A little rust problem

[47heaven]

As I was stripping out the inside of the car today, I discovered some rust on the floor that I hadn't see before. These are spots that have eaten through and definately need to be repaired. The worst spot is by the gas pedal, as seen in the pic below. It's getting to the point where the bottom part is going to fall through the floor sooner or later. It looks as if the bottom portion of the pedal was connected to two prongs or something. Does anyone have a pic or illustration of how this is set up. I have a friend that is going to do the patch up work by welding, not covering over with sheet metal and rivots, as it seems had been done to it before I got it. There is rust under the black step panels, but couldn't get them off to see how much. How bad does it look from your point of view?

[55 Fargo]

Those are typical spots to rust, the horse hair under the rubbermats or carpet held moisture on these areas, thus over time they rust. Clean these areas up, weld or rivet in new metal where necessary, apply on body shop seam sealer to seal the joints and to protect from more moisture getting through. Paint over areas with POR 15, you cpuld then spray on rubberized undercoating. this involves some grunt work, but it's not all that difficult, and if it doesn't look beautiful under the car who cares you the only one who knows what it looks like in those spots, just get it cleaned up, patched and sealed with POR 15 or undercoating.................Rockwood

[55 Fargo]

Heres a pic of my floors when I had just finsihed the welding and painting, I have since sprayed 100 % rubberized undercoating over the area, It's not real professional, but its welded, strong and hopefulyy will last a few years...........FredPS all of the metal was rusted away along the kick panels, I welded in new tin in these areas, I also welded in a patch on the removeable floor pan.

[47heaven]

Those are typical spots to rust, the horse hair under the rubbermats or carpet held moisture on these areas, thus over time they rust. Clean these areas up, weld or rivet in new metal where necessary, apply on body shop seam sealer to seal the joints and to protect from more moisture getting through. Paint over areas with POR 15, you cpuld then spray on rubberized undercoating. this involves some grunt work, but it's not all that difficult, and if it doesn't look beautiful under the car who cares you the only one who knows what it looks like in those spots, just get it cleaned up, patched and sealed with POR 15 or undercoating.................Rockwood

Thanks, Fred. Will do!

[47heaven]

You know, Fred...I just looked at your car on your profile and remember when I was 11 or 12 in the 70's, a neighbor of ours had the same car you do with faded green paint. I always thought it was so massive, but as a kid I noticed how cool these old cars looked and wanted one even then.

[55 Fargo]

Yah, I can relate. presently I am doing the body work, I may either shoot a coat of epoxy primer on it and drive it like that for a bit or I may paint it as soon as the body work is done. I still have some mechanical issues to deal with, as well as the interior and chrome, but all in time.

As I write this it's 5 below here in my part of Canada, I have a heated garage but, when it's this cold it costs a fortune to keep the heaters running in order to work with bondo etc, so I will wait till it's a little warmer out. If I lived in your area, I would no doubt be further ahead than I am.........Fred

[Plymouthy Adams]

With all due respect..that little bit by the gas pedal is your least concern those rivets patches may keep out a bit of air and water..but add nothing to integrity..those should be ripped out and correctly repaired...

[47heaven]

Yah, I can relate. presently I am doing the body work, I may either shoot a coat of epoxy primer on it and drive it like that for a bit or I may paint it as soon as the body work is done. I still have some mechanical issues to deal with, as well as the interior and chrome, but all in time.

As I write this it's 5 below here in my part of Canada, I have a heated garage but, when it's this cold it costs a fortune to keep the heaters running in order to work with bondo etc, so I will wait till it's a little warmer out. If I lived in your area, I would no doubt be further ahead than I am.........Fred

5 degrees below, eh?? Holy frijoles!! It got 26 degrees at night a few weeks ago and we thought that was too cold. It's 59 here right now, but I do have the heater on to take the chill off. Remember that our blood is thinner out here than where you are at. By the way...I didn't mention it before, but you have done a nice job on your floor. Wish I knew something about welding.

[JIPJOBXX]

Your floor area kind of looks like mine and I used sheet metal with pop rivets to repair the areas that were rusted out and then I premiered and painted the entire area. Welding is the best but sometime the cost factor is a little to much to handle so I figure that this area is not seen by anyone but me so why not just pop rivet the sheet metal in place. My gas pedal was solidly in place so I did not need to fool around with that area. I think if I ever get back down to that area underneath my carpets I might just paint over all the metal areas with Pour 15 and never haft to repair that area again. Jon

[47heaven]

With all due respect..that little bit by the gas pedal is your least concern those rivets patches may keep out a bit of air and water..but add nothing to integrity..those should be ripped out and correctly repaired...

Actually, the hole is a concern because the gas pedal did get stuck in it once and I couldn't accelerate one time when I needed to. You are right about the rivet patches and I definately am having those removed and patch welded.

