Los_Control

I wont buy the self serving attitude. Very possible you will be stuck with the vehicles when your parents pass. ...... Makes sense to maintain them. But the joy you gave both your parents to take them out for a ride, something they could not do by themselves without your help. You even got ice cream ...... I wonder how many memories your mother/father had in them vehicles .... even if they cant drive anymore, just riding along. Stick them in the back seat and take them for a tour of the countryside ..... they might be happy. Sucks getting old but we all get there .... making it fun helps.

I'm only suggesting that 1950 they were not fabricated ..... but yours were ...... OHHH if these old trucks could talk ...

You know I'm now going to have to inspect my 1950 motor mounts ..... 9:00 pm at night

I'm sure there is a interesting story behind that somewhere. All the old beaters I have seen it was the drivers side motor mount that broke & or was chained down to keep it from breaking. Just saying that passenger side never broke from abuse of your 95hp engine. There is a story there somewhere

Thanks @Merle Coggins That really helps me in my decision how to proceed. I bought the truck in 2018 & removed the floors then. Now putting it back together the only original piece is the upper toe board. The pedals keep interfering with installing the floor ..... In my mind that seems wrong ...... keep thinking I installed the pedals wrong or .... something. I can very easily just push down the toe boards/pedals & install the fasteners ..... I'm thinking that is not the correct way ..... I had to ask. I know I need to remove the MC push rod to install the toe boards, then cut it to length to fit. I have the new dust covers from DCM ..... they scare me thinking about stretching them over the large pedals ..... I have a plan! I feel silly now asking this question, I had no idea the floor would be the stop.

I'm thinking I did something wrong when I assembled my pedal assembly. The adjuster is clocked so seems one way installed is correct, other way is wrong. <----- I'm thinking I installed it wrong but not sure. Poor photo, I'm trying to show the toe board in place lying on the pedals & 2" away from the cowl ..... I can push it down & install the bolts, that just seems wrong to me. Dump the clutch & will bang the floor ..... When I installed the Toyota MC, I cut the rod to fit this setup .... pushing it down 2" to clear the floor .... riding with the brakes on. So I'm just guessing the problem is when I installed the adjustment collar then readjusted it. Can anyone tell me what is the normal clearance between the toe board & pedals? ...... Any suggestions what else to look at? Trying to get the new floor pan set to weld in .... same problem it is hitting the pedals & not lay down where it needs to be. So I thought to put the toe board in place to see exactly where the floor pan should sit ..... seems obvious something is wrong with how I assembled the pedals.

Problem with doing the Ford flat 6 to the mopar trans, .... I wonder if it has ever been done before? ..... I doubt you will find any help on the steps needed. You will want the Ford bell housing, pressure plate that bolts to the Ford flywheel ..... the clutch may be a different diameter & spline count. You will have to figure it out. You probably will not be able to bolt the mopar transmission to the ford bell housing ...... you might be able to re-drill the bell housing to fit. There will be a circle locating the transmission to center it on the bell housing .... you may need to machine this to fit the mopar to Ford. The front shaft needs to be a certain length to be inserted into the pilot shaft bushing on the crank .... If it is too short your screwed. If too long you can cut it ...... The bushing has a inside & outside measurement you will need to figure out what you need. The throw out bearing will also be a challenge ....... Just saying, if you have to ask you probably do not want to take on the challenge of mating a mopar trans to a ford. The Fords used some strange bell housings in their day, 48-52 they were more normal .... earlier models the oil pan was 1/2 the bell housing. What year is the motor you are looking at?

Just my opinion, I have watched & read instructions for modifying & adapting different transmissions to engines. It takes some work & thinking. Adapting a T-10 5spd to a engine for example. Has been done a million times ..... it is a considerable amount of effort. I would be looking for a engine/transmission combo to do the swap ..... save a lot of headaches. The swap will provide plenty of headaches without adding to them. Or just keep searching for the correct engine for your car, they are out there.

Reminds me of a time when I was young. I swore the rear end went out on my Toyota crap box. I bought a replacement from local wrecking yard .... replaced it & found it to be a bad U-joint. Recently I had a front wheel bearing go bad on my chebby truck ..... I swore it was the rear end again .... I pulled the rear end apart & inspected everything. Then found the wheel bearing while looking deeper. Just suggesting there is nothing wrong with pulling the transmission & inspecting it .... you did learn something from it.

Sounds awesome ..... you might want to double check the speed rating on your ratchet strap ..... some are no good over 45mph ???

