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aj1936

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  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • My Project Cars
    1936 pickup

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  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    cars

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  1. Ok, thanks. So I hook up the hole marked inlet on the filter to the oil passage port above the oil relief passage (top) and the bottom outlet of the filter to the port at the oil pressure relief value (Bottom). What size line?
  2. The pencil shows where the small hole is in the center hollow tube. A canister filter (AC #P115) slides over the hollow tube. Question is how does oil get into the hollow tube and out to the engine block through that small hole . It is too small. The top hole is marked inlet. Makes more sense that the oil from engine would enter the filter from the bottom hole blow out through the small hole in the center hollow tube into the filter element then out the hole on the top side to the engine. But the hole on the top side is marked inlet which Im assuming means from engine.
  3. It is referred to as the Military Jr by pass filter. The filter element is a canister type. Ill try to get some pics this weekend.
  4. I purchased a old military by pass oil filter for the Dodge straight six . I have read all the info provided in this forum about line hookup and have no problem with any of that. Upon examining the filter I see the inlet is marked on the top side. Inside is a hollow tube with a bolt that screws into it to hold the top down and a hole in the bottom for the outlet. There is a very small hole the size of a lead pencil point in the hollow shaft near the top. I can't see any other holes. I blew some air through it sealing the top and bottom of center tube and the only place it came out was that small hole. How in the hell does oil come in the top go through the filter and out that tiny hole to the engine or am I missing something.
  5. Thanks for the ideas guys. Going to check out speedway steering box.
  6. I so tired of my bad luck. Just got done replacing rear bearings, seals , brakes on rear axle which turned out to be a 47 Plymouth. This is a 1936 Dodge pickup. Backed it out of garage went to turn and the steering wheel twisted off. It seems that previous owner had done some sloppy welding on steering shaft for some reason. There was no threaded shaft on the end it look like they welded a hollow threaded section onto original steering shaft as there was a bolt holding steering wheel on not a nut. It broke off below the steering column which means I have to pull steering box to see what is up. Is there an aftermarket steering column that will adapt to the Dodge's steering box. It steered fine before this and didnt have any issues this past summer. Glad it happened in driveway and not on road. Was thinking of buying one of the universal steering columns and welding or adapting it to the current steering tube on pickup. Any ideas?
  7. I am in the process of gathering the tools I need to replace the axle seals and pinion seal on my 1936 Dodge pickup.Got a hub puller, Need to buy some larger sockets- I need to know socket size for pinion nut. Another member identified a picture of my trucks pumpkin as a 1946 to 1948 Plymouth not original to truck. I have finally been able to get truck up on stands and was able to see the following numbers on the rear end 11415 44-28 below that is the number 262. Anyone know what year this is? Thanks.
  8. I know that now. Wish i would have pulled that hub before i ordered!. Oh well
  9. Pulled rear hubs on 36 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup. I had previously acquired brake shoes. The ones on the truck do not look the same. Im sure the new ones are correct for year parts. The ones on car use plunger rods at the wheel cylinder to shoes. The new shoes have have plunger manufactured on the shoe. There looks like a clearance issue between the shoe backing and wheel cylinder. Do I have different year rear end . Trying to download some pics.
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