Fuel Sending Unit

[sam knopik]

I have a '49 B-1-D. I'm at work and needing to order a new sending unit. My materials are at home, including the old unit. Does anyone have the part number handy and can you tell me if it is a single wire unit?

Any help appreciated.

Sam

[Merle Coggins]

As I recall I got mine from Roberts Motor Parts. The arm was shorter but it seems to work fine. With the shorter arm it is probably reading empty with more gas left in reserve, but that way I'm less likely to run out.

And yes, it is a single wire unit.

Merle

[desoto1939]

The Autolite number for the unit is 11453A used on dodge truck from 1948 to 1951 and fargo 1948-51

Dodge truck model that the same tank gage was used on:

send me your home email and I will scan the page for you with all of the information. I can not provide the Mopar number but this will also help you.

rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[grey beard]

J C Whitney sells a dandy generic unit for about 20 bukxx that I have in mine. Just save the old top from your original sender and put it on the new one. Works like a charm. Arm is adjustable to sny size tank. The one Roberts sells is over 80 bucks.

If you try to test it on the hench, you must ground the dash gauge or it will not work. Ask me how I know . . .

[HanksB3B]

I received my JC Whitney Fuel Sending Unit P/N 199437 09-52 (not sure what the 09-52 means).

My truck is a 1951 B3B My questions are:

1. Do I have to empty the tank and remove it to do the install?

Note: When I look through the hole in the cab floor the circle of the top of the fuel sending unit is not centered (back an inch or two)

2. I can't rembemer how the original fuel sending unit is attached to the tank. Is it a 2" or so round retainer that I turn counterclockwise by tapping screwdriver lightly with a hammer?

3. Has anyone with the same tank size as the B3B used the instructions that came with the unit instructing how to measure the tank and cut both the stem and float wire to the correct dimensions or I'll just have to "go-figger".

Thanks,

Hank

P.S. I did copy some more info I think from technical archives.

[Merle Coggins]

Under the seat there should be a round plug in the floor. Pop that plug out and you will have access to the sending unit.

Merle

By the way... When I put my sending unit in I added a grounding terminal to assure that the sender was properly grounded. I drilled a hole through the plate and put a machine screw up from the bottom with a little Permetex sealer. I then use a second nut to attach my ground wire, which runs to one of the trans cover bolts. I dont' have to worry about counting on the ground through the mounting flange and the tank attachments.

[Don Coatney]

Star washers as pictured below should be used in all grounding connections. I use them daily in my job as upgrading the machines that process banknotes for the Federal Reserve Banks. They work well on rusty and painted surfaces as the points on the washer cut through the crap and find good metal for a good ground.,

[Merle Coggins]

I agree, Don. I used a lot of them on my truck too.

Merle

[HanksB3B]

Don,

Maybe if you leave the star washers out, you could singlehandedly fix the economy ya think? (I agree. I do use them)

Merle,

I will do that with the ground (like my headlight buckets)

I still don't know if I have to remove the tank and don't remember how the original one detaches from the tank. Hope I can access it without removing the tank. Should I do this on an empty tank or full. (Don't want to be on that show 1000 ways to die.

Thanks,

Hank

[Merle Coggins]

As I said earlier, the plug under the seat will give you access to the sender in the top of the tank. There is a lock ring that you'll have to turn with a screwdriver or small prybar. Once the lock ring is out, and the wire is disconnected, you should be able to bring the sender up and out of the tank and through the hole in the floor. No need to drain the tank unless you insist on smoking over the open hole.

Merle

[JBNeal]

Yep, I added a ground stud similarly to get a consistent ground. It cured my inconsistent fuel gauge readings immediately. I also adjusted the float arm so that the gauge shows "E" when it's about 2" from the tank bottom. When it reads "E" without bouncing around, I've got about 2 gallons left before it's time to do the walk of shame along the side of the road with gas can in hand.

Edited August 13, 2016 by JBNeal

[HanksB3B]

Merle, not planning to blow myself up any time soon but I will disconnect my battery, and promise not smoke or play with fireworks. It is a lock ring I remember. Is my tank/cab positioned correctly if the circle of the fuel sending unit and the hole in the floor don't line up does yours?

I'm also wondering if I should check the ohms of the original unit if they check out and the cork floats, maybe I should just clean it up real good, add a grounding wire and re-use the original. Ever notice JC Whitney sends you a preprinted, postage paid label for returns? Pretty good for these days for sure.

Brian, I hope I can configure mine to have a few gallon reserve as well that's a good idea.

Thanks,

Hank

[Dodgeb4ya]

I took my tank out of my 1952 PU to gain access to the fuel sending unit, it was so off center there was no way to get the sending unit out. I looked at the tank mounting and brackets and its what it is-cannot move the tank. I have the proper miller tool to remove the sender too--but it requires the hole to be right over the sender. I guess some trucks have this tander off center alignment issue.

Bob

[Merle Coggins]

Mine is a little off center too, but I could fish my sender into the tank through the hole in the floor.

Merle

[Dodgeb4ya]

These sending units are rather fragile. The cones with the copper windings on them can snap off the brass stud pin by hammering on the sending unit retaining ring. That brass rivit is not a very strong piece. If your gas guage worked and then didn't after R&Ring the sender, its possible the winding cone broke loose. It's best to twist off the retainer ring rather than banging on it with a brass drift. I always wondered why so many cones were broken that I had removed from cars/trucks I had parted out.

Bob

[HanksB3B]

Now I know the unit and the floor plug are not always dead center. Next I've got to determine if the old unit can be removed without removing the tank. I think I'll take a picture.

Thanks,

Hank

[Reg Evans]

I just checked two of my parts trucks and in both cases the floor plug hole was centered side to side but the sending unit was off set to the rear of the opening.

[HanksB3B]

somehow I messed up on the cab mounting. Reg that's how mine is.

Thanks,

Hank

[Reg Evans]

Nope Hank, you didn't mess up.....the designer did.

[pflaming]

I removed my tank. Dirt/dibris was trappaed between the tank and the frame crosss member so that the top front of the tank had rusted and a lot of pin holes through. I would check that out.

I removed the sender and checked it with an olm meter and it WORKS! Many times the problem is the ground. I like the bolt solution.

Question: Couldn't one just ground the tank with a separate wire and in so doing ground the sender? I am going to driill a hole in the mount of the tank and run a wire from that to the frame. With fresh holes and good metal screws it should make a good ground.

Edited March 18, 2010 by pflaming

[JBNeal]

The problem is the path to ground from the sending unit. With a ground stud, you can ground directly to the battery. The original design doesn't take into account the resistance that builds from corrosion at the locking ring, the tank mounting bolts, the bracket mounting bolts, or the frame rivets. With a 6V system, all of this resistance is detrimental to adequate circuit continuity. I reckon when folks go to 12V, they are attempting to overcome all of this small resistance, kinda like burning through rusty scale when welding. I have found that once circuit resistance is minimized, that the 6V electrical system works just fine, with the exception of maybe dimmer headlights/taillights.

[Dodgeb4ya]

somehow I messed up on the cab mounting. Reg that's how mine is.

Thanks,

Hank

Your cab is fine. My cab has never been off the truck and my sender is way off center. It's just the poor engineering Dodge did.

Bob