looking for a mtached set of a connecting rods

[michael.warshaw]

30,000 miles wow thats alot of miles in the p15 mr don i salute you for that. if i can get 5000k miles summer ill be more then happy with that.

[michael.warshaw]

when you have a od tranny does it shift the same way as three on the tree?

or is it more involved, arere extra steps and things you have to push to do get into overdive?

is this tranny a od tranny out of a 1952-56 plymouth?

well i contact the guy who is selling this item, and he said i can have it i just have to pick it up, or he can ship it to me. i wonder waht it will cost to ship this thing? i know i have asked before but this tranny in the pic is the one out of a 52- 56 plymouth and is the right one and will bolt up directly to my p15 right?

[james curl]

Blue Skies or Normspeed will have to answer as they both have installed the overdrive in their cars. It looks right to me, the only thing would be the length of the input shaft, if the transmission came from a Plymouth then it should just bolt up.

[RobertKB]

If it came from a 52-56 Plymouth it could be either 6 volt or 12 volts depending on the year. Blueskies could tell you more about that. PM him. Make sure it come with all the necessary cables and wiring. I believe you will need a different carburetor as well with the overdrive. It is not just a matter of bolting in the overdrive transmission and having OD. There are lots of other little things that have to be done as these cars were not available originally with OD as you know.

Edited January 14, 2010 by RobertKB

[Jim Yergin]

I believe you will need a different carburetor as well with the overdrive. It is not just a matter of bolting in the overdrive transmission and having OD. There are lots of other little things that have to be done as these cars were not available originally with OD as you know.

Actually, there is no need to change the carb except to accommodate the original style kick-down switch. I have an O/D from a 1953 Plymouth that was a direct bolt-in into my 1941 Plymouth. I did end up changing the carb with a rebuilt later model one from George Asche to allow me to attach the kick-down switch but that particular switch is not necessary to operate the O/D. Check blueskies' web site for information on alternative locations for the switch. You will need the O/D relay and a lock-out cable to make it work but those can be found on eBay if they are not with the transmission. The only other change I had to make was to change the shift levers in my car because it originally came with the power-shift option. That option was not offered in the P15 so that should not be a problem for Michael.

Jim Yergin

[Joe Flanagan]

Jim, I also have an overdrive transmission from a 53 Plymouth. What do I have to check in order to find out whether I need to change my shift levers as well?

[Young Ed]

Joe you should be fine. But to check just compare the ones on your standard 3spd to your OD. They should look the same.

[Jim Yergin]

Joe,

I agree with Ed. The difference was in the '41 set-up, not with the '53 transmission. One of my shift rods was different because of the different power shift lever on the '41 so I had to change that too. Your '49 wasn't offered with the power shift so there should be no problem.

Jim Yergin

[Don Coatney]

I didn't know you had a Dodge Charger differential, Don. Somehow I missed that part of your rebuild project.

RE my tires, I think I just went and bought a middle of the road radial that was the correct size. I needed to be able to roll it around. At the time it had four flat, dry-rotted tires. A friend with a 4X4 pulled it out of the garage it had been sitting in for 20 years and it just skidded along the ground. I don't think any of the wheels turned. These may not be THE tires for my car but I'll use them during the break-in period and see how they do.

Joe;

For more pictures follow the link below on my differential swap. It was as close to a bolt in as is possible. However I did replace the internal gears for a more desirable gear ratio.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/Differential/?start=all

If it came from a 52-56 Plymouth it could be either 6 volt or 12 volts depending on the year. Blueskies could tell you more about that. PM him. Make sure it come with all the necessary cables and wiring. I believe you will need a different carburetor as well with the overdrive. It is not just a matter of bolting in the overdrive transmission and having OD. There are lots of other little things that have to be done as these cars were not available originally with OD as you know.

Robert;

Not sure why a carburetor swap would be required? As has been mentioned the only carburetor to overdrive connection is the kick down switch and that is only connected to the carburetor linkage. Here is a wiring diaghram from George Asche. The voltage difference can be corrected by swapping in the required voltage solonoid coils.

Edited January 14, 2010 by Don Coatney

[Jim Yergin]

Joe;

Robert;

Noty sure why a carburetor swap would be required? As has been mentioned the only carburetor to overdrive connection is the kick down switch and that is only connected to the carburetor linkage. Here is a wiring diaghram from George Asche. The voltage difference can be corrected by swapping in the required voltage solonoid coils.

Don,

It is because of the way the kick-down switch bracket is fastened to the carb base so that the linkage can contact the switch. The base of my '41 carb would not allow the bracket to be attached. That is why I got a different carb from George Asche. But you would only have to do that if you want the kick-down switch in that place. I also followed Pete Anderson's lead and mounted a switch in the gear shift knob. In retrospect I would have foregone the one on the carb and just relied on the one on the gear shift.

Jim Yergin

[hkestes41]

If it came from a 52-56 Plymouth it could be either 6 volt or 12 volts depending on the year. Blueskies could tell you more about that. PM him. Make sure it come with all the necessary cables and wiring. I believe you will need a different carburetor as well with the overdrive. It is not just a matter of bolting in the overdrive transmission and having OD. There are lots of other little things that have to be done as these cars were not available originally with OD as you know.

I have been running my OD on a 12 volt system with the original 6 volt solenoid for over a year with no problems and it is nearly a daily driver. Before I installed it I did open up the solenoid clean everything up and face the contact points.

