Los_Control

That only works on pilot shaft bushings 🤣 Hoping you have the right parts, this feature of a bolt pattern that only goes on one way ... in your case could be so the timing marks are in exact position. I have seen the same "feature" when tightening a torque converter to a flex plate ... the bolt pattern only allows one way ... probably for balancing in that case .... I dunno Just sucks because you can only see 1 bolt at a time and have to start it, then rotate engine to next bolt ... see it does not match and spin the engine back and remove the bolt and then start over ... you eventually get it right. Just one of those things a mechanic have to work through. .... Nice the mechanic left a puller for you. I'm thinking you will need a puller for the job, but should be pretty easy from there. Seems like you can see the bolt pattern and just be sure they line up this time. A professional Dodge flathead 6 mechanic should have caught this .... not many of those running around as mobile mechanics .... Live and learn.

😍

Well life goes on .... I was so pissed at the car I did not drive it .... until yesterday. Fact is, with the different sensor installed .... really was not driveable. So I put the old crank sensor back in today. .... kinda sorta better but in the end I do not want to drive it. My experiment really did not go the way I expected it too ..... I do not think the different crank sensors were the issue .... tugging and moving the wires to the crank sensor made the difference.I now have 3 different codes that I did not have before 14 ... MAP voltage too high or too low 24 ... TPS voltage too high or too low 43 ... Ignition control circuit not responding So I'm now going to go after this wire harness .... I think moving the wires may have told me what I need to know. I did go after the harness on the top end of the motor that controls the PCM and all the main parts. The wire harness for crank sensor comes from underneath and with the transmission harness .... I never searched there before for this issue. I just feel like I may have a clue where the problem is ..... 😕

@48Dodger .... If @ggdad1951 wears a speedo .... please spare us the pics

I was reading your post yesterday .... I really have no clue myself. A month ago or so I worked on my vacuum motor and pulled it out ... Like a dummy I just never checked it before pulling it out ... truck sat for 20-30 years in a field, and did not have any hope they would work. .... they seem to work just fine and stuck the motor back in. Then I was wondering what a proper way to lubricate the motor as general maintenance. So basically I just thought about it and did nothing. Maybe I will try a little MM oil myself.

Thanks @sniper .... I'm kinda giving up on crank sensor issues ... I had to try though. You also pointed me to a coolant sensor I was unaware of. ... seems this engine has 2, one for the gauge and one for the pcm. I changed the coolant sensors with no change. Now someone is suggesting a possible oil pressure switch going out and cutting the engine off??? Is that even possible on a 1993? ... I Dunno I think this will be the next item I try

That one actually started this whole process ... It failed and needed replaced .... I installed it wrong and that caused the original engine to blow up. Then the new/used engine failed at 50 miles ... 3 engines later and a few new crank sensors 🙄 Original factory sensor is long gone and talking to the dealer, they can not get a 1993 sensor. The sensor is bolted to the bell housing of transmission ... you do not get a OEM sensor with a used engine. To give it a fair test, I feel like I need to let it sit over night and then take it for a drive .... same time the sensor I installed was room temp when installed. ... So my theory is BS. At this point, my only thought is to just keep driving it and it just keeps getting worse. Eventually it simply will not start and run, and maybe then I can chase down the issue and find where it fails. I'm moving forward with the 49 and it may soon be my only driver Wiring is kinda finished, I'm going down on May 1rst to license it. Thats 5 days from now and I need to put the seats and interior back together and bleed the brakes ... Maybe next week it will be a driver. My daily driver chebby I think it has a bad ball joint and suddenly want to eat the driver front tire. I'm going to tear the front end apart and replace all worn parts ... then tires ... it will be down a few days ... I'm going to have to rely on the Dodge .... sure would be nice to have the caravan repaired ... just not in the cards.

