DrDoctor

Mr Jordan, I can certainly relate to your sentiment—our car’s basically done, but I’m tired of driving it with the thought in the back of my mind that something’s going to go south while we’re out in it, and having to resort to having it towed back home. So far, it’s been reliable, but . . . Getting it fixed at a “regular repair garage” isn’t a viable option around here. So, that leaves me to fix it. It’s been out of the garage this summer zero times. And, as for car shows . . . well, don’t get me started on that subject. There aren’t many days anymore that we don’t toy with the idea of just selling it, but it does make a nice “yard art” item in the garage, but as such—it’s taking up some valuable real estate that I think could be put to better use. Someday we’ll put in the thought effort to resolve this. Regards to you. PS - As an example of how I no longer enjoy working on the car, I've been working on the rebuilding of the vacuum wiper motor for several months, now. I'm at the stage of reassembly, and I've been at that stage alone for well over a month. I've still got to cut the gaskets, and that may take me into next year!!!

Our ’46 Plymouth Special deluxe club coupe was rewired 6v neg ground prior to our acquiring it. Everything worked fine, except the radio—it was toast due to its being grounded thru it’s casing, and the reversed polarity—now we’ve got a burnt lump that was once a radio. The ammeter also functioned backwards, but since the insulation was flaking off of the wiring virtually throughout the car. I rewired it with a Ron Francis harness, keeping it 6v neg ground. Everything works just fine. The ammeter's mechanicals went to the local landfill, and I used its faceplate on a new volt gauge. As for the headlights—I replaced the dimmer 6v units with quartz-halogen sealed beam units—much brighter, and they draw less amps. Everything’s fine now, so . . . it ain’t broke anymore, and therefore, I ain’t fixin’ it.

Question—based upon the photos in this article, I didn’t notice any type of filtering media on the fan housing, so how is the incoming air from the electric fan thru the ducting filtered?

I was scrounging around on our computer, as I recalled having saved some information on this very subject. Here it is: the studs from Jegs, part# 718-823,. ½''-20 x 1½" (UNF) .615'' Knurl. Use a 39/64" drill bit. Be very careful when drilling, as when (not “if” . . .) the bit grabs the hole in the drum, it’ll either spin the drum (if it’s not secured in some manner), or twist the drill right out of your hands (not good either). Use a good cutting-oil, not just motor oil. Patience and perseverance = success. Regards to you . . . PS—Doorman # 610-258.1 97001.1 wheel stud work, but may be abit short with original wheels (the lug studs may not reach all the way thru the lug nuts . . .).

I once had a Cadillac Seville that literally ate its radiator. The problem was electrolysis between the cast-iron engine block, the aluminum radiator, and the anti-freeze coolant. The coolant had to be replaced every 2 years, or the aluminum radiator, being the softer of the two metals, corroded quickly. As a side-bar, it also ate both head gaskets due to the same situation. Cast-iron, and brass and copper, co-exist on a much friendlier manner. On that car, the dealership installed a sacrificial anode that, along with coolant maintenance (even tho’ I had the coolant changed every 5 years rather than every 2 years . . .), eliminated the problem. As such, I’m no fan of aluminum radiators. In our current Cadillac, the dissimilar metals issue isn’t an issue anymore (except for the head gaskets), since the engine is entirely aluminum, as is the radiator.

DutchEdwin, I remember seeing a photo of 2 6v red Optima batteries in a car connected in series in the engine compartment of a vintage Plymouth/Dodge/?????, but cannot, for the life of me, find it again. I’d think someone who visits here frequently would be able to point you in that direction, and perhaps that’d answer your question. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. Regards to you . . .

If you do pull a sparkplug wire to check for spark by holding it near the top of the plug, or near the engine block, DON’T use your bare hand!!! If the coil, and the condenser, are OK, you’ll very likely get a severe shock when the engine’s cranked. So severe that you may wind up being able to see in the dark without illumination . . . . So, be very cautious, and use fibre pliers, or insulated ones. By the way, the car looks VERY nice. Enjoy your new project. Warmest regards . . .

Thom, I certainly don’t recommend you throwing in the towel due to the top material project. You’re obviously more “adventurous” that I am. As such, you have two main alternatives: 1) do the project yourself, taking your time, and proceeding carefully; or 2) farm it out to an upholstery shop. Whichever path you elect to pursue, in the end, you’ll have something the vast majority of people in Germany don’t have—an elderly American car, and a convertible at that, that you brought back to life. Now, does it get much better than that??? Remember, the best part of reaching a goal is the journey (or so I’m told by my wife . . .). Regards . . . .

Thom, You’re correct in that you don’t need a lot of lubricant (whichever product you choose to use). If you’re disassembling/reassembling the vacuum wiper motor, you only have to smear the lubricant in the well where the paddles swing, and the paddle-seals themselves. A drop on the pivot shaft, the park-seal, and any other moving components, is all that’s necessary. However, if you try to lubricate the vacuum wiper motor without disassembling/reassembling it, all you have to do is to put a hose on the vacuum fitting of the wiper motor, place the other end of the hose in small container of automatic transmission fluid, and move the actuator arm several times. That movement will draw in the ATF on the intake stroke, and then expel the excess on the return stroke. ATF is a thin lubricant, and possesses a rather high concentration of detergents that’ll cut the waxy crud inside of the vacuum wiper motor. And, unlike brake fluid, it won’t damage any painted surfaces in the event of inadvertent splashing of fluid during this process. If you decide to send the unit to “The Wiper Man” (his last name is Fikken) in up-state New York, his fee is $100 plus shipping both ways. He doesn’t sell parts, he only rebuilds units sent to him—if they’re re-buildable. He also states that post-war units are the best candidates for his service, and pre-war units—not so much. Another company sells parts, but they aren’t leather, they’re the tightly-woven canvas, and from what I’ve been able to garner from “too much research”, both materials were utilized in these motors. Best of luck on this, and I’m interested in how it turns out for you. Warmest regards to you . . . PS — My father was assigned to post-war West Germany, and we lived there for several years. Great memories, great experience, great people, and great pastries!!! Regards . . . . .

