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Posted

I have used an early ('67) Camaro rear on a 50 Plymouth. The perches are in the right spot. You just have to make new shackle plates and U-bolts, and weld in shock mounts.

I used another '67 Camaro rear on a 2WD '48 Willys station wagon. Same deal; slipped right onto the stock springs. OT but what the heck.

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Posted

by matching that of your original when you place the perches on the donor axle and weld in place. Let me go a bit further...I use an angle meter that is magnetic and affix it to the face of the input pinion with the car on the ground and static loaded..also be sure that the perch angle is checked at this point due to the age and wear on the leaves.....then when you have matched the angle of the pinion and perches...weld them in place..

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Seems like several folks have used the 89-90 Dakota rear. I have a line on a decently priced rear from a 90 4x4. For the 89-90 Dakota Rear are the 2wd and 4 wd rears the same? Which is the right one for the swap into a P15?

Posted

It is likely the 4wd set ups have higher numeric gear sets.

And for the ford folks, some ford cars, t birds. licols. big mercs used a 5 x5 ich lug bolt pattern. As attested to byt he 80 something t bird rear end in my studebaker truck upon which I am using the GM 5x5 light truck wheels.

Just to confuse things a bi more. While you are looking at rear end options. you can put ranger/mazda b series on the list also as well as exploder/mountainer and tribute.

Posted
Has anyone tried any of the swaps on a 1948 1/2 ton pickup? Anything just a bolt n or do they all need spring perch moved?

Nice info.

About 9 years ago I installed a 3.0 rear end from a 66 T-Bird in my 52 1/2 ton. Had to move the perches and have a new drive shaft made. I also installed a Chrysler 251 for more hp to help get the truck rolling with the 3.0 rear.

Posted

You still had to change the spring perch location didn't you? How about the pinion angle? I can get one of these pretty easy in the midwest, they are all rusted out by now....

Thanks

PS 2 or 4wd rear?

Posted

2wd it is. I fabricated new perches, (you can also purchase them but I'm cheap) cut off the oldies and welded in the new ones. Springs are set a bit wider in our cars. I also had to get rid off the Jeep shock attaching plates in axle and reused the originals from my car that go in with U-bolts. I mocked up everything in place under the car, and set the pinion nose down with angle finder and then welded the perches under the car. This way I also ensured the axle was centered correctly.

Posted
If I used a Dakota Rear, how do I set the angle?

I do it the low-tech way.

Get two cinder blocks, set them on end. Set the OLD rear end on the blocks upside down on the spring perches, then measure and record the distance from the center of the u-joint to the floor..

For the "new" rear end, set the loose new spring perches on the blocks, set the new rear end in them, center them, and set the center of the u-joint to match the earlier measurement to the floor.

Mark or tack the perches in place, and permanently weld them in.

You'll end up with the same pinion angle as the old rear end.

Simple and works well.

Posted
I do it the low-tech way.

Get two cinder blocks, set them on end. Set the OLD rear end on the blocks upside down on the spring perches, then measure and record the distance from the center of the u-joint to the floor..

For the "new" rear end, set the loose new spring perches on the blocks, set the new rear end in them, center them, and set the center of the u-joint to match the earlier measurement to the floor.

Mark or tack the perches in place, and permanently weld them in.

You'll end up with the same pinion angle as the old rear end.

Simple and works well.

Good stuff, simple and makes perfect sense.

Posted

A cutting torch and grinder makes the coil spring perch go away. New perches for leaf springs are available just about everywhere.

.

Posted

Grand Cherokee rears are hit or miss.

The Dana 35's are wimpy... crappy weak C-clip axles... so if you've got a big motor, I'd think twice. Recipe for disaster.

The Dana 44's are stronger, but there was a load of problems with the aluminum versions.... bearing bores misalignments, easy to score, tubes out of alignment, etc.

You can take a non-grand cherokee D44 and add the Grand's rear disks, or there are kits to add them to the D35, 8.25's etc. Check the Jeep boards for info. There are a zillion different ways to do it.

Better and stronger swap is the explorer disk brake rear. Stronger and the better brakes are there already. Plentiful in the boneyards.. usually 3.73's and easy to find with factory limited slips. Last one I got for $75 on half price day at pick 'n pull.... 3.73's and limited slip, with driveshaft end.

Posted

If u use the explorer rear, u might want to makae sure it is a 373. I put a 410 in my 52 Wayfarer, and I wish I had the 373. I have a 5 speed, and 1st is like a granny gear.

Bob

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