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Posted

Push comes to shove, you can always drill a new hole weld in a new bung with ite own nice new plug. Probably need to remove the pan and have it done somewhere but its an option.

Posted

If you have a dremel tool you could use a cutoff wheel with that. It's much smaller for closeup working. That's what I use to cut off bolts, etc. when I can't get at them with the larger grinder or cutoff tool or, to make a head squared off, or slot it. Just takes a little longer with the small wheel on the dremel. Just make sure you wear eye protection. Those little dremel wheels do break easily and go flying when they do.

Posted

If its diveable take it to a muffler shop and have them weld a nut onto the plug so you can get a wrench on it. They will do it with a wire feed welder and can do it without much heat

Posted

Drill a 1/2" hole in it and drain it, then try an EZ out, or just tap it to 3/8 pipe and put a plug in it. or last resort try a air chisle!

Posted

Some progress, I was able too use the cut off wheel and made the nut square,(had to stop grand daughter in for nap) Went to Sears and got the bolt out set like Norm's Pic - 5 Pcs largest 3/4" on sale $9.99 Next I'll

mark the bolt with a bolt pattern and finish it too fit the bolt out fitting.

Sat. I'll try to find a large Pan Plug probably 1" and get some Muscle over too

take a shot at the plug. I'll post the results. Thanks to All Jim

Posted

There's also this socket that works wonders, I think its called "alligator" or something, got it at a Fleet N Farm. Its a large socket with metal rods on the inside. They push in to conform around whatever shape surface. Has handled some hard pulls with the wrench to loosen bolts and such. Was about 20 bucks three years ago.

Posted

I would think now that you got it square you could put an open end wrench on it. Hold the wrench against the nut with your palm and push or hit the wrench with the other. Don't forget to try the metric ones incase one is a better fit.

Posted

Finally, the last post I had the cut off wheel and made the plug square today I worked on it and got it to 6 point and used the bolt-out 3/4". It came out so easy, I guess it was all that grinding.I took the plug over to Car Quest and showed him the plug, he went in the back and came out with the same plug, the screw size is 7/8' the bolt head size is 1 1/8" There is only about 1'4" too grip the plug and I only have 1 1/8" 16 point socket for next time. Ran car no leaks in oil or water (changed all Hose) Oil Press at Idle was 40 Lb no smoke and ran quiet. Tie rod ends next.

Thanks again for the support. Jim

Posted
This is a picture of the oil plug in the 54 model engine in my early 49 P15.

Not the best pic for your problem. But, this is how mine is made.

Maybe yours is similar.

Seems like it was rather a pain to get it out.

100_1381.jpg

Bob,

Isn't that a brake master cylinder plug off a 1946 to 54 MoPar car ? I guess one of those could fit the oil pan to replace the drain plug.

Bob

Posted
Bob,

Isn't that a brake master cylinder plug off a 1946 to 54 MoPar car ? I guess one of those could fit the oil pan to replace the drain plug.

Bob

I was thinking the same thing...

Pete

Posted
Don't the MC caps have a little air bleeder hole in them? It would let oil leak out.

I'm think I'm going to put one in one of my cars and test the vent hole for oil leakage.

Bob

Posted

Hmmm.....maybe that item in the picture is the master cyl cap.

Thought it was what came from the oil pan......but perhaps not.

Didn't mark the picture when put it in the album.

Next time I remove the cap from the master, will look at it.

***Just went out to the garage--took this cap off a spare master cyl.

It does have a small hole on one corner of the "nut" area.

100_2542.jpg

The bottom looks like this.

100_2544.jpg

So, I posted the wrong picture.....not an oil pan plug after all.

Thanks for pointing that out, Bob.

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