OK another swing and a miss ... not surprised though. While I was hoping to get 30 miles before it acted up, I only made it the typical 10 miles on the Highway .... But the car was fully warmed up from the wife driving it before I worked on it. I need to wait until the morning then start and go and see what happens. ... Just not a equal test starting with a warm engine 😕

I'm thinking it is possible a bad batch of sensors were made ... they all are defective the same way. When new they run about 30-40 miles then get hot or act up .... thats what the sensor in above photo did when I pulled it out and replaced it. .... It had about 200-300 miles on it. And the car drove 30 miles before acting up. Now the exact same new NTK sensor installed, has about 2500 miles on it, can only drive 10 miles on the highway before it acts up ... when first installed it would go 30 miles, just gradually getting worse. I hope the sensor is bad ... all the symptoms points to a crank sensor ... just confusing because already tried 2 new crank sensors ... of the same brand and likely from the same batch. I'm thinking, if I install the 1rst used sensor again ... if I can now drive 20-30 miles instead of only 10 miles. Would mean the sensor directly affects the problem. ... I need to buy a different brand of sensor. If I can still only drive 10 miles and it acts up ... I know it is not the sensor and this one is new also ... just leave it. Is a really easy job on this van, 1 bolt and plug, can lean over the fender and easily reach it .... worth a shot. Wife is out driving the neighbor to town grocery shopping ... will change it when she gets home and see if there is a change. I'm really going nuts on this thing. .... wife is home, I'm going to go change it and try it.

$300 for a 230 is a good deal. No question I would open it up and check it out before installing it .... may as well since it is out already ... gasket set is not that much. I would not consider a good used spare engine in the garage junk. Still curious how your engine is coming along.

I really have no idea whats going on here. Only way I could approach it is to raise all 4 wheels off the ground ... figure out which wheels are offending. I seriously doubt it is a wheel bearing .... possibly .... I dunno .... Raise it in the air and turn each wheel separately .... see where it fails. Maybe a brake issue .... just need to find out where the problem is starting from ...

Other day it was in the 60's here .... too cold to even open the doors and work ...

I feel like a dog chasing it's tail. .... All the symptoms and issues point to a bad Crank sensor. I installed a new sensor when I installed the used engine and have had this problem every since. First thing I suspected was a bad "new" crank sensor .... So I ordered a new one again from rockauto and changed it. I honestly thought I was ordering a different brand and would get a different sensor. Real story is, I got exactly what I was replacing ... A NTK made in the USA sensor. So lets say they make 1K of these in a batch, and all I did is buy another out of the same batch? I get it, I'm grasping at straws here .... I'm thinking now that the installed sensor has over 2K miles on it and progressively getting worse ... The sensor in the photo I was getting 30-40 miles out of it before it acted up. Now with replacement sensor, it started out the same 30-40 miles .... but gradually gotten worse ... I only get about 10 miles now. So I'm going to install this old sensor and see if I can drive further before it acts up again .... Both sensors may be bad ... If I can drive further with this old sensor installed .... it would tell me the aftermarket sensors are junk. I called a dealer yesterday, no chance to get a OEM for a 1993 .... but what brand to buy next? Thinking to just go to NAPA and just see what they offer.

I personally would suggest a 1951 Ford 239 V8 ... will gain 5 hp and is much shorter then the jeep 6 cylinder. Call me at BR-6549 I can hook ya up! The Jeep 4.0 is a awesome motor and very dependable .... if you can make it work, would be a nice upgrade. There is a huge following of those motors and all sorts of aftermarket parts available. I can say I saw a Dodge slant 6 installed in a photo on facebook .... it can be done. Thousands of others have installed 318/360 V8 with enough room for everything to be happy. Free is not always cheap comes to mind here .... just because you have the engine ... it might cost more to install then just purchase a V8.

IIRC, I had something like that on one fender also. Bolted in from the side .... I removed mine. Had a tear in a fender also and they bolted a piece of metal to hold it.

