Freeze Plugs??

[jmooner3]

Anyone got a trick - Best way to get freeze plugs out?

[Jim Gaspard]

Remove water distribution tube. In this photo I put water pump back on to force water out of plug openings. There are numerous posts on the Forum regarding this procedure. Use Search feature. I drove a screwdriver into each plug and then twisted them out. Used a clotheshanger wire to loosen all the rusty crude and then forced a hose into each portal with high pressure water. Plugs are available at Napa or O'Reilly - Dorman 550-023.

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[Merle Coggins]

I usually run a screw through the center of them, then grip the head of the screw with a Vice-Grip. You can then hook a pry bar under the Vice-Grip jaws and pry them out.

Merle

[JoelOkie]

A 1/4" lag bolt screwed into a drilled hole works like what Merle does also, and has a nice big head to pry out on.

.

Jay, have you removed the water distribution TUBE that is located in the half moon hole behind the waterpump? Hope it came out better for you than mine did! Mine in my Dodge truck came out in small chunks and pieces, in spite of trying various combinations of all the tried and true methods I had read about. No big pieces past the first couple of inches for me. I made a very long chisel from some heavy strap iron and resorted to surgical removal. In the end I welded a fairly large sharp pointed, woolie threaded screw to one end of a 3' piece of 1/4" pencil rod, welded a "T" handle on the other end, and was then able to reach back into the block, stick and twist, and "grab" stuck chunks with the screw and yank them out. I was sure sweating it with the new tube about there being anything left in the way, but it slid in easy right up to the front of the block. Joel

Edited December 3, 2009 by JoelOkie
spelling

[TodFitch]

I used self-drilling, self-tapping sheet metal screws: With the electric screw driver they go in quite easily. Leave the head proud of the plug surface by enough to get the claw end of a carpenter's hammer under it and pry it out. Takes almost as little time to do as to write it up.

[DollyDodge]

I took a dremel tool with a cut off wheel, cut a slot in the center of the plug, drove a screwdriver in the slot, and pried the screwdriver down and the plug popped out easy. On a couple of the plugs as soon as I cut the slot the pug loosened up and came out easily

[Don Coatney]

[knighthawk]

use a punch (screwdriver) drive it in towards the bottom (or top) of the plug to turn it, then pull it out with a visegrip.

[Charles Furman]

Now let's discuss putting in new freeze plugs with the engine still in the truck. I need to replace freeze plugs, but don't need to pull the engine.

[grey beard]

Charles,

I did a complete engine overhaul on my truck with the block sitting in the frame, so these plugs should be a no-brainer for you. You'll need to pull the starter and generator, mebby, to get to them. Otherewise, the biggie here is to get the lower left (driver's) side of the block water jacket cleaned out as completely as possible. I made an extension on my shop air blow gun with a piece of copper tubing that I could bend around to get at many angles to blow the crud free. like Jim said, use whatever works for you - coat hanger, water pressure, etc. Seems like this area around the petcock is the lowest part of the block water jacket, and is the spot where all the crud likes to collect. Amazing what sixty years of service will collect in an old block.

By the bye, gents, these plugs are NOT freeze plugs. This is a misnomer. They are block core plugs, put there in the manufacturing process to get the sand out of the casting after the block was poured in the forge. While they could possibly pop out on a freeze condition, please don't bet the farm on this happening in lieu of antifreeze protection. I have seen a block crack in a straight line past three of these plugs, all of which stayed in place - this on a 22 degree fall night. Not a pretty site, believe me.

When you install your new block core plugs, make sure to use some #1 hardening type Permatex sealer. That's what the stuff was made for.

Good Luck

[Jim Gaspard]

I'm adding this obvious step only because it hasn't been mentioned yet---use a small ball peen hammer thrust into the center of the plug to set it back in the opening, just enough to make a dimple. A little more difficult with the engine in, but do-able. Adding Grey Beard's Permatex hardener gives added insurance to prevent a spontaneous pop-out. Since our cooling system is not pressurized, there should be very little cause for this happening.

[jmooner3]

Thanks guys - drilled the hole, threaded in screw, grabbed with vise grips, and popped them out.

[Don Coatney]

Charles,

I did a complete engine overhaul on my truck with the block sitting in the frame,

They are block core plugs, put there in the manufacturing process to get the sand out of the casting after the block was poured in the forge. .

Good Luck

Dave;

You are correct they are not freeze plugs but core plugs.

Another misnomer is the term overhaul. Rebuild fits the bill much better. I cringe whenever I see the term overhaul as it has no meaning to me for making reairs.

o·ver·haul (vr-hôl, vr-hôl)

tr.v. o·ver·hauled, o·ver·haul·ing, o·ver·hauls

1.

a. To examine or go over carefully for needed repairs.

b. To dismantle in order to make repairs.

Making reairs is a rebuild.

[grey beard]

Mr. Coatnie,

Why, you sir, are abso-cotton-pickin'-lootly rahhht. . . . . Ya' ARE gettin' grumpier! Wassamatter,'u? Clothes too tight? Urinary tract (gulp) actin' up agin? Or is it jest the season?

The term "overhaul" has been accepted mechanical jargon in the automotive industry since Hector was a . . . . . well, you get the drift. Cat and Cummins even differentiate between "in-frame" and "out-of-frame" overhauls, the latter, of course being infinitely preferable. Mebby' you'all money changers don't laack it, but it's been a major part of our vocabulary lo, these many years. Why, my antique tractor buddies even talked laack that there in Tennessee, last taham Ah viahsyted all y'all.

All y'alluns do have an extra special fahan Holiday season now, y'heah? And . . . . . . hang one on . . . the tree for me, too.

[desoto1939]

After putting the engine back to gether and after installing antifreeze also install a pint of Rust Inhibitor into the radiator. Tjis willalso help lubricate the water pump and also help with some rust buildup. I do this every year just before the winter time.

The anti rust inhibtors are what breakdown in the antifreeze over time. Even in modern cars this is why you need to drop the antifreeze every several years.

rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[grey beard]

Rich, you are right on, here.

The Ph of coolant gets very acidic over time and many heat/cool cycles. Only way to get it where it belongs is to either change coolant or sweeten it up with cooling system addative.

Please don't even think of looking for this stuff at Wally-World - or even auto parts counters. Don't know why, but the only place I have ever been able to find it is at heavy truck shops or truck stops. Business men who own fleets and owner operators know about this stuff, and all use it regularly. Merle Coggins can speak to this better than I.

I go to my local Volvo dealership at Ephrata and buy Perry coolant addative. A half gallon jug at $8 bukzz will service five vehicles and accomplish the same thing that changing antifreeze that costs $11 a gallon will accomplish. Like the lady sez, you do the math . . . .