I must be a real hack .... I love my tools, but $150 for wire crimps I would seldom use is a tough pill to swallow ..... For my tight arse As a remodel carpenter I always carried a pair of crimps in my tool belt. I felt that they were a good quality working man's tool .... plus the electricians also used Klein tools. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=klein+wire+crimper&i=tools&crid=35HSRZIK7BEJG&sprefix=klein+wire+%2Ctools%2C118&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_3_11 If you scroll down the page you will see the wirefy crimps for $33 ..... but does not include all the extra accessories. I assume you can probably buy them separate, just purchase the ones you will use? About specific crimps for barrel connections, I think is a valid question. .... I think it depends on the ends you purchase. Looking at my original barrel ends, they are different. It would take a weird crimp tool to duplicate it. Looking at the few replacement barrel connectors I have on hand, they have the standard style crimp end as any other end available ..... My 15 year old pair of Kliens will crimp them fine .....

1950 Dodge truck 218 ..... should be close to yours. I have 14.5" to the base I have ~2 1/8" to the add line, 2 7/8" to the full line. Now I'm going to look stupid, I do not know how much oil we are suppose to have without looking it up .... I just use my stick. I do not have a external oil filter so I will use a different amount then those that do ..... then are all external oil filters the same capacity? Have any dents in your pan that could limit capacity? The measurements above should get you in the ball park.

Just something to think about, I will also guess elements & the bottom one gets the brunt of the abuse. Sometimes the tanks can fill with crud & literally bury the lower element, depending how hard your water is. You will want to use some wire to see how much crud you can get out of the bottom. I have seen them before where you had to remove the crud just so the new element would go in. They have a sacrificial anode rod that is suppose to help, probably all gone by now Depending how old it is, it may be ready to start leaking from being rusted out ???? You need a crystal ball to know when. Does draining it every year and sitting for 6 months prolong it's life span .... or shorten it? ..... I really have no idea. I know our old cars do not like it. So thinking out loud ..... I wonder what a new replacement tank cost, vrs repairing the old one then it start leaking next year? The first house I bought had what I thought to be the original hot water heater, it was made by the Edison electric company. I was proud to own it, as it worked just fine til it did not. The only problem was it had like a voltage regulator with points to control it. The points started sticking on it & would not turn off the elements. Then it would overheat & blow off water through the safety pressure relief valve. It would flood the basement, one side was a workshop other side a bedroom. So there was water damage & safety issue if the old safety valve failed to work ........ after 3 time trying to fix it, I replaced it.

I like the fact the machine shop is fixing it .... Sure they wouldn't touch it unless they were confident. Gives you more time to play with other things

I'm not really sure what you want ..... the valves are adjusted with a feeler gauge & not thread pitch. I'm calling @keithb7 out because they made a excellent video on adjusting valves ..... I can not find the video now. I do remember watching it ...... I just cant find it on Keith channel to share it. The book gives you Hot & cold valve lash, & you set it with a feeler gauge, not by thread pitch. The idea of setting it by thread pitch is so far out in left field nobody knows how to reply. Ask how to set valves you will get answers ..... ask how to set them with thread pitch, people will take a wide berth stepping around you.

Thats a interesting question ..... Back in the 20's-30's a lot of Fords the frame was the same .... you could turn a roadster into a coupe into a pickup .... Not sure Dodge was ever like that. Even by 38 you could not do the same with Ford. ..... I have no idea how much fabrication was needed at that time. Imho, it will not be a bolt together swap .... you will need fabrication, No idea how much. Same time, the motor, transmission, brakes,rear end will all swap with your frame ..... the price is cheap enough you should grab it if you have room to store it. While it may not be a direct swap, there will be many hard to find parts available to you ..... even if your frame needs repair you have a donor of the metal. I saw a utility trailer made from a 49 Dodge truck, I bought it for $200 just for spare parts ..... Not used any yet but glad I have it available.

Wonderful story ...... think my allergies were acting up, had to wipe a tear away. ..... My mother went blind from diabetes ..... you did right by letting her feel her way around.

Wow that is awesome, I guess I misunderstood, I thought it was going to the body man to get reassembled. I knew some of the bed or fenders still needed some work or paint ...... My bad. I have a acquaintance .... He owns the house next door & his daughter lives there. He lives around the corner. He is a mechanic for the best shop in our little town, he turns out show quality paint work at home. He always has a customer car being worked on & sometimes one in line to be next. His current project is some 50's Oldsmobile been there for 3 months waiting to be next, finally has all the glass out & in sealer .... might be 4 months before it drives away finished .... It will be beautiful ..... just takes time.

That might be the best thing to do ..... But I have a idea! There was a discussion here awhile back about thoughts on adding ATF to the transmission for a cleaner before changing the oil in it. While not everyone agreed it was a great idea, nobody really thought it would cause harm. I know the miracles of atf in engine oil to clean a motor out, I've done it with great success. So now my plan is to run the light motor oil in place of the atf. The atf would be more effective, I think the 5-30 will probably do a decent job also. I will change the oil in the rear end first adding 5-30 to it, then with the truck on jack stands just run it in 2nd gear at 800--1k RPM. Long enough for the gear oils to get good and warm then drain them while they are hot. I will be curious to see how dirty the oil is when drained. If really dirty, I will be happy I flushed it. If just so so dirty, I will be happy they were not that dirty to begin with. Since there will be no heavy load on the gears I see no harm, it will be a good exercise for the truck to run in gear above idle for awhile ..... I can see if the speedometer works or needs more attention after I cleaned it. I made a mistake, going to turn lemons into lemonade.