The wiring harness for the OD is fairly simple so if it does not come with the harness is not that big a deal.

As for the lockout cable, you can look for an original or you can use a hood release cable from the parts store. I just leave my cable in so that OD is available all the time.

For the kickdown, I used the stock switch mounted through the lower lip of the dash below the starter button. When I want to kickdown out of OD just reach below the dash and push the button. I think that is the way Pete originally did his before adding the button to the shift knob.

[greg g]

The switch can be located at any point where any part of the throttle linkage can contact it at WOT. It does not necessarily need to be on the carb.

Could even be on the floor where your foot could contact it when you stomp the pedal, that way you could have full throttle in top gear O/D without it dropping out.

Like on a long gradual grade you want want wot without the down shift.

[michael.warshaw]

is this tranny a od unit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380170097423&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[builtfercomfort]

Well this thread is not long enough yet. There are other overdrive options too.

In a few pre-war years there was a R-7 overdrive as well. This was more primitive, see http://forums.aaca.org/f169/1940-overdrive-transmission-216429.html for a description. This was offered on some Chrysler and Desoto models around 1939-41 I think, not sure of the exact models.

I have an overdrive & transmission, complete with 1939 Chrysler 218 engine (a long block, not the same as the Plymouth 218) that I've been trying to sell. George Asche could probably help you get it working in a newer car, PM or email me if you are interested.

Putting 16 inch wheels on the back will help decrease engine RPMs at highway speed too.

[Joe Flanagan]

No. The one shown in the earlier picture is. Didn't you say the guy was going to give you that one?

[RobertKB]

is this tranny a od unit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380170097423&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

No, and for that price you could rebuild five or more transmissions with all new parts. If it is that rusty on the outside it could well be rusty on the inside because I doubt it has ever had oil in it. The seller must think it is made out of gold.

[Captain Neon]

Well this thread is not long enough yet. There are other overdrive options too.

In a few pre-war years there was a R-7 overdrive as well. This was more primitive, see http://forums.aaca.org/f169/1940-overdrive-transmission-216429.html for a description. This was offered on some Chrysler and Desoto models around 1939-41 I think, not sure of the exact models.

I have an overdrive & transmission, complete with 1939 Chrysler 218 engine (a long block, not the same as the Plymouth 218) that I've been trying to sell. George Asche could probably help you get it working in a newer car, PM or email me if you are interested.

Putting 16 inch wheels on the back will help decrease engine RPMs at highway speed too.

There is something to be said for the R-7 as one manually engage the OD w/ a lever on the floor while the R-10 uses solenoids and other electric parts to engage the OD. My Dad has an R-7 in his '36 Dodge that he actuates with a button on the dash connected to an electric motor.

I'm partial to the R-10 as I do not need to shorten my driveshaft to install.

[Dodgeb4ya]

No, and for that price you could rebuild five or more transmissions with all new parts. If it is that rusty on the outside it could well be rusty on the inside because I doubt it has ever had oil in it. The seller must think it is made out of gold.

That trans being NOS is coated with cosmoline inside and out. Most likely has no rust. Sure is priced like it is worth gold for a regular 3 spd!

Bob

[Dodgeb4ya]

There is something to be said for the R-7 as one manually engage the OD w/ a lever on the floor while the R-10 uses solenoids and other electric parts to engage the OD. My Dad has an R-7 in his '36 Dodge that he actuates with a button on the dash connected to an electric motor.

I'm partial to the R-10 as I do not need to shorten my driveshaft to install.

I ran a R7 in my 51 Plymouth-I did not shorten the driveshaft, I just swapped rear yokes.

Bob

[Rollie���]

Mackster,

How to make your own whitewalls:

I took a DA to my tires took get rid of the lettering I didn't want. I then built

rig out of flat steel, a long bolt, and a piece of angle. Bolted said rig to the back

of the wheel (using 2 lug nut holes) so that the long bolt was perfectly centered in the wheel. I taped off the wheel and tire, the sat my piece of angle iron with (a centered hole) on the the bolt and drilled a hole where I wanted my white wall to end. Stuck my Sharpie in the hole and rotated the angle iron until I drew a perfect circle. Then very carefully used a razor blade to cut away the tape, be

super careful with this.

Three coats of Krylon gloss white and viola, white walls!

Only problem with painting your own white walls is with new tires. My new tires leached out the releasing agents and turned my whitewalls to brown walls.

Edited January 15, 2010 by Rollie���

[Rollie���]

brown walls (more brown the the cell phone picture shows) :

[Rollie���]

looking at cell phone pictures I taped the line, cut, the taped off the rest.

anyways I'm sure there is an easier way to do this then how I did it.

[Captain Neon]

I ran a R7 in my 51 Plymouth-I did not shorten the driveshaft, I just swapped rear yokes.

Bob

Good to know. Other folks that I have met have chosen to shorten the driveshaft instead when installing an R-7.

[mackster]

looking at cell phone pictures I taped the line, cut, the taped off the rest.

anyways I'm sure there is an easier way to do this then how I did it.

great job rollie! I like your work!!!! what paint did you use? I was reading on the hamb that its best to use plastic paint ...

[Rollie���]

I did use the Krylon paint for plastic and besides the color change, it has held up nicely.