[47heaven]

Your floor area kind of looks like mine and I used sheet metal with pop rivets to repair the areas that were rusted out and then I premiered and painted the entire area. Welding is the best but sometime the cost factor is a little to much to handle so I figure that this area is not seen by anyone but me so why not just pop rivet the sheet metal in place. My gas pedal was solidly in place so I did not need to fool around with that area. I think if I ever get back down to that area underneath my carpets I might just paint over all the metal areas with Pour 15 and never haft to repair that area again. Jon

Jon...I have a friend who is a welder that probably won't charge me much. I do need to supply the heavier sheet metal for him, though. The sheet metal with rivets does cover the holes, but doesn't stop the rust from spreading from the already cancerous area.

[55 Fargo]

47, when your ready, remove the riveted patches, cut out all the rust, with cut off wheel or angle grinder with zipcuts, and weak areas, where the floor runs along the a pillar and kickpanels, make sure it strong in this area under the the floor pan. If necessary weld and fab to strengthen the support areas, when that is done cut and weld in new 16 or 18 gauge sheet steel. You have a friend who is a welder, this will be no big deal for him, as Jon mentioned you could rivet as a last recourse, I would have done that on my car but it too far gone to trust only rivets, so I welded in new metal.

The gas pedal pin area, fab a new metal patch and weld in, whichever way is best, seam seal everything, paint on POR15, Rust Bullet, or some other high quality rust paint, then spray on 100% rubberized undercoating if you wish.

This repair once done will last you a long time, Southern Cal is fairly dry, no snow, no salt and being in Pomona your not right along the beach with all the salt air............later Fred

[John Mulders]

I believe Norm or Don has a picture how the gaspedal can be secured.

The gas pedal is 'clicked' on two balls that are just off the floor.

These were fabricated from two bolts that were secured in the floor with nuts and the bolt head was rounded with a grinder.

John

[Don Coatney]

I believe Norm or Don has a picture how the gaspedal can be secured.

The gas pedal is 'clicked' on two balls that are just off the floor.

These were fabricated from two bolts that were secured in the floor with nuts and the bolt head was rounded with a grinder.

John

Follow the link for more pictures.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/Floor%20pan/

[PatS....]

Looks great, Fred!!!

[John Mulders]

Thanks Don,

at least my memory is still intact

John

[47heaven]

Thanks guys....the pics and instructions will help a lot. I think I may need to get a new gas pedal for the car that is hopefully like the original because the holes on the bottom of it or pretty worn. Any places that might carry it besides Bernbaum?

[55 Fargo]

Heres a pic of my car running outside the garage about 5 minutes ago, the outside air temp is -2 f. The car was in the garage, which is 32. The car ain't perty right now, but buy late spring I will have a ot of the body work done and in epoxy primer, I think............Fred hey southern guys my car is not on fire that's exhaust fog as it is very cold here today

[grey beard]

I have been told that epoxy primer, if left uncovered for more than one week, needs to be re-shot before it can be covered with paint. Anyone know if this is correct?

[Jeff.P_46]

You just need to rough it up again with like 220 grit before you shoot anything over the top of it.

Jeff

[JIPJOBXX]

Well I think I will just let the next owner of my 42 to take up the carpets and redue my mickey mouse fix. But till then I will just hide the fact that it needs this repair and continue down the road! Oh I should mention that my rust out problem is not as sever as to haft to remove all the metal and install new sheet metal.

[De Soto Frank]

It took me a while to figure this out, but this chronic floor rot in out MoPars seems to be largely the result of water leaking in at the corners of the windhield (over fifty-plus years)... rainwater drains to the lower corners of the winshield, then seeps past the old dry rubber weather strip, then trickles down the corners of the dashboard, drips onto the carpet or floor-mat with the jute padding underneath, and before long, the front floors are history...

So, after all the efforts toward floor repair, it might be a good idea to seal-up the cabin so that water can't get in and start the process again...

[Allan Faust]

I have been told that epoxy primer, if left uncovered for more than one week, needs to be re-shot before it can be covered with paint. Anyone know if this is correct?

With any paint, once the "sanding window" and "topcoat window" are past (depends on paint system), you need to rough up the paint as mentioned before recoating..... this way you avoid delamination, because the paint has teeth to adhere to....

Allan

[47Plymouth]

Those round headed bolts that hold the gas pedal are available, but can't remember the name of the company. Someone on this forum gave me the info. If you can't come up with it by this weekend i will be home and look it up. 47 Plymouth

[Young Ed]

Search for ball studs at www.mcmastercarr.com I ordered both sizes they have and used the smaller size in my pickup. I think it was 10MM. In my coupe I have ball studs off a late 90s GM car. They were under the hood to hold the hood shocks in place.