And just like that .... 2 years later .... ??? I have everything completed that I wanted to do before putting the floor in. New bushing on the clutch pedal. New speedo cable. New e-brake cable & working e-brake. Working brakes. Drive line removed, u-joints serviced, yoke properly working ..... ready to go to work. I changed the oil in the transmission. Today was a mile stone, I was very pleased .... still need to button up a few loose ends, I can now weld in the floor. I'm all happy, got the bbq going & cleaning the garage putting everything away. When I put the oil jug away I realized I put 1+ quarts of 5-30 motor oil in it ☹️ Think we call this life happens. ..... I bought a quart of 80-90 a long time ago but could not find more. So I bought a gallon jug of 85-140 ..... same brand I'm fine with mixing them. So I added the quart. Then I grabbed the gallon jug off the shelf to finish filling it ..... I grabbed the wrong jug. Never realized it til I was putting the jug away. Oh well, not a big deal. I was considering adding a quart of atf, run it a bit on the jack stands to clean the transmission, then change it again ....... Seems like I'm doing the same thing, only with motor oil instead of atf.

Great looking truck, congratulations on it. The actual & I think correct size of the tires, shows 8.25-20 in your photo. IIRC, others have talked about switching to 22.5 wheels. ...... Is there a 9R22.5 tire? ..... Still taller then a 8.25 I think. Just saying, the taller tires did not agree with the gear ratio of the truck. So if you had a load & a hill you had to downshift to a lower gear then normal. That is a very nice looking original truck to have the interior look as good as it does. I love all old trucks, GM trucks are not bad either. ..... I think many of them had the 216 with a splash oiling system? Not sure when they switched to a pressurized oil pump. Just saying the old flathead in the Dodge was built from the 1930's all the way into the 1970's because it was so reliable for many applications. I'm talking about airport tugs, industrial farm equipment, vehicles sold outside of USA for emission reasons. ..... They were just great engines & worked as is. You will not regret taking care of this one. I'm hoping to hear more as you get to know your new truck.

The package I have from the auto parts store are called "U-type speed nuts" They actually work. They are size M6-1.0, M8-1.25 ..... I really do not understand the size label. ..... The actual bolts measure 5/16", probably considered 1/4" course thread. I just need to spend some time to figure out what size to order. To be honest, I was afraid to put "speed nuts" into a google search to see what comes up .... U-nuts work.

Well ladies & gentlemen, I do not recommend the 1969 Mustang E-brake cable. I did grind down the size of the ball to fit also needed to slice just a sliver off the end of the original e-brake handle in order to install the clip that holds it all together. Not proud of cut & modify the original e-brake handle .... "I feel" a original cable will still work if needed. Connecting to the e-brake itself, the cable adjuster is too long & needs shortened ..... no bad feelings about modifying the cable. Essentially I have a working e-brake for $10 Here is the problem with this particular cable .... simply too short. Here it is lying right on the exhaust manifold. This will be a easy fix with some baling wire, I can make a bracket to bolt to the firewall & hold it away ..... Not sure I will ever be happy with this cable. Just saying, this turns into a future Fred problem .... Today Fred has a working e-brake & bigger fish to fry. Maybe with the right hold down bracket, I might learn to love it? This is why I do not recommend it. If you need to hire someone to make the bracket, would be cheaper to just buy the correct $100 cable. I want to say the Ford cable has really close cable connections to our Dodges. This cable is for a 1969 Mustang, I want to do some research someday to see if maybe a 69 Ford Galaxie has the same connections but a longer cable for a longer body style?

Thanks, that certainly is correct search term & thanks for the link. Going to try and finish the E-brake then will sit down & shop.

Today am working on the E-brake ..... Not sure how it will work out. Feeling pretty confident though. I ordered a front brake cable for a 69-70 mustang from Holley memorial day sale for less then $10. Amazon sells the same cable for $17, others $22 ..... Just cheaper then the $100 I find for cables that fit our trucks. The ball on the end is slightly to large, will need to sand it down with the dremel to fit the E-brake handle. It is about 6" shorter then the original. IMHO, the original was too long anyways, long sweeping loop allowed it to rub on the exhaust .... A shorter cable might be a good thing? See how it works out. I keep forgetting that I need to order some of the clips I have circled. for mounting the inner fenders, toe boards, trans cover etc.... I do not know the correct name for them to do a search. I can get some at the parts store .... package of 4 for $5-$7 .... I need at least 25-30 of them + I'm missing some of the bolts. Just hoping someone can give me the proper name to search with.