plymouth49 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Posted December 2, 2008 I have used an early ('67) Camaro rear on a 50 Plymouth. The perches are in the right spot. You just have to make new shackle plates and U-bolts, and weld in shock mounts. I used another '67 Camaro rear on a 2WD '48 Willys station wagon. Same deal; slipped right onto the stock springs. OT but what the heck. Quote
brian hood Posted December 2, 2008 Report Posted December 2, 2008 If I used a Dakota Rear, how do I set the angle? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 2, 2008 Report Posted December 2, 2008 by matching that of your original when you place the perches on the donor axle and weld in place. Let me go a bit further...I use an angle meter that is magnetic and affix it to the face of the input pinion with the car on the ground and static loaded..also be sure that the perch angle is checked at this point due to the age and wear on the leaves.....then when you have matched the angle of the pinion and perches...weld them in place.. Quote
hkestes41 Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 Seems like several folks have used the 89-90 Dakota rear. I have a line on a decently priced rear from a 90 4x4. For the 89-90 Dakota Rear are the 2wd and 4 wd rears the same? Which is the right one for the swap into a P15? Quote
greg g Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 It is likely the 4wd set ups have higher numeric gear sets. And for the ford folks, some ford cars, t birds. licols. big mercs used a 5 x5 ich lug bolt pattern. As attested to byt he 80 something t bird rear end in my studebaker truck upon which I am using the GM 5x5 light truck wheels. Just to confuse things a bi more. While you are looking at rear end options. you can put ranger/mazda b series on the list also as well as exploder/mountainer and tribute. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 They are the same there is one ratio thats 2x4 only. Quote
Reg Evans Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 Has anyone tried any of the swaps on a 1948 1/2 ton pickup? Anything just a bolt n or do they all need spring perch moved? Nice info. About 9 years ago I installed a 3.0 rear end from a 66 T-Bird in my 52 1/2 ton. Had to move the perches and have a new drive shaft made. I also installed a Chrysler 251 for more hp to help get the truck rolling with the 3.0 rear. Quote
Fireball Posted February 25, 2009 Report Posted February 25, 2009 I just put early 90's Jeep Cherokees Dana under my D-24. Fits like a glove, 3.54 ratio and limited slip. Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 25, 2009 Report Posted February 25, 2009 You still had to change the spring perch location didn't you? How about the pinion angle? I can get one of these pretty easy in the midwest, they are all rusted out by now.... Thanks PS 2 or 4wd rear? Quote
Fireball Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 2wd it is. I fabricated new perches, (you can also purchase them but I'm cheap) cut off the oldies and welded in the new ones. Springs are set a bit wider in our cars. I also had to get rid off the Jeep shock attaching plates in axle and reused the originals from my car that go in with U-bolts. I mocked up everything in place under the car, and set the pinion nose down with angle finder and then welded the perches under the car. This way I also ensured the axle was centered correctly. Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 Thanks Fireball, wouldn't it be kool if something on our cars just slid right in the first time! Quote
PatS.... Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 If I used a Dakota Rear, how do I set the angle? I do it the low-tech way. Get two cinder blocks, set them on end. Set the OLD rear end on the blocks upside down on the spring perches, then measure and record the distance from the center of the u-joint to the floor.. For the "new" rear end, set the loose new spring perches on the blocks, set the new rear end in them, center them, and set the center of the u-joint to match the earlier measurement to the floor. Mark or tack the perches in place, and permanently weld them in. You'll end up with the same pinion angle as the old rear end. Simple and works well. Quote
old woolie Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 I do it the low-tech way. Get two cinder blocks, set them on end. Set the OLD rear end on the blocks upside down on the spring perches, then measure and record the distance from the center of the u-joint to the floor.. For the "new" rear end, set the loose new spring perches on the blocks, set the new rear end in them, center them, and set the center of the u-joint to match the earlier measurement to the floor. Mark or tack the perches in place, and permanently weld them in. You'll end up with the same pinion angle as the old rear end. Simple and works well. Good stuff, simple and makes perfect sense. Quote
glendale Posted February 28, 2009 Report Posted February 28, 2009 i also put a cherokee rearend in my 51. fit like a glove. Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 28, 2009 Report Posted February 28, 2009 Do any of the cherokees have rear discs? Quote
rearview Posted February 28, 2009 Report Posted February 28, 2009 A grand cherokee had optional rear disks, but are set up for coil springs only. Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 28, 2009 Report Posted February 28, 2009 Could you just remove the coil set up and install the spring perches instead, if it sounds too simple, it probably is... Quote
wayfarer Posted February 28, 2009 Report Posted February 28, 2009 A cutting torch and grinder makes the coil spring perch go away. New perches for leaf springs are available just about everywhere. . Quote
glendale Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 regardless of the rearend you buy you will have to move the spring perches so if you want disks don't let that sway your decision. Quote
rearview Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 Grand Cherokee rears are hit or miss. The Dana 35's are wimpy... crappy weak C-clip axles... so if you've got a big motor, I'd think twice. Recipe for disaster. The Dana 44's are stronger, but there was a load of problems with the aluminum versions.... bearing bores misalignments, easy to score, tubes out of alignment, etc. You can take a non-grand cherokee D44 and add the Grand's rear disks, or there are kits to add them to the D35, 8.25's etc. Check the Jeep boards for info. There are a zillion different ways to do it. Better and stronger swap is the explorer disk brake rear. Stronger and the better brakes are there already. Plentiful in the boneyards.. usually 3.73's and easy to find with factory limited slips. Last one I got for $75 on half price day at pick 'n pull.... 3.73's and limited slip, with driveshaft end. Quote
Frank Elder Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 disc brake ford explorer rearend, what size the bolt pattern? Quote
58prostreet Posted March 2, 2009 Report Posted March 2, 2009 If u use the explorer rear, u might want to makae sure it is a 373. I put a 410 in my 52 Wayfarer, and I wish I had the 373. I have a 5 speed, and 1st is like a granny gear. Bob Quote
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