moparjim83 Posted February 9, 2009 Report Posted February 9, 2009 R.E. e-body mopar sway bar versus stock: the key is the relative diameter of the bars and the effectiveness of the links used. The bar i used was 1" in diameter. If the stock bar is the same dia. i wouls expect simular results. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 9, 2009 Report Posted February 9, 2009 You can see it peeking out from under the grill. I haven't measured but I bet the stock bar is close to an inch Quote
Merle Coggins Posted February 9, 2009 Report Posted February 9, 2009 Actually ya I think I was supposed to grab a pair out of the junkyard. I'm pretty sure that can still be arranged come warmer weather I've got a set of truck upper shock mounts. I just ran across them again this weekend. $25 for the set. First come, first serve... Merle Quote
blueskies Posted February 9, 2009 Report Posted February 9, 2009 I've got a set of truck upper shock mounts. I just ran across them again this weekend. $25 for the set. First come, first serve...Merle PM sent... Pete Quote
james curl Posted February 9, 2009 Report Posted February 9, 2009 Young Ed, Wrong the stock sway bar is .67 Dia, I just measured mine. moparjim83 Is "E" body Dart, Duster, Challenger Barracuda? If so didn't they use the cross bar torsion suspension where the sway bar mounts in a bracket with a rubber bushing to the lower strut? I think you posted a picture of yours showing a link attaching system to your lower A arms, could you post again and tell us which car it came off of. To most of us A,B,C,D,& E Body doesn't mean much. Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 10, 2009 Report Posted February 10, 2009 Cuda and challenger E-body Quote
moparjim83 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Posted February 10, 2009 MOPAR A bodies; 1964-76 Valient,Duster, Dart, demon, Swinger. 1964-69 Barracuda. MOPAR B bodies; 1962-64 330, 440, polara, coronet,savoy, satellite, road runner. 1962-79 Charger, GTX, Belvedere, super b, cordoba. 1976-78 fury. 1977-78 Monaco. MOPAR C bodies; 1962-78 Imperial, New Yorker, Newport, Polara, Monaco, Fury I,II,III and GT. 1988 Dynasty and New Yorker MOPAR E bodies; 1970-74 Barracuda and Challenger MOPAR F bodies; 1976-80 Aspen, Volare. Just some general info about mopar body ID. I will post some photos of my front suspension showing my E body sway bar soon. Quote
moparjim83 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Posted February 10, 2009 Oops, forgot the MOPAR J bodies! How could I? had a race car with a replica J body. 1980-83 Mirada and Cordoba. 1987-88 Lebaron. In answer to your question about cross bar cars, to the best of my knowledge, only the F and J cars were so equiped. The rest of the cars were all longitudinal bar. A, B, and C body cars all had different length bars of 35.7", 41", and I think 43". Quote
james curl Posted February 10, 2009 Report Posted February 10, 2009 Thanks, post a picture. Where could a person purchase an E body sway bar, are they available through MoPar parts suppliers? Trying to find a junk E body car in this part of the country would be hard to do, I have a buddy who is doing a Challenger. It was probably a rare car, 225 slant six with a floor shifted three speed. He has completely gutted the car to the bare shell and install a new trunk floor, painted every thing inside and out and will install a modified 360 MoPar and automatic trans, will probably be his last rebuild as he turns 77 in March and said he still has about 1 1/2 to 2 more years to finish to show car phase. He built a charger RT 440 clone and the person that bought it put it in the old car trader as an original car, not a clone. He was told it was a clone and priced as a clone not an original car. He does the complete thing, all the marks, cork valvecover gaskets painted engine color, build sheet as if it were an original car to show. I could have called him about what car is which body style as he only cares about MoPar muscle cars and not any old MoPar before the V8's came out.. Quote
moparjim83 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Posted February 11, 2009 www.firmfeel.com in vancouver Wa. will build you anything you want. There is just nothing in the bone yards anywhere. Its all gone to Barrett-Jackson. I recently saw a raty 70 dodge slant 6 4 dr. automatic listed for sale as "numbers matching". When I get my Hemmings I take out the ads for the auctions and burn them!! Anyway, I'll try to get a picture out tomarrow cause I'm going out of town for acouple weeks. Quote
moparjim83 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Posted February 12, 2009 posting acouple pictures of my front suspension. I have Fat Man spindles and their shock relocation kit. Did'nt like their sugestions for steering arms so I fabed up a set of my own using 1.125" round stock. The sway bar is .875" and came off my 73 cuda. My car corners really flat, hardly any lean at all, of course it can't lean much, its only about 3"off the ground. lol. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 12, 2009 Report Posted February 12, 2009 That doesn't sound like an inch to me Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Posted February 12, 2009 Tonight I finished installing the '37 Plymouth shock mounts on the driver's side of my '41 P12. Having done the passenger side helped me install this side in less time. Now I have to install two new front tires and wait for drier weather to give it a try. Jim Yergin Quote
