Battery Cables

[Joe Flanagan]

I checked out cables at a welding shop today, as recommended here. They have OO and O and everything up to 4. I brought one of my own to compare and according to them, what was on my car was 4 gauge. O and OO look HUGE to me. Would anyone happen to know what those cables measure in diameter? The ones from my car measure 3/8 of an inch.

[55 Fargo]

2/0 welding cable professionally made at an auto electric shop, with a decent battery is the ticket for 6 volt systems, if you are running 12 then go lighter, as heavy cables such as 2/0 are not necessary for a 12 volt system.

If my system had been converted, would have used 1 s for battery cables....Fred

[greg g]

.263 = 4 gauge .3125 on the low side is 0 on the high side is 00.

[JBNeal]

I went to a local auto parts/hardware store and found everything I needed. They had the 2/0 cable, sold by the foot; solder battery lugs & terminals; and lead-core solder. I had some leftover shrink tubing, and put all those parts together to make a fine set of battery cables that were sealed up on both ends. Those new cables fixed my hard-starting problem and look just like the originals, but with the soldered ends covered with shrink tube, they are much less likely to corrode.

[aero3113]

Are the circles aligned or off from each other in that chart? I think my eyes are playing tricks on me.

[55 Fargo]

I believe they are ok. optical illusion.

Like this. It is not moving.

Hey Shel, did you make this with spirograph, in the 60s...

[P-12 Tommy]

Well.... I got a new set of cables from ANDY B a few years ago and they cost like around $40.00 for the set. So far no problems.

[55 Fargo]

My 2/0 Battery cable and master cut-off switch, would like to install a switch on firewall sometime, more convenient...

[Joe Flanagan]

Yeah, Fred, those are the ultra beefy ones I saw at the welding place today. What I was measuring was the diameter with the outer insulation. I was not measuring the copper cable inside. If I wind up making my own, is lead core solder a must?

And is it too much to ask Greg to cut his finger off and send it around so we can use it for reference? He'll get it back. Sheesh!

[Young Ed]

Joe Ive been running 1 gauge in both my mopars for years now. Both start great. I got my cables at napa. I think they had 0 gauge ones also if you want to go heavier.

[55 Fargo]

Yeah, Fred, those are the ultra beefy ones I saw at the welding place today. What I was measuring was the diameter with the outer insulation. I was not measuring the copper cable inside. If I wind up making my own, is lead core solder a must?

And is it too much to ask Greg to cut his finger off and send it around so we can use it for reference? He'll get it back. Sheesh!

Good lead core solder is the best I believe.

Watch he doesn't "flip us the bird", instead of the finger......LOL

[greg g]

I could suggest a pretty universally available alternative anatomical part that for wires to be compared to, but I didn't want the cables to feel quit so superior.

[Joe Flanagan]

Pinky finger, Fred. That one's innocent.

[Rodney Bullock]

Hi Joe, I wanted to introduce you to a guy on old alexander ferry road. At Harrell batteries his name is Eugene. I and other have used him for many years because he sell, maintains and makes things for the 6 volt collectors. I had my cables made for all my 6 volts car. This is something I learned on this forum alot of years ago. The cable must be the right size and you must have a ground wire at the right location. he tickle charges batteries an test the battery out the car and sometimes like in my case in the car. he also has every filter that you would ever need(Wix) 301-868-1170. Gene also has that additive for our solid lifter motors.

[cole18cars]

Hello, I get Street Rodder Mag. In the newest issue there is a very good article on electrical issues. One thing that surprised me was that the electrons flow on the outside of the wire, therefore the more strands in the cable the better for current flow.

[Niel Hoback]

Maybe thats why the welding cable makes such a good battery cable! I am also using the old flat braided ground strap, many tiny wires in it, too. Thats quite a handy insight.

[aero3113]

My 50 Plymouth does not have a ground strap. Will I notice any difference in cranking if one is installed?

[Niel Hoback]

There has to be some sort of ground or nothing will work! If you have a round ground cable of sufficient size, it will work perfectly. The only reason I am using a flat braided strap is because I like the way it looks.

A round ground and a ground round are the same in that they will both fry. C'mon, these are the jokes!

[aero3113]

My Negative post of the battery goes to the alternator (P O installed a 6Volt alt) I do not Have a ground strap to the frame. Is this only needed with a generator?

[Niel Hoback]

It really would be best if the ground cable was bolted to the engine block for better conductivity to the starter motor. The alternator is grounded very well through its mounting brackets. It always a good idea to make a ground connection with a heavy guage wire or strap from the body to the motor block or the frame. Mine goes from the firewall to the side of the head. Just my opinion, but I think it makes my lights brighter.

[Joe Flanagan]

My local NAPA happened to have a set of 1 gauge in stock so I bought them. Looks like the PO was running this car with 4 gauge.

[Frank Blackstone]

If someone already made this distinction in this thread I missed it. DC runs on outside of the conductor and AC runs on inside . The way I remember this fact is that DC battery cables are braided. I believe because there is more surface is the braids than a solid wire and I KNOW they are braided because if it was solid it would be difficult to bend a 00 cable like I have made. I also used the NAPA breand of heat shirk that has the goop inside that leaks out the end when heated and makes an air tight seal.

I did notice another of my rides had some corrosion hidden under the insulation of the battery cable end. Only visible when pealed back but it was reducing conductivity. I'll soon replace with fresh end ,heat sealed ,soldered lug.

[DonaldSmith]

Before some recent posts on this forum, I never heard of DC on the outside and AC in the inside of a conductor.

Electrons are electrons, whether they keep going in the same direction or switch directions back and forth 60 times a second.

I thought solid vs stranded was a matter of the required flexibility of the wire. House wiring is usually solid, but commerical wiring is usually stranded (Maybe to snake through condiut fittings more easiliy?).

Now, I could be wrong, and am about to learn something new. It wouldn't be the first time.

[Jim Saraceno]

I agree with Donald. I've been an electrician for 35 years and never heard of the inside-outside theory. Then again, we seldom see DC electricity nor do I know everything (I don't admit that very often).

Solid vs. stranded is often a property of flexibility. Houses use romex and holds it shape better when solid. Commercial uses conduit and the wire pulls easier when it's stranded.

So Frank, I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm always interested in learning some more electrical theory... Where did you pick up this particular In-Out theory?