Ranger

I’m attempting to replace a ball and trunion joint. The pin is worn and pitted (years of running with no dust cover I suspect.) I’ve read all the posts and watched all the UTubes I can find. I have a 10 ton hydraulic press and built a jig to set the joint in to allow room for the pin to press out. I’ve been using heat and penetrating oil with the press but it hasn’t moved. Do I need a bigger press? More heat? Anyone who has removed these pins please comment.

What.......no pictures!

Thanks for sharing!

Now that’s a glove box!

Why not just install a tach so you always know what the engine is doing. Fairly inexpensive and easy to install.

I took the ‘36 for a spin yesterday. Fired right up. Temps in the 60’s the last couple of days and I “summarized” the snow blower. We’ll see a few more cold days but the worst of winter is over. Of course, we just returned from Arizona so it wasn’t a bad winter at all.

Just out of curiosity I dug out the horn that came with my 1936 Plymouth. It is a lot different from yours. Has a wider throat and doesn’t flair up at the end like yours. You’ve got a cool looking horn there.

Choke the hell out of it. Pump the hell out of it. Adjust choke as necessary as it warm up. Each car is different. You’ll learn what yours likes. A 12 volt conversion is nice and you can add a CD player and a cell phone charger but you also need to change the lights and fuel gauge. Or switch from a 6 volt battery to an 8 volt.

I’ve had no luck searching for 1936 Plymouth conversion parts either. Got a similar response from Rusty Hope a year or so ago. 1936 was apparently a one off year for several parts. At this point I’m keeping the drum brakes and driving slow and careful.

Yep! Sounds like timing. Distributor 180 off or plug wires mixed up. Easy enough to do even if you’re trying to keep everything in order.

A ‘36 Plymouth grill. I found one on eBay a few years ago but blinked at the last minute and lost it. Too spendy anyway. I’ve fabricated one but an original would be nice to find.

Thanks knuckelharley. I’ve kept everything that I’ve ever replaced. Good and bad. I still have it. Except the rubber. Not much left to save there.

Love the 1936 Plymouth. I have a 36 business coupe. Bought it in 1964. I drove the heck out of it in high school just as it was. The original owner had replaced the engine with a 1941, from the serial number. I drove it winter and summer. Girls always wanted a ride. I could beat 6 cyl. Chevys in the 1/4 mile and cruise at 50 mph all day. It would cut great donuts in the snow. Fast forward about 35 years......I still have it and cruise around town. The rear gear is 4.11 factory and 50 mph is about as far as I want to wind it up. I don’t take it out on the 65mph highway into Bend. The 36 is a one year for some parts. No one makes a disc brake conversion for it. No, not even Rusty Hope. The rear brake cylinders are one year. I finally found someone making replacements on EBay. Also the front motor mount was hard to find. Finally, recently found that on EBay from Vintage Mopar. The U-joints are ball and trunion which are difficult to replace and spendy. I’m considering converting to a T-5 five speed, and a newer rear. This will require a new driveshaft with modern U-joints and a new bell housing. What you have is good and dependable. Just depends on keeping it original or improving highway drive ability. Have fun!

Thanks for sharing this project and your knowledge. I’m certainly interested in watching the entire project. Good job, appreciate your experience.

Great looking ride. Always been a favorite of mine. Those carbs are easy to rebuild, the kit is not expensive and work well when doing the job correctly. That being said I eventually swapped mine out but considering going back to the original. A carb rebuild would be a good winter project.