electronic ignition questions

[flattiefreak]

Hello folks, My 1958 plymouth 230 flathead is running perfectly now, and i have been thinking of adding electronic ignition. I only have limited funds, so im trying to find the cheapest route possible. I have heard of taking a dist off some newer model vehichle,and adapting it to fit in the flathead block. I have also heard of Pertronix. Please help me determine which electronic ignition source would be good for my car. The engine is completely stock except for a GM one wire alternator. This has the 12 volt negitive ground ignition.

thank you

[Young Ed]

If you have limited funds and your engine is running perfectly why change anything? I've heard enough negatives about both systems to stay with what I got.

[greg g]

Since you are 12v already, you might want to consider swapping the second gen of MOPAR electronic suite from a /6. I small bit of machining on the dizzy body where it meets the block, and a swap of drive tangs is about all the non bolt on that is required.

Should be available as a complet set up from the bone yard.

Use the search here for slant 6 distributor or electronic ignition and you should get a bunch of stuff as it has been discussed.

You might also want to go to the /6.org forum and have a look at the info there.

I think the deal is to stay away from the early lean burn engines, but I am not sure of the year the switch was made.

The pertornix stuff is listed under Massey Ferguson combines in the Agricultural part of their catalog, be sure to check the foot notes as they have both 6V+ and 12V - setups.

I think you need to specify whether is ad IAT or IAG number.

[RobertKB]

If you have limited funds and your engine is running perfectly why change anything? I've heard enough negatives about both systems to stay with what I got.

Ditto!

[flattiefreak]

The reason I am wanting to swap to elctronic ignition is that I hear they are more reliable than points. When I say I have limited funds, I meant I dont want to spend an arm and leg. This is not something I plan on doing tomorrow. I am just curious.

[RobertKB]

Last time I changed points in my '48 they had over 14,000 miles on them and I don't believe I adjusted them once. They were not that bad but I changed them just for reassurance's sake. I would let sleeping dogs lie if I was you. My thoughts for what they are worth and they may not be worth much.

[Norm's Coupe]

I agree with those who said let a sleeping dog sleep. If the car is running great now, why mess with a good thing? I know some people swear by the electronic ignition switch. But........I've also heard some real horror stories about them. So.........if it were my car, I'd just leave it as it is now. If somewhere down the road I start having a lot of problems, then I might consider changing things.

Edited December 22, 2009 by Norm's Coupe

[greg g]

The one redeeming feature of points is that you can almost always effect a limp home mode with a screw driver, a nail file, and a match book. (remove, clean and gap) with electronic, it's like bread, once it's toast, it ain't never gonna be bread again.

I guess it depends on how much you are gonna drive, and how much maintenence your are gonna ignore. If your drive you car 3K a year, it will be three or four years between replacement adjustment. If its a daily driver, going 12to 15 k a year, perhaps it's worthwhile. Hard starting problems with properly adjusted points will usually have causes an electronic system won't cure any way.

I have heard from several people who went with pertornix that they had problems. and several others who have had no trouble at all.

Guess you gotta due your dilegence and decide whats best for your situation.

Most people thing HEI means high energy ignition when it actually refers to Hall effect iduction, the use of magnetic or optical trigers to fire the coil rather than mechaical means.

Edited December 22, 2009 by greg g

[Don Coatney]

One other option is converting to dual points. I have done so with no regrets. Benefit is increased dwell and that equates to more coil saturation time resulting in higher spark.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Pertronix..there are those that swear at it..those that swear by it..my take is this...when it goes bad, what street corner supply has one to get you home with...

[flattiefreak]

I think Im going to just leave it alone. I thank you guys for your opinions.

[TJM70's_48]

Prior to buying my Plymouth last year, it had been 20 or so years since I had driven / worked on anything with points...I had forgotten all about them.

The strongest case made for keeping the points is this: they don't often fail completely right away...you can maybe make it home on failing points but you won't make it home with a failed electronic ignition.

I learned this when the points failed in our car over the summer...I had a troublsome and very intermittent miss...the points were relatively new, put in by last owner about a year prior...gradually the miss got worse until I barely chugged home one night...

It took me a while to figure out the points...after I checked every other component of the ignition and replaced the coil...even those small wires in the distributor...

Anyway, the old timers who have sage wisdom beyond my experience or years know how to set points with a match book and time their cars by ear and from memory...maybe I"ll never get that good but the system does work and even when it's problematic, it shouldn't leave you stranded.

Just my .02

[Young Ed]

Very good point. The only trouble I have had with my points is after checking them this summer. They had about 10K miles on them so I took a look. Got them reset and car all tuned etc. I didn't realize it but the screw for them had stripped. After a few 100 miles into the trip they started to open up. I drove about 100 miles home with the car chugging and back firing. By the time I got close to home I could only go about 30. But I was still going. Inspection the next day showed the points open about .040 I believe thats double what they should be.