set of main bearings from Roberts a couple weeks ago. I did not go with VPW because the total for rods and mains was approaching $400. Roberts and Bernbaum were both about half the price. I wondered if maybe the cheaper items were also of a lesser quality but went ahead and bought them from Roberts just the same.

They came shrink-wrapped an unmarked. No indication whatsoever where they were made. I asked the guy on the phone if he knew where they were made and he did not know. The bearings were coated with a black paint of some kind, which I assume was meant to prevent surface rust. I cleaned the first two halves with solvent and the black paint washed right off, exposing a section of the bearing that was defective. It was almost as if whatever material is applied to the bearing surface (babbitt?) had not been completely applied and there was a rough exposed area. I called Roberts, notified them, and sent them back for a refund.

I've had nothing but good luck with Roberts but I think that in this case, you get what you pay for. I'd bite the bullet and go with VPW.

[Frank Elder]

They take products out of the made in china boxes and put them in generic packaging and the person who answered the phone isn't allowed to tell you that.

[aero3113]

They take products out of the made in china boxes and put them in generic packaging and the person who answered the phone isn't allowed to tell you that.

Who does VPW or Bernbaum?

[greg g]

Check out Terrell machine in texas. They are phone only, umber listed in the vendors list.

[Joe Flanagan]

I don't believe VPW or Terrill Machine do this but it seems Roberts does, at least, and probably Bernbaum too.

[aero3113]

I received my parts from Vintage Power wagons (motor mounts and valve springs) and Bernbaum (timing gears/chain set) today. You can see how bad my front motor mount was compared to the new one. I didn't think my gears were worn that bad but when I put the new chain on the new gears I was shocked at how snug they are supposed to mesh together.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

Merry Christmas everyone!!!

I just wanted to show you guys what Santa dropped off . I was very happy to see that it did not have the recessed cap like it showed on ebay. I test fit it on the car and the top 2 holes do not line up,no biggie will just drill new ones. Also, I found it a little strange that the drain was off centered,still no biggie. I'm very happy with it and cannot wait to get the car back on the road!

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[oldodge41]

That radiator is a thing of beauty!

[aero3113]

That radiator is a thing of beauty!

Thank you, I am thinking of painting it black (not the core) to keep the modern look hidden. I think if it is painted it will almost look like the original.

[RobertKB]

Thank you, I am thinking of painting it black (not the core) to keep the modern look hidden. I think if it is painted it will almost look like the original.

Nice radiator! Painting it black will make it look better under the hood. Nothing wrong with painting the core also as long as you use a matt paint. Radiator shops always paint repaired radiators black and have done all of my rads. Matt or semi-gloss dissipates the heater better than gloss black. No idea why but I have been told that by several sources.

[aero3113]

Nice radiator! Painting it black will make it look better under the hood. Nothing wrong with painting the core also as long as you use a matt paint. Radiator shops always paint repaired radiators black and have done all of my rads. Matt or semi-gloss dissipates the heater better than gloss black. No idea why but I have been told that by several sources.

I know they sell special radiator spray paint in the auto stores, I think I will use that.

[Niel Hoback]

I understand that part of the reason for painting the radiator is to keep road salt and chemicals from corroding the metal. how do you spell corroding?

[Don Coatney]

Matt or semi-gloss dissipates the heater better than gloss black. No idea why but I have been told that by several sources.

This issue has been discussed here before. But nobody has presented any documentation to prove or disprove this theory. Of course the paint manufacture will tell you to buy there special paint at there special price. I have always used the least expensive gloss black and I have never had a heat issue using this gloss paint.

[Don Coatney]

From Eastwood site:

Eastwood Radiator Black Paint

Standard engine paints are too thick for radiator use because they can interfere with heat transfer and block air flow between the cooling fins.

Shel;

That is exactly my point. No proof! No documents with a quantitive study! How much air flow do they actually block? How much heat transfer is actually lost?

Only the sellers statment indicating buy my product to eliminate the problems that may or may not exist. Buy 2 cans!

[cwcars88]

for my 2 cents, I have Eastwood rad paint on one of my street rods still looking good after 10 years. If you have to buy paint any way why not give it a try. They have some good products.

[Big_John]

As it was explained to me many years ago by a radiator repair shop owner, true radiator paint is an tar based paint that goes on very thin. He also cautioned against using enamel paint as it did not transfer heat as well as the thin radiator paint.

That said, I have painted radiators with enamel paint (although very thin coating on the fins) with no noticeable effect.