gasket and such help

[ggdad1951]

ok, NAPA doesn't have the gaskets on the rear end for the pumpkin or the diff, anyone know of anyone that DOES have them? Or is it RTV time/razor knife and pattern time?

Also, on the clutch and brakes interface with the floor there is a "pad". Obviously mine are pretty shot, any ideas?

Same with the gas fill gasket by the gas cap.

[bach4660]

for the diff, the RTV works really good

[HanksB3B]

RTV ?

Thanks,

Hank

[MBF]

Hi temp silicone sealant. A light beed around the pumpkin and the cover should suffice. Make sure the mating surfaces are oil free and clean. Mike

[HanksB3B]

I thought it might be something in sheet format. I'm not a fan of squeezy gaskets. Most of the gaskets I make are from rubbing a pencil over tracing paper (or scanning a part directly on a flat bed scanner) then using a cad program and a pair of calipers to get it dimensionally correct. Then I print a sheet of paper, lightly mist it with 3M non-permanent adhesive and use the correct size hole punch from my $6 Harbor Freight hole punch set and an X-acto knife.

The problem is with larger parts like a differential (which I haven't done yet) is where to get gasket material. I'm sure it's out there somewhere be if it's slated for the automotive industry, it'll be overly expensive. I was hoping RTV was a sheet type material. Wonder if Bituthane which is a self-adhesive damp proofing material would work. I'll have to look into suppliers of gasket materials.

Thanks for any ideas,

Hank

[TodFitch]

Gasket paper from your local auto supply store and a few minutes with scissors/shop knife and some hole punches. For my usage pattern, the hole punches from Harbor Freight are of sufficient quality and were pretty cheap.

[Merle Coggins]

I don't like RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanization) Silicone for this application. In fact, I don't like it for most applications that it gets missused in. It has its merits, but not here. In this type of application you need a good solid bond between the axle housing and the diff housing. With RTV there will be a rubber like filb between the parts, and although it will seal well at first, over time the diff will flex and move and the RTV sealant won't hold up.

For this type of application I like Loctite's 515 Anaerobic Gasket Eliminator. It has the consistancy of Elmers Glue (maybe a little thicker) when applied but hardens in the absense of air to form a hard plastic type material that will hold up well. I recommend it for all metal to metal joints that need a good solid bond.

Napa sells it under their brand name as well.

Merle

Edited July 19, 2010 by Merle Coggins

[1937 Dodge]

I bought mine on e-bay last summer when I swapped out third members and was quite pleased with it. Shipping was a little high.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190281943704&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_965wt_812

[JBNeal]

Gasket paper from your local auto supply store and a few minutes with scissors/shop knife and some hole punches. For my usage pattern, the hole punches from Harbor Freight are of sufficient quality and were pretty cheap.

I've used this approach many times...my shortcut is to put a thin thin layer of grease on my flat machined surface, then mash that surface onto the gasket material. It will leave a silhouette for cutting the new gasket.

For assembly, I use gasket sealant to stick the gasket on the surface for assembly. So far, those homemade gasket haven't seeped any.

[ggdad1951]

thanks everyone, seems I just needed to hear what I knew...

Any word on the pedal pads?

And the gas fill line?

I bought mine on e-bay last summer when I swapped out third members and was quite pleased with it. Shipping was a little high.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190281943704&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_965wt_812

what was the OD on that thing?

[Merle Coggins]

Roberts Motor Parts www.robertsmotorparts.com has the pedal draft seals (good luck installing them) and the gas filler grommet.

Item # T22

Filler neck grommet is item # T136

[SteveMelchiorre]

Funny one Merle,

Yesterday I was just looking at my Roberts Motors pedal draft seals and thinking how the heck am I going to get these on w/o taking the pedals off.

Any advice?

Steve....

[Merle Coggins]

"They" say that you can soak them in warm soapy water and gently work them over the pedal pads, but when I tried that mine ripped and aren't any good now. I may have to get another set and try again. I forgot to try from the bottom up when I had the pedals off, but that doesn't look like it would work much better.

Steele Rubber also sells them at 3 times the price, but maybe their's are more stretchable?