As both leadheavy52, and DJ194950, have mentioned (and Knuckleharley has in previous/other similar topics), if the welds are poor—PASS!!! If they’re questionable, and you think your welding skills are up to snuff, or can have them done by a competent welder, then if the other measurement issues are OK—go for it. The diamond-shaped reinforcement plates are an indication that the person who performed this at least knew what was best for such a project. You might give consideration to putting the car on a frame machine to have it measured. Best of luck to you on this.

Mark D, I’ve also heard that Neatsfoot works with leather internal parts. However, I recently discovered (while I was getting ready to delve into my vacuum windshield wiper motor project), that not all Trico vacuum wiper motors utilized leather internally. The alternative material appears to be some type of rather dense canvas-type material with some type of coating thereon. Those internals on ours was so deteriorated that it’s difficult to determine exactly what it was, but if I had to render a guess—leather, very thin leather. I’m using the canvas material on the rebuild. And, if this turns out to be an exercise in futility—I’ll get a 6v motor from Mac’s, and fabricate the connecting bracketry to the car, connect the motor to the central pivot, and the rest is easy. Thx.

Thom, Getting a good quality top is just the first hurdle in this significant project. The next one, and perhaps the most daunting one, is installing it. Convertible tops are very difficult—I’ve known professional upholsters who’ve said that they’re at the bottom of the list as far as jobs are concerned. I guess the primary complaint is the constant stretching to get it taught so it isn’t flapping insanely when the car’s being driven down the road. Obviously, you’ve got much more tenacity than I. Suggestion—enlist the assistance of a couple of friends (bribe them with beer and pizza, that usually works for me . . .), and have a go at it. Another suggestion—exercise an abundance of patience. Good luck to you.

BobT-47P15, I’ve also heard that Neatsfoot works with leather internal parts. However, I recently discovered (while I was getting ready to delve into my vacuum windshield wiper motor project), that not all Trico vacuum wiper motors utilized leather internally. The alternative material appears to be some type of rather dense canvas-type material with some type of coating thereon. Those internals on ours was so deteriorated that it’s difficult to determine exactly what it was, but if I had to render a guess—leather, very thin leather. I’m using the canvas material on the rebuild. And, if this turns out to be an exercise in futility—I’ll get a 6v motor from Mac’s, and fabricate the connecting bracketry to the car, connect the motor to the central pivot, and the rest is easy. Thx.

Thomba48, If you’re going to lubricate the vacuum wiper motor, use ATF, it’ll clean the waxy crud, and will lubricate the insides incredibly well. Don’t use brake fluid—it’ll eat paint. I’m in the process of rebuilding our vacuum wiper motor *I found some great instructions on how to do this), and I’ve fabricated the paddle seals, and the park seal, and have it semi-reassembled. I’m just not too interested in this project anymore, as my interest in the car is ebbing quickly.

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Hmmmm . . . . Based upon what I’m seeing here, I must be living a charmed life, at least as far as 6v flashers are concerned. When I rewired our car with a Ron Francis Wire Works “Get It Runnin’” 6v harness, I purchased the flasher for the aftermarket turn signal-unit (not a Ron Francis component), at my local auto parts store, who’s a CarQuest affiliated store. Short story—it worked right out of the box, and is still working. All I did was follow the instructions for the turn-signal unit, and Chris Laythem’s (Ron Francis tech advisor) advise.

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The temp gauge on our car was broken, so I took a SW gauge, took the face plate off of it, and replaced it with the one from the original gauge. I bent the needle on the shaft of the SW gauge to set at zero when cold, and compared it to another reliable gauge in a pot of water on the stove. They were within 10o of one another, and since it isn’t the Space Shuttle, I consider that close enough “for gov’t work” . . . Thx.

Seth, I got my first car when I was 15, too—a 6 yo Plymouth Sport Fury. Looking back on it, it was a beautiful car. But, at the time, it wasn’t a 55-56-57 Chevy, so I wasn’t too enchanted with it. Now, 53 years later . . . . my how time does change the color of one’s opinions and perspectives. Take your time, enjoy the project, set a plan, and follow it to your goal. And, when you’re done, you’ll have something that’s truly a “one-off creation”, it’ll be all yours, and it just doesn’t get any better than that!!! Warmest regards . . .

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I’ve used Testors, and OneShot (pin-striping paint), with equally good results. Prior to painting, tho’, I wipe the area with lacquer thinner (I just can’t get my head around sanding shiny chrome, but that’s just me . . .). Thx.

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Andy, When I contacted Steele a couple of years ago, the guy on the telephone said they don’t print their original large catalogue (the one that covered everything they offered . . .) anymore due to the high cost. Now, they only provide an abridged version for the car specified. I had one, but I tossed it as it was in pretty ratty shape—I tho’t I’d be able to get another one—WRONG!!! Now I’ve got their “catalogue-ette” for the P15. So, if you’ve got one of the original large all-encompassing catalogues, you’d better hang onto it, as it’s like most of us, and the cars—an antique. Warmest regards to you . . .