aero3113 Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 I received my drum from wayfarerstranger today:D.Thanks again Chance.I know this has been discussed before but what should I do. I do not want to run into the same problem with removing the drum in the future. Quote
aero3113 Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Posted October 16, 2009 how about a light coat of lithium grease? Quote
Young Ed Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 I would go buy some antisieze compound. Quote
Young Ed Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Oh I am assuming you mean the tapered axle not the spindle right? Quote
dezeldoc Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 As Ed said light coat of anti seize. Quote
greg g Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Uh id your talking the rear axle, you don't wanna put anything on it. The design depends on the friction of the tapered surfaces for proper working of the pieces. Otherwise all the load is tansfered tot he key and nut. Quote
kencombs Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Is right on! It's not supposed to come off, easy or not Quote
aero3113 Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Posted October 16, 2009 yea I agree but your also not supposed to bend the hub when using a puller on it. Quote
greg g Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 Take another track on this. While it is apart, take the drums and hubs to a machine shop. Have them remove the rivets holding the drum to the hub and seperate them. Then have them drill out the lug bolt threads and press in some half inch lug studs. Now reassemble the hub to the axle with the key and the nut and the cotter key, torqued to the proper load. Now slip the drums over the new lug bolts. If you want to you could slip a couple of spring nuts over two studs, but its not necessary. Now put you wheel and tire on and tighten your new lug nuts. They will center and retain the drum on the hub just like a grown up modern car. Next time you need to service the brakes you just pull off the nuts, the wheel and the spring nuts if used and remove the drum, leaving the hub and axle in place. If you need to service seals, bearings and axles, you have the hub to pull the axle out with. Quote
RobertKB Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 If you have not done so already, clean all rust of the axle and the new hub you must got. I would not put anything on your axle, just leave it dry. Quote
Normspeed Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 Having just recently removed all 4 drums twice, first for inspection then for a thorough cleaning with brakleen plus some adjustment tweaks, I gotta hear more, Greg. Anything that makes this easier is good info. After being reassembled for only 3 weeks or so, it still took an impact wrench followed by a BFH and Tee-adaptor to get them loose again. Your method hadn't entered my mind before, but it sure sounds lke a great one time fix. Have you tried this on your car? Pics? Take another track on this. While it is apart, take the drums and hubs to a machine shop. Have them remove the rivets holding the drum to the hub and seperate them. Then have them drill out the lug bolt threads and press in some half inch lug studs.Now reassemble the hub to the axle with the key and the nut and the cotter key, torqued to the proper load. Now slip the drums over the new lug bolts. If you want to you could slip a couple of spring nuts over two studs, but its not necessary. Now put you wheel and tire on and tighten your new lug nuts. They will center and retain the drum on the hub just like a grown up modern car. Next time you need to service the brakes you just pull off the nuts, the wheel and the spring nuts if used and remove the drum, leaving the hub and axle in place. If you need to service seals, bearings and axles, you have the hub to pull the axle out with. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 I separated all four hubs and drums in 1995 and have been very happy. Brake work is a snap. You can inspect for peace of mind without any heavy lifting. No it does not cause a misalignment problem between the hubs and the drums. Quote
greg g Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 Norm I haven't done mine I'm still riding a good brake job done 6 years ago. If I live long enough to need brake work again, I will address those changes then. Quote
Normspeed Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 There's some good info in this thread. Robert, I admit, I haven't recently tried the dry axle approach, but thus far I could say that either way it is a pain to break those drums loose. This last go-round had me daydreaming about that mustang rear brake swap... If you have not done so already, clean all rust of the axle and the new hub you must got. I would not put anything on your axle, just leave it dry. Quote
dezeldoc Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 Guaranteed a little anti seize won't interfere with the correct seating of the axle and hub. Quote
greg g Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 Why Mustang stuff??? Don't later model MOPAR backing plates bolt up???? And in either case wouldn't you need to change the axle hub also, Just do the update mentioned above. Quote
teardrop puller Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 Greg G Best idea I have heard. kai Quote
RobertKB Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 I guess I am just lucky as I have never had the problems mentioned in this thread. Even on cars that have been sitting on the ground, I have had minimal resistance and trouble. Maybe it's the relatively dry climate I live in. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 (edited) I guess I am just lucky as I have never had the problems mentioned in this thread. Even on cars that have been sitting on the ground, I have had minimal resistance and trouble. Maybe it's the relatively dry climate I live in. I had trouble getting them off the first time around. However, now mine are like Robert's. They come off real easy. I didn't use anything on them when I put them back on the car. Don't think being in a dry area makes any difference either. I certainly don't live in a dry area, and I park the car on concrete year round. I think it only becomes a problem getting those things off after the car has sat for many years without moving. Once you get them off, they should come off without any trouble after that. Edited October 17, 2009 by Norm's Coupe Quote
DutchEdwin Posted October 18, 2009 Report Posted October 18, 2009 Don't know who has mentioned this before (I think is was still on the old plymouh forum way back) but an other trick that should help is loosen the bolts a bit, drive the car around the block, then the drums should come off easy. Haven't tried it myself, when I did my brakes, I ended up with one drum unround a bit because of the force of heat or combination of both I had to use. Quote
aero3113 Posted October 18, 2009 Author Report Posted October 18, 2009 Guaranteed a little anti seize won't interfere with the correct seating of the axle and hub. I think I am going to use a little bit of anti seize for piece of mind. Quote
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