Bill Stephens

I purchased 1/4" bronze bushings from Ace hardware (about $2 ea.) from their speciality hardware drawers. Wanted to try the K&S Precision Metal thin wall brass tubing sold for hobbyist they usually carry but were out of the sizes I needed. Drilled the throttle body on my drill press using a drill press vise, alot of eye balling and sweating bullets . Pressed and glued(super glue) the bushings in using a 1/4" rod for alignment. Extended one bushing out the throttle cam side and drilled out the cam to fit. The cam had an oval shaped hole and the old throttle shaft had a deep wear grove resulting in lots of slop. All actions seems to work smoothly without binding and is tight. Will report the final results when back installed on the car. Thanks for all comments.

Thanks for all responses. The brass throttle shaft is 1/4". Surprise, no supplier seems to make a bushing kit for this size or a replacement shaft. The carb base is cast iron which is why the brass shaft is worn and not the base. I am considering soldering bushings on the throttle shaft at the wear points and drilling out the carb based to accept the new diameter. Any thoughts? Also the electric choke almost full closes when starter is activated but releases immediately when starter is deactivated. The bi-metallic spring I believe is meant to hold it close and gradually allow it to open as the engine warms. Does the present action mean the spring has failed or out of adjustment? Can it be adjusted? Thanks.

Throttle shaft is well worn with lots of play. Please suggest replacement source or method of repair. Thanks for all help and comments

Carb is Stromberg BXVD-3. I have rebuilt it several times over the last 15 years. Now engine as been rebuilt and sat for 4 years. Engine runs fairly smooth at higher rpms. Timing is set and advances OK. Unsure what I did last to the rebuild carb (4 years ago). Fuel bowl level is correct (5/8"). The idle circuit seem to not be working. Idle mixture needle adjustment as no effect. Screwed all the way in or several turns out. Also squirted carb cleaner thru idle mixture screw hole to no effect. Accelerator pump working. Maybe left out parts? Gasket installed backwards? All ideas appreciated. Also electric choke solenoid activates only when starter operates and returns to open when starter deactivates. Is that correct? All ideas/comments appreciated. Thanks

Thanks for the responses. This engines was rebuilt about 4 years ago by a machine shop and has been stored since. Just installed it back in the car. Unable to get it to start. Rechecked timing, indexed oil pump, firing order, points, hot spark, etc. Finally checked compression. 70 to 90 lbs. which seems really low. Any suggestions?? Thanks. Again thanks for all comments. Will put oil in all cylinders and try again. I have gone over the ignition and timing set up very carefully several times including priming and believe it should have acted like it would start anyway. I have some anxiety relief from the comments about the low compression. Thoughts of pulling the engine out again were not good.

Thanks for the responses. This engines was rebuilt about 4 years ago by a machine shop and has been stored since. Just installed it back in the car. Unable to get it to start. Just several backfires. Rechecked timing, indexed oil pump, firing order, points setting, verified #1 compression stroke, hot spark, etc. Finally checked compression. 70 to 90 lbs. which seems really low. Maybe stuck rings? Any suggestions?? Thanks.

Thanks for the responses. This engines was rebuilt about 4 years ago by a machine shop and has been stored since. Just installed it back in the car. Unable to get it to start. Rechecked timing, indexed oil pump, firing order, points, hot spark, etc. Finally checked compression. 70 to 90 lbs. which seems really low. Any suggestions?? Thanks.

What is the 6 cylinder numbering? Number 1 starts from the water pump end(front) or flywheel end (back)? Engine just back from rebuild. Will not start. Indexed oil pump at TDC with rotor at 7 clock position. Using 153624 firing order. Used compression on #1 (front?), light and TDC to set initial timing. Just back fires. ??? Thanks.

I figured out the pilot bearing is in the fluid drive unit. Thanks

1950 Dodge Wayfarer fluid drive standard transmission. Is a pilot bushing required in the crankshaft for this configuration?

Thanks Capt Den. Immediately needed info is: tips for cross over oil tube and pick up reinstall tips for oil pan reinstall sheet metal cover(#108 from 1950 Mopar parts book page 141) between oil pan and flyweel pan gasket material info and reinstall tips clutch fork leather boot install info

I live in Austin, Texas

I need help with the engine rebuild. Would much appreciate any insight/advice. I pull the engine with tranny attached and delivered it to a machine shop for a complete rebuild. I was absent for any disassembly. Basically I got back a completely rebuilt short block and boxes of loose nuts, bolts and parts. The factory service manual I have does not include many details I need. I need advise on: oil cross over pipe and oil pickup orientation oil pan gasket and seal install details intake/exhaust manifold re-installation tips heat riser valve setup clutch/pressure plate/release bearing/release fork/fork boot installation books/literature which provides this info etc. Thanks in advance for any assistance Bill Stephens 512 217-9008

I discovered the drive shaft boots were torn. Is there a known source for these and how do you replace them?

7 psi does seem high but no flooding problem. The test gauge is really old and may not be accurate but the pressure was steady. I replace the plugs when the problems started. The old plugs were a light brown colored. I have not driver the car more than a few miles since the repair so the jury is still out on the fix. Thanks all. Bill