generator - last request

[DLK]

I have posted a number of times on my ongoing charging issues and swore I would not provide any more evidence of my electrical ineptitude. However having tried two rebuilt generators and three voltage regulators I think I have a troubleshooting hint that may help someone identify my problem.

All along since putting in the first generator I have had a problem where eventually (it could be 2 miles it could be 70) the car would stop charging. It has prevented me driving at night and kept me away from numerous club events and shows this summer.

Having tried a second rebuilt generator and having the same issue I ran a jumper wire from the field terminal on the generator to the block. The generator immediately started charging. I took the car for about a 4 mile drive and before turning in my driveway it stopped charging again. I ran the jumper wire again and bingo it is charging (for how long I don't know).

I already have a ground wire from the generator to the voltage regulator so that can't be the issue. Could anyone offer any theory about what is going on? Just email me if you are tired of responding to me on the forum. thanks

[aero3113]

There should be a ground going to the block.

[Big_John]

It sounds like the problem isn't in the generator.

I would double check the wiring first. I assume the polarity is correct (positive ground) and connections to the battery are clean and tight. Wiring needs to be in good condition, and of course, connected correctly. Good ground connections to the engine block, body and good ground to the generator through the mount are also necessary.

That said... are you checking voltage when it stops charging? Does it start charging again? What is the voltage when its charging? Turn on all the lights and check voltage too.

I'm betting the problem is in the wiring or possibly even the ammeter itself.

[55 Fargo]

It sounds like the problem isn't in the generator.

I would double check the wiring first. I assume the polarity is correct (positive ground) and connections to the battery are clean and tight. Wiring needs to be in good condition, and of course, connected correctly. Good ground connections to the engine block, body and good ground to the generator through the mount are also necessary.

That said... are you checking voltage when it stops charging? Does it start charging again? What is the voltage when its charging? Turn on all the lights and check voltage too.

I'm betting the problem is in the wiring or possibly even the ammeter itself.

I was also thinking connections, bad or shorted wire(ing), or the gauge itself, or some bad contact.

I have been very lucky with my genny and voltage reg.

But if either of these items go, I would seriously consider puttin in a GM single wire alternator, converted to 6 volt pos grnd, these can be made at any decent auto electric shop. Usually around $100.00 for a 35 amp alt.

With this set-up, you can eliminate the voltage reg.

Fabbing a bracket for the existing genny mount is quite easy too.........Fred

[Eneto-55]

Big John's comment about your problem possibly being caused by the ammeter reminds me of a friend's 68 Newport years ago - he would pull up at a stop light, and it would die, and the electrical system was dead. He finally discovered that if he honked the horn it would start again. The problem was a bad connection in the ammeter. When he honked the horn, it sent enough current through the ammeter that it "welded" the contact together again, and then it would run fine until it worked loose again.

[Big_John]

Big John's comment about your problem possibly being caused by the ammeter reminds me of a friend's 68 Newport years ago - he would pull up at a stop light, and it would die, and the electrical system was dead. He finally discovered that if he honked the horn it would start again. The problem was a bad connection in the ammeter. When he honked the horn, it sent enough current through the ammeter that it "welded" the contact together again, and then it would run fine until it worked loose again.

Yep, sixites and early seventies Mopar had "issues" with ammeters sometimes. The problem was they ran so much current through the wiring going to and coming from the ammeter it was bound to cause problems. Where the bulkhead connection went through the firewall could be especially troublesome. Taxi's and cop cars got the bulkhead connection hard wired. Bypassing the ammeter and installing a voltmeter is a good upgrade for those cars.

I remember a friend's '74 Charger I borrowed once. It quit on me about 100 miles from home. I banged on the dash in frustration and the car came back to life.

[TodFitch]

Yep, sixites and early seventies Mopar had "issues" with ammeters sometimes. The problem was they ran so much current through the wiring going to and coming from the ammeter it was bound to cause problems. Where the bulkhead connection went through the firewall could be especially troublesome. Taxi's and cop cars got the bulkhead connection hard wired. Bypassing the ammeter and installing a voltmeter is a good upgrade for those cars.

I remember a friend's '74 Charger I borrowed once. It quit on me about 100 miles from home. I banged on the dash in frustration and the car came back to life.

The "solved" that by the time my 1982 Plymouth was built: The ammeter was on a shunt circuit with most of the current bypassed. Unfortunately the contacts on the flex circuit on the back of the instrument panel were prone to corrosion as they weren't plated. And a little bit of resistance there meant that the ammeter would never budge from zero. So you could have, say, a bad alternator and never know your battery wasn't getting charged until everything died on you. The solution to that is to install voltmeter too.

[DLK]

I actually took the car to a club outing and put 78 miles on it yesterday. The aggravation continued. It charged all the way to our first stop (21 miles) then worked intermittently for the rest of the trip. Someone in the local Plymouth club also brought up the ammeter which I guess I should have considered.

I am going to redo all the ammeter connections and see if I can do a voltage test as well. At least with two gennys and three voltage regulators I will have extras to carry in the trunk although I could have used that money in other places.

I wish I had made the pos-alternator switch but with $225 in two rebuilt generators it seems kind of late for that.

[greg g]

How about going to a parts store, buyig an ammeter, and wiriing it in in place of your gauge to see if it gives you the same readings???

[Young Ed]

Dave you know where to find us if you need help testing it out.

[DLK]

Dave you know where to find us if you need help testing it out.

I raised the white flag and drove it to R&S Automotive who currently is going through the charging system. Unfortunately they found three leaking wheel cylinders and a leaky master cylinder as well. I guess better they find them now than I spring a bigger leak on a hill or in an intersection.

[Young Ed]

Why would they even be looking at the brakes when you brought it in for a charging issue? I would have told them to put the wheels back on and fix what I told them to. Unless of course you told them to check it over....

[P-12 Tommy]

Ditto on that!

Tom

[JerseyHarold]

I'd stop by unannounced and ask them to show me the leaks.

[Captain Neon]

I don't know if you have a long term otherwise good relationship with this shop, but I had a bad experience with a shop in Colorado that after refusing their oil change and fluid change for my Jeep ($200), they then wanted to charge me over $350 just in parts to replace a motorised antenna that I told them to bypass (I have never liked power antenna) to fix the power seat. I did bring it in for a brake job. When all was said and done, I was charged almost double retail price on parts and every thing but the master cylinder was replaced. They took their time getting things finished too. Were the brakes not already apart when they started making suggestions, I would have taken my Jeep out. I still don't know if I would have been allowed to take my Jeep home without paying some sort of exorbitant shop and storage fee.

When the mechanic working on the vehicle is getting $20/hr + benefits, and I am being charged $100/hr. labour, there is no reason to charge a premium on parts too. I'll pay retail, but no more, esp. when shops usu. pay close to half retail price. I have a rule of thumb that some may find unfair, but until proven otherwise on a case by case basis, never have your cars fixed by the same guys that run an impound lot.