Door panel project again

[DLK]

Ed you got new hardboard backer board which is smart. I found out from Jerry's Upholstery that when the prior owner redid my door panels they just put new material over the old panels and the boards are in pretty sad shape. He was able to make a nice repair but I wonder how long it will last.

[Young Ed]

Im actually using wood called hardboard I got at menards. Not quite the same as the cardboardy stuff the upholstery shops use. But it was way cheaper!

[Plymouthy Adams]

tempered hardboard they call it..That is what I bought to make the panels in the wagon..after cutting them and such, I coated them with two coats of urethane to seal and help to make them even more moisture reistant...after seeing the stuff they upholstery shop uses..I think I like this stuff..and the wagon normally had, at least int he rear compartment, similar material from the factory..

[greg g]

While you guys are prowling around Menards, Home Depot, Lowes etc. Ask the recieving guys who deal with sheet good about the stuff that seperates bundles of sheet goods on pallets. It is similar to the stuff Tim is talking about but with two improtant differences.

It's FREE, They usually throw it away as they are racking stuff, and if you wet it you can bend it and when it dries it retains the bend.

Its workable with basic cutting tools, hole drills nicely and takes paint quite well.

[P-12 Tommy]

I see Home Depot has 1/8 inch thick by 4' by 8' tempered hardboard for $7.25 a piece. Sounds tempting.

Tom

[Young Ed]

That sounds like what I bought Tom. I think I paid 6 something each at menards here. I bought 3 sheets which will probably end up being too much. I got both front doors and 1 rear panel out of the first sheet.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Tommy..I personally feel that if you use any fiber type panel it should be coated with polyurethane both side, all edges after you do your cuts, holes etc to eliminate some of the potential to warp or swell due to moisture..do install a plastic vapor barrier similar to today's modern car. This stuff cuts super good with a jig saw, you lightly edge sand etc for a real nice looking panel. It is just a tad thicker than what the upholstery shops use..

[Young Ed]

Oh ya Tim in proper fashion I had to buy a new tool for this project. After using Dads ancient B&D 1 speed jig saw I upgraded to an 18v cordless dewalt model with variable speed. Its nice to be able to slow down on the curvy parts! Does the polyurethane on the front interfere with the glue sticking to the panel? I haven't coated mine with anything yet.

[Plymouthy Adams]

If you use the Weldwood Contact cement is according with directions..Polyurethane finish is no different than a painted surface...proper application to both surfaces, let set till no longer tacky to the touch..you get but one chance to glue it down straight..that is the secret behind contact cememt..it bonds on contact when applied proper..never use it when still wet and runny..

[Young Ed]

Ah I've been using 3M super spray adhesive. I do think I'll pull the front panels off and coat the backside.

[P-12 Tommy]

Ah I've been using 3M super spray adhesive. I do think I'll pull the front panels off and coat the backside.

I've got a few cans of the 3M stuff. Works great! Thanks to both Ed and Tim for the info!

Tom

[Plymouthy Adams]

I personally do not think that the 3M spray is up to the task..good stuff for shipping labels and for lightly tacking halofill/padding and such when sewing but not up to the task for door panels etc..do go by Lowes and get a quart of the Weldwood brand contact cement..coat both surface and let dry and then stick them togehter..think you will find that the spray is just not up to the same task..

[P-12 Tommy]

I've got a Lowes right up the street. Won't hurt to try. Thanks Tim

Tom

[Young Ed]

Back at work again. Made both rear pieces.

[Young Ed]

Also made the piece for below the rear window and put a little dynamat down on the floor.

[Frank Elder]

I can't see your pics, is it just me?

Now I see them!

Edited September 6, 2010 by FRANKIE47

[55 Fargo]

Look very nice Ed, keep up the good work.....

[BobT-47P15]

Lets see a pic of the ashtrays with the new wooden knobs when you

get them in place. Looks nice.

[carmen142]

Wow you guys are good. I have learned so much from this site. Tell me what you used for the stainles. I know most you might reuse the one that came with your car, but how about if the stainless is all rusted?

Thanks

Carmen

[John Reddie]

WOW ED! Really nice job.

John R

[Young Ed]

Wow you guys are good. I have learned so much from this site. Tell me what you used for the stainles. I know most you might reuse the one that came with your car, but how about if the stainless is all rusted?

Thanks

Carmen

I reused my old ones. Being stainless the outside is cleanable with steelwool or a buffer. The tabs that hold it in are inserts that are made of reg steel. If those are shot I guess you'd have to try and insert new ones.

[Oldguy48]

I reused my old ones. Being stainless the outside is cleanable with steelwool or a buffer. The tabs that hold it in are inserts that are made of reg steel. If those are shot I guess you'd have to try and insert new ones.

I had a few of those tabs missing on the trim for my doors. I used some #12 solid copper wire, and a dab of JB Weld to repair mine. Just bent an "L" shaped length and inserted it into the trim with the JB Weld. Have not installed them yet, but I think it should work OK.

[carmen142]

Thanks for the info. But what if your stainless is missing? Who sells it?

[1940plymouth]

Thanks for the info. But what if your stainless is missing? Who sells it?

Try Dave at Fat Fendered Relics, he has a good selection of stainless for our Plymouths

[OldDad67]

Try Dave at Fat Fendered Relics' date=' he has a good selection of stainless for our Plymouths[/quote']

Here's Dave's phone number I was just over there last week and bought a hood hinge from him. 360-260-0434 dstromberg@comcast.net