Newer model distributor will not fit on my 42 Dodge

[JIPJOBXX]

Well after trying to make the 1953 distributor assembly work on my 1942 Dodge I just gave up and rebuilding my 42 distributor. The reason I wanted a new distributor assembly was to have internal parts more accesseble at my local parts store. And also the distributor plate on my dodge is just plain old and worn out. So I guess I will just haft to go on E-bay and buy an old stock plate with points and condenser. So thanks for all the info and now we all know that these distributors from the early 40's to the mid fiftys are not configured the same to fit up. Jon

[Young Ed]

It should fit. I've got a 51-52 plymouth distributor in my 48. I think I had to flip over the mounting plate on the bottom.

[Don Coatney]

Is this the third or fourth thread on the same subject? I have lost track of all the good responses and suggestions on how to correct this problem due to all the new threads started about the same subject. Sure would be nice to keep the information all together in one thread.

[Don Coatney]

It should fit. I've got a 51-52 plymouth distributor in my 48. I think I had to flip over the mounting plate on the bottom.

Ed;

You are correct. A newer distributor will work in an older engine.

[Andydodge]

Don & Ed, I agree, the whole dissy will swap, but trying to swap internals may not.............Jon, are you trying to swap internals or whole dissy?............I have a Langdon HEI on my 1941 Plymouth 201 six, it fits straight in & runs well .......andyd

[Mustang6147]

I have a good distributor out of my 41 plymouth. It had a 40 dodge truck 230 in it. I switched it out for a Landons mini HEI.

I have the distributor which is good, if you are intrested.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Oil Pump position might have to be changed a bit and the base plate swapped to fit the later ply distributor Vacuum advance and housing so all clears the block ect.

Bob

[JIPJOBXX]

I guess I will haft to take a picture of the difference-Jon

[JIPJOBXX]

Ok on the left is a 1953 Dodge distributor and on the right is a 1942 Dodge disributor.

Notice the places where the fastner attaches to the dissy one is located at about 10 oclock position (1953) and the one on the right at the 4 oclock position (1942). Now this seems a simple matter of installation but the 42 engine has the trottle leakage on the side of the block and the 48 and above had the linkage bolted to the top of the block. This is where part of the problem starts no room to place complete 53 distributor into recessed area where the distributor sits. Also the oiler on the 53 sits on the bottom at the 12 oclock position and the 42 sits at 9 oclock. With the leakage in the way and that peice of casting that is on my block (previous picture) I tried to fit that distributor every which way, with no success.

Also notice that I modified my dizzy to try and make the dizzzy work with my block (no sucess).

So believe me I spent more than a couple of hours trying to fit this new distributor on my block but never had any success. If the base of the new distributor had the same locations for bolting in place and the oiler was in the same place than yes it would work. But it doesn't! end of discussion. Big difference in the 48 engine and mine is the location of the gas linkage and that casting on the block. Jon

PS. I'm in the process of waiting for a new distributor plate made for my 42 and that will resolve this issue. Anyone want to buy a nice 48 or latter distributor?????

Edited September 15, 2010 by JIPJOBXX

[Jerry Roberts]

You can grind off that piece of casting on the block . I did it to mine . Sometime later I found a NOS distributer and that extra bit of casting didn't mater anyway .

[JIPJOBXX]

Thanks for the info and sent you a message oft line-Jon

[aero3113]

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=23704

[JIPJOBXX]

I have installed my new old stock points and have set the timing. The problem now is that I have a neat little fixture that goes on the spark plug cables to see if there is power going from the distributor to the spark plugs. Well I noticed that I can get a good spark from the main coil wire when the points close but if I close the cap and set this spark plug cable device on number one plug I notice that I'm not getting hardly any spark to the plug. I have checked the cap and the rotor and there in good shape. Also the wiring is new so I kind of think it might be the coil?? Is some place else I should be looking to see if I might be getting a ground effect on the rotor? Like I said before I can get a nice spark if I ground out the coil but when I install the coil wire into the cap and then rotate the rotor by hand just a bit to cause the points to ground than I notice that my lead spark plug wire has a very light spark and that tester doesn't show a nice spark. Need answer? This coil is fairly new but it was sort of a cheap one to begin with. Thanks Jon

I followed Don advice about the proper way to time this engine but now I'm not getting any good spark at the spark plug. Great spark to rotor but nex to nothing at the spark plug. What gives???

Edited September 19, 2010 by JIPJOBXX

[JIPJOBXX]

I feel like i'm running in circles! I went and bought a new coil but befor I took the old one out I decided just to test the old one again one more time! And now its getting great spark from the rotor to number 1 plug. Go figure but I might just have a ghost at work here. Anyway back to trying to start up the dodge tomorrow. Don I have the points closing at top dead center for number 1 cyclinder. I have taken out that inspection plug out and used a wire to make sure the number six piston is dead nuts (Top). So it should fire up! fireing order is set, points, plugs, rotor ok, cap ok-fire away!!!

[greg g]

points are supposed to open, at TDC which collapses the magnetic field in the coil causing the spark to discharge. Points remain closed on the flat part of the dizzy cam. It is during the time the points are closed that the spark builds in the coil, to be released when the points open and the ground changes from the closed points to the gap at the spark plug. You points should be just opening as the piston comes up to TDC.

[P-12 Tommy]

He fixed it.