rallyace

Well, all I can say is this has made for some interesting reading with my morning cup of coffee.

Check you manual for the proper setup as it is how you adjust the gear lash between the ring and pinion.

If you are using a spring 'clicker' torque wrench, you have to release the spring after use. The spring will take a set and really screw up your calibration.

Summit Racing sells a flywheel turning tool. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900178?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=CjwKCAiAlb_fBRBHEiwAzMeEdm4kzjEBCJlyU2IatyRNILBUqQYpgkGnnEJjjdzmkUsdoPpa54h1ZxoCAUwQAvD_BwE

As much as I respect knuckleharley's experience, advice and opinions he is wrong on this one. It is "ultra cool".

Be very careful with the two balls. They are NOT the same size!!

Bernstein's sells a full kit of studs, nuts and washers. I think it is about $60, about what you would pay at the hardware store but you get the heavy washers in the kit. You definitely want to use some sort of sealer on the studs where they go into the block.

Mark, let us know the next time you plan a trip for the picnic.

I would stay away from Pertronix right now. Too many war stories of the new units failing. Check on some of the British car forums and you will find many folks who have had issues, me included. It started about 4 years ago when Pertronix changed the company that was making their modules. Just my two cents worth.

When I made my post I suspected I would see this as a comment. Here is the technical reply. The torque (and associated power) produced by an electric motor is a direct function of the flux density created by the coils in the motor. The flux density is a function of the construction of the motor. Motor speed and torque produced are inversely proportional. Maximum torque occurs at what is known as Locked Rotor conditions (zero RPM). As the speed increases, the torque decreases. and the resultant power created will decrease. The motor will attempt to spin faster under load on 12 volts but will be limited by the torque it can produce and the loads created by the internal friction of the moving parts in the engine.

I am getting ready to swap out my tired 230 with a slipping clutch for a fresh 218 and new clutch on my 51 P23 Cambridge. Is it easier to pull the transmission or leave it in?

Power is measured in watts. Your starter motor delivers a specific amount of power that can be measured in watts. One watt = 1 volt x 1 amp. The amperage for any specific wattage is directly proportional to the voltage. For example, 600 watts at 6 volts = 100 amps and 600 watts at 12 volts = 50 amps. Wire size determines its current, or amperage, capacity. The wire size for 6 volts needs to have twice the current carrying capacity of wire that is intended for 12 volts. The wire sold at just about every auto parts house is sized for 12 volts. You should use a minimum of a 0 gauge wire (that is zero gauge) from the battery to the solenoid, from the solenoid to the starter and from the block to the battery for a 6 volt system. Yes, I am an electrical engineer.

Those wrenches are also known as flare nut wrenches in the USA. If you cannot find one at your local tool purveyor, try a plumbing supply house or a refrigeration supply house.

I like the hints, the one I most want to get answered is how do you get permission to rebuild a door on the dining room table?

No, I would need to pull the transmission, bell housing, clutch, flywheel, and oil pan, loosen the main caps and change the seal. I was looking for a stop gap method to get me through until I put in the new engine this fall.

OK, I am now a finalist for the 'Friends of OPEC" award as my 51 Cambridge is leaking one quart of oil about every 125 miles. The vast majority is leaking out of the rear seal. I want to hold off putting in my new engine until fall as I don't want the car off the road for a week or more while I change the engine. Has anyone had any luck using those oil leak repair additives? I am pretty sure I have a rope style seal in the engine in the car.

And your car will never tell you "not tonight I have a headache".

I have been to the Syracuse Nationals about a dozen times as it is only about 10 miles from our house. Normally I show my '51 Cambridge but not this year. My sister picked Nationals weekend to get married so I guess I will be doing the hotel parking lot tour If you plan on going, Friday is the best day. The cars will all be there and the spectator crowd is smaller. Saturday will be a zoo as there will be about 50,000 spectators on top of the 8,000+ cars. Sunday is really not worth going. Most folks leave for home on Sunday morning.

Lots of good advice here Seth. We all started working on cars when they were tuned with gauges and tools instead of a smartphone. Start slow, one system at a time. I suggest under the hood first, (make it run), then the brakes (make it stop), the drivetrain (make it drive), the rest of the electrical system concentrating on the lighting system (make it safe), then make it pretty. Carb rebuilds are simple, figure a couple of hours if it is fairly clean inside. If you go the rebuild route pay strict attention to the two little balls. They are NOT the same size!!! If you put the big one in the hole for the small one you will not be able to get it out without making up a lot of new four letter words. Like Greg G said, get the shop manual. It is invaluable. Get the paper copy, not the one on a CD. Nothing better than to be able to read and look at pictures in a book while looking at the parts when working on them. Take lots of pictures for reference. You won't be able to remember exactly how everything goes back together two weeks later. Right now your best tools will be a 5 gallon bucket of kerosene or diesel fuel for parts cleaner and a good selection of brushes and scrapers to remove 70+ years of built up grime. We are all here to help you and remember, the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask. One more piece of advice.....don't use the dishwasher for a parts cleaner. They do a great job but your mother will not appreciate it. Mike

You need to go to Hershey in the fall.

Baseball glove conditioning oil is basically a form of neatsfoot oil.

The fitting should be a 1/8" NPT male by female flare. It is something that NAPA stocks. I just got 4 of them for my engine rebuild project. I am using 3/16" brake line tubing to plumb up the oil filter.

I made this post so I could collect data and inform NAPA of the issue. The local NAPA gang has reported the issue but told me they doubted it went anywhere. They suggested that I collect a lot of complaints and pass it along to NAPAs Atlanta HQ.

Or you can go the easy way and get an Equus temp gauge at AutoZone for $20.

We are going and hope to be following a black 46 Plymouth Business Coupe.