When I bought my current house, after my inspection ..... It was a original unmolested home that does need some updates/upgrades .... just the fact nobody really messed with it in the past, made it worth buying in my opinion. Like buying a old car, yes it is old ... but because it is basically original and just maintained .... it is worth fixing. I imagine your house built in 1965 is not that bad, just needs some upgrading .... back then they built homes good. In the 1970's they started using aluminum wiring instead of copper .... you dodged that bullet. Just enjoy the process ... curious on future situations you come across.

Just a photo for laughs. This house was over 100 years old .... I believe this was a open porch at some time, then someone closed it in .... then later it actually turned into a bearing wall. When opening up a older house, you just have no idea what other people have done in the past. .... IIRC, there was a old live wire buried in this wall that I immediately removed before even thinking about taking the photo. Just one of those jobs that was suppose to be fairly simple .... looked nice on the exterior under the stucco siding .... Looking at the photo it is just WOW! .... This is exactly the reason I always did remodel by the hour and not on a direct bid. The projected cost of the job just went up another $10K when we could see what we had to do to repair past mistakes. Remodel is fun, you just never know what you will run into.

@Plymouthy Adamssaid the dirty word It is so true though ... codes change in areas so often. In Albuquerque it was code to use 14GA wire for lighting circuits and 12GA for electrical outlets. Then one day they changed that and required 12GA on all circuits. .... Electricians did not know there was a change, until the inspectors told them. Yeah we changed that last week. I just run 12GA on everything ... possibly overbuilt, I'm ok with that. Is amazing how many circuits are needed in a kitchen. Garbage disposal, refrigerator, oven, built in microwave, lights, outlets ... 7 items need 7 different circuits ... iirc, disposal and microwave need to be GFCI protected ... possibly fridge also. .... Your codes may be different. ... for some reason, I believe they want exhaust fan on a separate circuit also ... just so you can safely isolate these things when they need service and can safely work on them. Every County is going to be different. One thing I was told by a clerk at city hall when we moved in and I asked some questions ... this is a small town. The lady said, If you have plans for any project ... just give us a call. The inspector can stop by when they get a chance and discuss it with you and offer advice ... for free. She claimed, we would rather work with you safely ... then have you do something unsafe .... the inspector can then advise if you want to get a permit or not for the project.

I should try my E-brake and see if it even works 🙄 Everything was frozen on it and the old cable was burned through from laying on the exhaust ... probably been like that for years when it was last on the road driving. 30 years ago. Anyway the shoe has plenty of meat left on it .... been working on the linkage with heat, oil and a hammer. Last time I pulled on the handle, it moved a good 6"-8" appeared to be working ... will have to test it. Now that the engine runs good and seems to have plenty of smooth power .... (replacing original distributor with electronic ignition) .... I'm wondering about the gearing on this thing. A old farm truck, I would expect to let the clutch out slow and just crawl along. ... not this one. When I let the clutch out, it wants gas pedal at the same time .... without brakes am hesitant because the driveway is only 2 car lengths before you need to stop. It just shudders and dies. Now if you give it gas it launches smoothly .... but there is only a few feet and need to stop and no brakes Maybe I just need to drive it and get use to it .... I'm thinking it may have a higher rear end installed then a 4.1. I wonder if the factory ever offered that option? ... I dunno For some reason, just not getting motivated. I did get the heater switch wired up yesterday and ordered some things from DCM ... a new heater switch, original does not work. Wondering if I should connect a 12>6 volt reducer on the motor .... fan runs really fast I have a ... DC Converter Regulator, 12V Step Down to 6V 6A 36W Voltage Reducer. I'm not sure what amps the old heater motors draw. ... I'm thinking maybe more then 6 amps? I think I will give it a try anyways since I have it. .... probably just as cheap to buy a 12V motor as it is a bigger converter. Today I should make defroster ducts for the windshield ... with the seats out I have all the room needed to work under the dash .... ducts should have gone in before wiring 🙄 Suppose to be 92 degrees today ... hard to get motivated on working on a truck heater. May is coming soon and wanting to get registration done then .... I need to get these things finished up.

