DrDoctor

Disclaimer: The information contained herein in intended solely for the personal, non-commercial use of the reader who accepts full responsibility for its use. The information and/or data contained herein is provided on an “as is” basis, with no guarantees expressed or implied regarding the completeness, accuracy, usefulness, or timeliness. Every precaution has been taken to ensure that the content herein is as accurate, and complete, as possible. In the event that any of the information and/or data presented herein conflicts with any cited references, the information from the cited references, as interpreted herein, shall take precedence. Further, the author accepts NO responsibility for any injury or death that may be resultant due to the practice of repairing, or attempting to repair, by any procedure, of any instrument containing diethyl ether. Diethyl ether’s a lower ether. It’s an organic compound that’s a colorless, tasteless, highly volatile flammable liquid (when under 93.9oF), or gas (when over 93.9oF), with a slight sweet smell. Ether molecules can’t form hydrogen bonds with one another, resulting in relatively low boiling points. It was formerly used as an anesthetic, until non-flammable drugs, such as halothane, were developed. It’s also very harmful to human skin, burning it in a very short time period. Its current usage’s primarily industrial as a solvent, and automotive as a starting aid for engines. Diethyl ether’s a relatively stable chemical compound which doesn’t react with active metals, dilute acids, oxidizing agents, or reducing agents. Its vapor’s heavier than air, can collect at low points on or near the floor, and can travel significant distances reaching sources of combustion which don’t have to be an open flame. Potential sources of ignition of diethyl ether vapor can be a heater, oven or stove, etc. In its gaseous state, it can also be ignited by simple static electricity, such as generated when walking across carpets made of certain fibers, or by simply pouring liquid diethyl ether from one container to another. It’s extremely sensitive to light and air, and will decompose quickly in such an environment, forming explosive peroxides when exposed to light and air. These peroxides don’t need an open flame to combust, significant heat could cause it to explode violently. The spontaneous combustion temperature of liquid diethyl ether’s 320oF. Diethyl ether, in addition to its anesthetic properties, also has an intoxicating effect, which has made it a popular recreational inhalant drug, in the same class as toluene, acetone, and it’s a key ingredient used to make cocaine, and meth-amphetamine. A significant disadvantage of diethyl ether’s its extreme volatility, especially in the presence of oxygen. About the only advantage of diethyl ether as opposed to the other recreational inhalants mentioned herein is the well defined margin that exists between its therapeutic dosage, and its toxic dosage. This means that a person inhaling diethyl ether would lose consciousness before the levels of dissolved diethyl ether in the blood reached dangerous levels could be realized. Along with burning of the skin, it also causes significant irritation to the respiratory mucosa, and it’s therefore rather uncomfortable to breath. In an overdosed condition, any or all of the following conditions can be observed: excessive salivation, coughing, vomiting, spasms. If diethyl ether’s introduced in a 3-5% concentration in the air, breathing 15-20 ml of diethyl ether will slowly induce an anesthetic effect within 15-20 minutes of inhalation, dependent upon body mass and overall physical condition. Prior to blacking out, diethyl ether causes a protracted stage of excitation. Diethyl ether should only be handled by individuals trained in haz-mat procedures, and trained specifically in diethyl ether. Failure to observe the proper procedures when handling diethyl ether can result in catastrophic traumatic injuries. That’s why I take exception to the recommendation of the practice of, or the repairing of, a mechanical temperature gauge containing diethyl ether. Using a soldering iron v an open flame to solder the gauge’s line’s NO guarantee that a dramatic explosion won’t occur. However, if someone’s bound and determined to undergo this, in my professional opinion, reckless exercise, at least put the bulb with the liquid diethyl ether therein on the floor, to keep any gaseous vapors in it from rising up to the work bench, and give yourself some increased odds of surviving this exercise, in the event that something goes awry.

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Bye.

Using the throttle control will keep the car running at speed, except it’ll slow down going up a steep grade, and speed up going down a steep grade. Also, in an emergency situation, should you slam on the brakes, the engine’s speed is set by the throttle control, and it’ll work against efforts to slow down unless manually released—not necessarily a good situation.

Andy, I did basically the same thing on our ’46 Plymouth Special DeLuxe Club Coupe. and like yours, the clock keeps excellent time—once in the morning, and once again at night. Warmest regards to you!!!

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Eneto-55, Yes, I believe you’re correct. It sounds logical to me, anyway, as the hi-beam takes more amperage than does the low-beam. Regards . . .

Eneto-55, Drive is the low-beam, and Pass is the hi-beam (or so I’m told . . .). As for the grommet, Wichita Trimming handles all kinds of rubber parts and pieces. Give them a call—they’re in Wichita, Kansas. Their address is 343 South Ida Street, and their phone number is 316.264.2284. They’ve always come thru for me. Warmest regards to you . . .

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Thomba, Nope, I’m not about to laugh at someone else’s trials, even tho’ I may have “been there-don that”. Using the parts from Mac’s originally intended for a Ford will work just fine, as long as the grommets fit within the hex-holes in the wiper shafts. Use a washer slightly larger than the hex-hole, and retain it with a clip. You’re good to go. I did forget to mention that when I fabricated my hex-nut “fix” to this same problem, I had to file them both down, as there were too thick in their original form, and I couldn’t get the tiny cotter pin thru the hole, as the hex-nuts were almost as thick as the mounting shaft was long. This all occurred when I had a modicum of interest in the car. Live and learn—another problem (called a challenge in med school . . .), overcome. Warmest regards to you . . . .

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Thomba, I had a similar problem. I took a couple of hex-nuts of appropriate size, and drilled out the threaded hole to the needed size. As for the e-clips, I bought new ones, but the groove in the mechanism just wasn’t deep enough to securely retain them, so I put the arms into a drill-press-vise, and drilled a small hole cross-wise in the shafts, and used a spring clip with one end thru the hole. Altho’ not original—problem solved.

I did basically the same thing as described by BobT-47P15, but I didn’t cut the gasket. Instead, I just carefully worked the gasket over, around, and then under the lid of the cowl vent, and finally into its channel. The two back corners were abit of a challenge, but by maneuvering the cowl vent’s position, it went in without damage to either the car, the cowl vent, or the gasket. The key ingredient in doing this the way I did was patience, and doctors are known for that trait. Keep in mind that I did this when I was still interested in working on the car. Best of luck . . .

I’d try this—cover the engine (and anything else you wanted to protect) with plastic to keep the sand out of it. Then, use a power-washer to clean the sand crud from the firewall/inner fender liners. Once you’ve got that accomplished, use the rattle-can paint you want. You should be able to get a color close enough for the task from any lumber yard, or hardware store. Regards . . .

I’ve used Rock Auto—price was very good, and I received what I ordered very quickly.

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Knuckleharley, .

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As I’ve mentioned many times (enough so that many may be tired of hearing my experience with this subject), in our ’46 Plymouth I used a Ron Francis Wire Works harness called “Get It Runnin’”, which is designed for a 6v system. One of the best things about it is that it replaces the single glass-tube fuse with a fuse panel with 8 contemporary blade-type fuses. The other great aspect of my experience is with the technical support, which is “top shelf”!!! I didn't want to go along the original route to the rear of the car, as I didn't want to use the additional wire, I didn't want to remove the headliner (in case of any potential maintenance), so I went under the left door sill in a trough I cut into the padding underneath the carpeting. It’s been installed for 5 years, and I’ve never had ANY problems with anything related to wiring. Warmest regards . . .

Don, That IS a really nice car. Now the question—isn’t this the type of car that Richie’s dad (the late Tom Bosley) drove in the TV series Happy Days???