HughForrest Posted February 15, 2009 Report Posted February 15, 2009 R.E. e-body mopar sway bar versus stock: the key is the relative diameter of the bars and the effectiveness of the links used. The bar i used was 1" in diameter. If the stock bar is the same dia. i wouls expect simular results. With numerous mods to the front of my '37 Chrysler w/the early IFS, and the fact that at the time I couldn't find an OE sway bar and links in good condition anyway, I had a local fab place (run by a guy who is into old cars) make me a custom sway bar. I took a piece of welding rod and bent it to the shape I wanted. I could only do half the bar at a time because of the length. I let the welding rod represent the center of the sway bar-to-be, then drew it onto big paper with measurements, and did a mirror image on the other side to give me a complete full sized drawing. I did side views the same way. On the advice of the guy at the fab shop I went with 3/4" diameter. I can't recall the type of steel he recommended right now. 3/4" is bigger than OE, which was around 1/2", so he also recommended reinforcing the frame rails in the area of the attachment, which I did. For sway links and attaching bushings I used new "Energy Suspension" stuff from the LPS (local parts store). If I remember right I ended up spending a bit over $200 for the whole project, and am very happy with the results. Subsequently a nos swaybar with fresh links and bushings came my way. It stands forgotten and lonely in the corner of the garage. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 19, 2009 Author Report Posted February 19, 2009 Took the car on an 80 mile roundtrip today. The combination of the relocated front shocks, two new front tires and a front end alignment made a notable difference in how the car handled. I am very pleased. Now it is on to repairing the overdrive and getting that working. Jim Yergin Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 19, 2009 Report Posted February 19, 2009 Jim; It is good to hear that you (after all the years you spent working on it) are driving and enjoying your car. Eighty miles today, eight hundred tomorrow. I can see the grin on your face.... Quote
greg g Posted February 19, 2009 Report Posted February 19, 2009 good to hear things have worked out. Is the shock deal a noticable difference or a day and night thing? Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted February 19, 2009 Report Posted February 19, 2009 I have new(er) gas shocks, plus recently had a n-o-s sway bar installed, and can't tell much difference in the handling over what it had been. The shocks help with the small bumps, but I still get the bigger movements. So, do you have to get a longer shock if relocating the mounts? Not sure what was said about that. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Posted February 20, 2009 good to hear things have worked out. Is the shock deal a noticable difference or a day and night thing? Not a night and day difference but much improved. I have new(er) gas shocks, plus recently had a n-o-s sway bar installed,and can't tell much difference in the handling over what it had been. The shocks help with the small bumps, but I still get the bigger movements. So, do you have to get a longer shock if relocating the mounts? Not sure what was said about that. Yes, I had to get longer shocks. The Gabriel part number is posted earlier in this thread. They are actually made for CJ Jeeps. Jim Yergin Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Posted February 20, 2009 Jim;It is good to hear that you (after all the years you spent working on it) are driving and enjoying your car. Eighty miles today, eight hundred tomorrow. I can see the grin on your face.... Thanks Don, I wasn't sure it could be seen that far away. Jim Yergin Quote
blueskies Posted February 20, 2009 Report Posted February 20, 2009 A pair of truck shock mounts arrived at my door a couple of days ago, from Merle Coggins. Looks like I have a project at hand... Now to get the shocks. Looking forward to feeling the difference... Pete Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Posted February 20, 2009 Pete, I will be interested to hear about your installation. Jim Yergin Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 21, 2009 Report Posted February 21, 2009 this thread is just what i needed... will help me a lot on the lowering topic! so, what you said about the shocks is that a pair of gas types, like from kanters for example, wouldn't fit the standart setup? i will go scan ebay now for a pair of mounts:) Quote
YukonJack Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 Yes, I had to get longer shocks. The Gabriel part number is posted earlier in this thread. They are actually made for CJ Jeeps. Jim Yergin I'm curious why you used Jeep shocks instead of the Chevy pick up shocks. Quote
realgonekatt Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 Great thread, I remember similar shock mounts on a 47 dodge p/u that I sold to buy my p-15 project. figures:rolleyes: Im definitely doing this mod but, I plan on taking about 2-2 1/2" outta the front suspension first. anyone with a similar rig, that has any shock application suggestions? Quote
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