It is my opinion, ya kinda stuck with the insulation. Typical home construction, there will be 2"x4" rafters making the roof structure .... will be limited to R13 bat insulation. Blown in insulation, you can achieve a higher R value then R13 ... I think it is better and properly installed it fits into tight spaces and seals better. The roof if it is properly vented, will have dust in the attic .... no way to get away from it. I imagine there is some way to remove/vacuum all the dust and insulation out of the attic ... and clean it .... do your work and then blow in new ....mighty costly for little gain. Attics and crawl spaces are never fun. The electrical, I would go through and inspect it .... anything shady like pulling 110 off of a 220 circuit I would eliminate. I would typically install a new breaker and run 110 all the way from the panel to the item that needs it. I just feel better about not messing with the original wiring .... it worked for 60 years now ... just leave it alone. Unless you want to track down everything and then add up the load and figure out if it is safe to add another item ... too much math in that for me .... just start clean. Then you know what kind of power that new circuit is feeding and if you can tap into it later if it is needed. Same with existing lighting ... either way is acceptable and it works .... just use switches and accessories that work with what you have. If you want something different, then run a new wire from a new breaker in the panel to your project ... leave the old wiring as is. I'm all for eliminating circuits and switches from existing wiring .... lessen the load on whats there, move it to a fresh circuit. I will be honest, I do not care for power to the light and use power to the switch method myself. Many fixtures you will cut power to so you can safely work on it .... your test light will still pickup some power bleeding through the lines .... not enough to shock you, but enough to power the test light ... sometimes it is easier to kill power to the whole house then find the offending circuit. It could be from the light above the bathroom sink, a outlet in bedroom 3 .... just a characteristic of old house wiring. Still it was acceptable and it works. Just leave it alone. In theory it may be fine to start modifying the existing wiring and adding to it ... I personally would not touch it, unless removing a load from it, and then moving to a new circuit.

I should also add I have no brakes .... I installed the new brakes and had a leak and had to order proper fittings .... I bled them then it started to leak. I fixed the leak proper, just never did bleed them again. If I had working brakes, I would be driving this thing around the block 6 times without the fenders properly bolted or lights working .... No registration or insurance .... I'm saving the bleeding of the brakes for last 😜

Been slow this time of year .... I have all 4 new tires and hubcaps on. I wired up the turn signals today and have all lights working. Still have a few things to put back together in the cab.... heater switch, cigar lighter. ... I have a CB radio and a am/fm radio to install .... seats need to go back in .... just all stupid little stuff. I never did finish bolting all the fenders down and aligning the doors to fenders .... if that is even possible. I'm getting really really close to finish this thing up and drive it .... then pull the engine apart and do rings and valves. I have ran this engine for long periods of time and it quit smoking ... then let it sit for a year and it starts to smoke again next time started. I feel I need to give it a long drive in the country and see if it stops burning oil .... I feel this time it will not and will need to tear it down. I still have to give it a chance. .... Been a long haul to get this far, soon will be reporting first drive.

I wish all ya all luck .... this Texas is as hard as the cowboys that live here. .... I imagine the water makes us tough. I was too lazy to change my distribution tube and ran a rod through it to clean out all the hard water deposits. .... Lets be fair, I expect to have to pull the engine at some point and will fix it right then. Texas we have hard water and it will plug up any plumbing fixture you have, including the distribution tube.

Whats the dimensions, and will it fit into my truck are the first things that pop into my mind. Who needs a high rise manifold to stick dual carbs out of the hood ..... lets stick a complete flathead engine out of the hood

OK I wish you luck with everything .... I too am a fan of electronic ignition and have it installed myself. I used a slant 6 distributor and converted my original distributor using parts from the 49 Dodge and from the newer slant 6 .... then I used a GM HEI to complete it. Just saying that I have OEM Dodge contacts in the distributor .... OEM GM reading the signal and sending it to where it needs to be. Either part can be bought at a local auto parts store. Your petronix may work as well, just need to get working parts and make it work .... probably cheaper/easier then replacing the distributor.