Merle

[SteveMelchiorre]

I'll give that a shot.

The p/o of my truck made his own out of some rubber material folded over and pop riveted into the floor. If mine rip as yours did I may just drill out the rivets and attach them that way.

Steve...

[TodFitch]

"They" say that you can soak them in warm soapy water and gently work them over the pedal pads, but when I tried that mine ripped and aren't any good now. I may have to get another set and try again. I forgot to try from the bottom up when I had the pedals off, but that doesn't look like it would work much better.

Steele Rubber also sells them at 3 times the price, but maybe their's are more stretchable?

Merle

The Steele Rubber pedal seals could not be stretched over the pedals nor over the bottom on my 33 Plymouth. From the parts book diagrams I think my setup is pretty similar to the trucks of your era. I ended up slicing the seals, fitting them over the pedal stem then gluing up the sliced area. And then they disintegrated after a few years....

[Don Coatney]

Differential chunk gaskets can be made from paper grocery bags. I have done this successfully many times. Lay the paper on the flat surface and lightly tap the paper with a ball pien hammer. This will cut the gasket in the exact shape.

The pedal draft rubbers "float" with the pedals and need to be installed below the floorboard. With my pedal rubber toe piece removed I was able to slip them on to the pedal shaft. I dont think the toe piece is removable on trucks.

[TodFitch]

...snip... I dont think the toe piece is removable on trucks.

And it is not removable on the PD either. Therein lies the problem.

I do know that it is removable on the P4 but don't know when they switched on the cars.

[JoelOkie]

I would try a chunk of the spongy black insulation that goes over copper air conditioning line tied with a couple zip ties if you don't want to unhook your pedals right away, and then do the draft seals first time they have to come out.

[1937 Dodge]

thanks everyone, seems I just needed to hear what I knew...

Any word on the pedal pads?

And the gas fill line?

what was the OD on that thing?

I swapped a 3.54 third member in place of my 3.9. My over drive is 5th gear on a custom T5 from Langdon's Stovebolt Engine Co. It has the case of an older S10 with the mechanical speedometer drive and a Mustang WC gear set. 5th gear is .68. I was running a stock S10 T5 with a 5th gear ratio of .72. I also wanted a numerically lower first gear than offered by the stock S10 T5. I used to have to shift out of first gear (3.76) while I was still going through the intersection. Now (with 3.35) I can run up a few more mph before shfting to 2nd.

The new ratios are great with my 265 block but I would have gone with more aggressive gearing if I had a stock 218 or 230 engine.

Edited July 20, 2010 by 1937 Dodge
data revision

[1937 Dodge]

Got my seals from Roberts. I have pickup pedals. I used some tips from this forum to get mine on: I covered the rubber dust seals and pedals with vasoline, then I heated the rubber seals with a hair dryer and was able to stretch them on.

I also bought two rubber pedal pads for my pickup. After struggling to get them on, I was told that the cars had rubber pedal pads but the trucks did not. Oh well.....

Edited July 20, 2010 by 1937 Dodge
typo

[Merle Coggins]

The pedal draft rubbers "float" with the pedals and need to be installed below the floorboard. With my pedal rubber toe piece removed I was able to slip them on to the pedal shaft. I dont think the toe piece is removable on trucks.

Don,

The floor board in question is removable on the trucks but the pedal pads are not removable from the levers. In order to install the draft seals they must be stretched over the pads.

Merle

[MBF]

The pedal seals from Roberts will slip over the pedals from the top. I just used a little Armor All on mine and worked it in. Also-make sure there are no rust scaps on either the pedal proper or the sharft so that you don't tear them. Mike

[ggdad1951]

heh, got an order from a REALLY nice guy from here and lo and behold two of the pedal pads were tossed in as a freebie (Dutch ROCKS!)! Now of course after paining I have to weasel them on! GREAT! I loke the warming up and a lube concept.

I see here that "float" below the floor boards? so they don't actually use that grooove onthem to seat into a hole?

Didn't see the fill gasket on Roberts whenI looked last week...will have to llok again it seems.

Thanks everyone!