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simple steering gear question


DLK

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I got my Penlite Steering Gear lube via UPS today which I hope will slow my leak. I took the oil filler plug off to see how low my gear was and there still is a surprising amount of gear lube in it (you'd never know it by the pool on my garage floor).

My question is what serves as the drain plug? Is it the screw on the lower left that goes into the housing cover? I want to get as much of the thinner lube out as I can before refilling it.

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They say you can remove some of the shims, and that will tighten up your loose steering some. Anyone done that?

Yes, this winter I pulled the steering box out of the car and made all the adjustments on the bench. I also replaced the seal on the bottom hoping that would stop the leak but to no avail.

I'm thinking of replacing the oil with grease.

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Yes, this winter I pulled the steering box out of the car and made all the adjustments on the bench. I also replaced the seal on the bottom hoping that would stop the leak but to no avail.

I'm thinking of replacing the oil with grease.

This Penlite product is $15 a bottle but if it slows the leak it will be worth it. I will let you know.

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They say if you put grease in the steering box, it eventually gets slung over to the

sides and is not so much on the gears. I put some grease in mine, but could not

tell much difference in how it acted. Have considered now putting in some liquid

stuff and maybe the grease will act as a leak stopper.

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My personal feeling is that grease inside any steering box will not get slung very far. Nothing moves very fast inside these boxes, unlike transmission gear boxes and differentials, where centrifugal forces could affect any lub present.

Older style 8-N Ford tractors had a steering box design that often allowed the lub to leak out. When this happened, everything wore out pretty fast, until there was enough wear that it allowed the steering column ball bearings to fall out of their cages and go down between the worm and sector gears. Then when someone muscled the steering wheel, the box casting would break. This bearing was the one just beneath the steering wheel in the top of the box. When we got these tractors in the vo-tech school where I taught, they were often broken.

We'd clean 'em up and have the welding shop press them back into shape where they split, and then weld 'em back together. Then we would put all new bearings in them and adjust them correctly. We always filled them with either Pure STP or EP lithium grease, because no gear lube would stay in them very long - that was the reason they failed in the first place - going dry completely.

Having said all that, I realize that 8-N Ford tractors that have millions of wear hours on them are a far cry from anything that travels down the road at highway speed, purely from a safety facor. But I also believe I'd rather have lithium grease in my steering box than have a box that leaks the fluid out and runs dry. JMHO

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none..it all involves a bit of reconfiguartion and welding of brackets..and truth be know when it comes to connecting to the sector of the rack..altering your stock tube is a necessity..doing this without pernament damge..don't see how myself...if you entertain this idea with reservations and hope to return to stock someday maybe..get a donor column..the welds can be removed with a bit of cut and grind..

PS be sure to get some aftermarket special made steering arms for the uprights or a set to bend and alter..

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What rack /pinion setup can be used on the P15 without changeing the all

the front end, better question what parts are needed to change over. Jim

Cavalier rack is the mentioned for mopars on the Hamb, nothing goes on something its not designed for without mods..seems the current gripe is that about 3/4 of an inch needs to be removed from your stock steering arms in order to get full wheel to wheel turning. Otherwise you will have put up with a wider radius than stock,

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Just to add to the slight veer in the conversation to the Cavalier rack and pinion conversion: Fatman Fabrications makes the kit to install this. It is specifically set up for the '46-'48 Dodges and Plymouths, but they say it can be modified for 49-52 or perhaps later.

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