_shel_ny

Information needs to be provided from both ends. Just because the person asking a question knows what they mean, does not mean that the person responding knows what they mean. I get it all the time at home. Like you know that place just before .......................... Just before? Where are you coming from? North, South................ like which way is up, down, over

Not a finger point at this thread specifically, but many times on the forums, questions are asked to elicit a response to that question, that just leads to more questions, when additional information could have been provided initially as to the why, and where for prompting the question. It's like, I'm going to throw this line out there for you to grab. It's my line, and you are not going to be pulled to shore unless you pull back. You are going to play 20 questions with me. There is something on the other side of this door, and I am not going to put a glass in there so that you can see it. The door is locked. I am the key. EDIT: as 4mula said it's not a hands on, everyone looking at the job where they can reach out and touch it, and converse back and forth while doing the job. It's got to be a total pain in the backside to text out a phone message to communicate here. Personally, I would not know, because I have never sent a phone text, and have no plans to ever do so

As said, gasket does the deed. You can cut a hole in the gasket where the hole is, or leave it solid.

Niel, thank you for putting the end to the game of 20 questions

Huh, no rats, or dogs available where you live.............

May work for your u bolt, but it will be tough for a fella to find a mirror image defective tire to make an axle set I suppose by trial, and error someone could eventually ruin a tire to match Hard to find matching defective tires here at the u-pulls, as most wheels/tires are a they-pull before you get there

bump

Wire replacement, and cleaning of all the connection including all associated grounds may improve the heat situation by reducing resistance thereby lowering the current draw. You might consider installing a relay for the headlights to also reduce that current going through the switch. The switch would then just control the relay. Do advanced search "headlight relay" for some ideas/threads on that

Oil should pump to the filter almost as soon as it does to any place else. Your head gasket should not be bad unless it was already and was reused You said in an earlier post that you had the head off but I don't recall if you said you used a new gasket A broken spring on the oil pressure relief valve if stuck in the open position would allow oil to drain back to the pan, but there should be some indication that oil had flowed through the filter canister If stuck in the closed position the canister would fill and remain filled

possible identification could be made with pics of the ID plates that are not showing in the pics you provided

http://www.sparkpeople.com/myspark/team_messageboard_thread.asp?board=0x41173x32541732 or Popular Science Sept 1965 https://www.google.com/search?q=spark+pencil+test&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Some have master and wheel cylinders sleeved rather than replacing. Inspecting your parts may help to decide which way to go. If you do Rock Auto be sure to use a discount code for 5% savings. I have had good experiences with them. When ordering things you just have to watch the shipping. If it starts coming from multiple locations, the shipping will jump up. 2981503327366595 good till May 24, 15 Enter the code above in the "How Did You Hear About Us?" space

That's probably a 1 gauge, or smaller cable. Many places list it for newer 12 volt applications,

Plus, if not started regularly, the fuel in the carb will evaporate, and additional cranking will be needed to get fuel from the pump to the carb.

Is this "free enterprise", or has the entire world been bitten by a rabid dog, and gone completely mad Good news is, you can get the MoPar keepers for only $167.85 At that price there should be about 500 in the package.

You can click this link and scroll down to get some more color info for other parts. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/p15_reference.html

Knew what you meant If my memory serves, approx. 44.004945 N, 76.000625 W (google earth) With the door open, and no top, may be very little inside. May be no floor , but being second level off the ground maybe there is. Edit: 44.013744, -76.001748 (google maps) Will put you a the wrong driveway. Need to go up the road about 1750 feet, then about 1192 feet up the road from the mailbox, near where the 3rd power pole from the mailbox is located, where the lines cross the road, almost directly across from the entrance to the transfer station, then turn right and follow the direction of the tree line to about 977 feet from the road intersecting a line about 1477 feet from the driveway (mailbox) diagonally.

Late 1979 I bought a 72-73 Ford LTD, cheap. $200-300, don't remember. It had a crunched right front fender. I was able to remove one that was the same color at a junk yard. It had a small dent, but with it being the same color, I went ahead and swapped it out. The car used oil, and had a miss. Turned out that the owner had loaned it to a family with 6 or so kids. They were going someplace and their regular vehicles weren't big enough for all to fit. While they were using the car there was some sort of problem. I believe it was raining, and the car didn't run well. Garage/gas station, or some place replaced the distributor cap. When the cap was replaced, the wires were put on wrong and bent some push rods. When I put the wires where they belonged, and replaced the push rods (I think it was like 4 of them) it ran great. Still used oil, but ran great. The oil was the down fall. One dark night I was exceeding the speed limit by several MPH when the engine quit. Apparently the oil was a bit low, and at the rate the engine was pumping the oil, I believe it cavitated, and lost oil pressure. I was at the top of a hill. Somewhat pronounced descent of about 235', then along a somewhat flat area with a gradual rise of about 70' to a level roadway, and continued coasting along until I pulled to the side to park. The stopping point was over a mile (EDIT: according to google maps, seems like it was closer to 2 miles) from where the dash lights came on. Got it towed, and ended up selling it to a guy that wanted the transmission. It was a nice riding car. Went back to driving my '73 B-100 van with a /6. Traded the van to a guy for some ceiling drywall work along in the 1990's. He was going to rear out all the custom interior work, and haul his motorcycle in it.

all the sticks a man could want there

Better some flowers, than the entire forest.

http://www.monroe.co...LengthSheet.pdf

The ignition cylinder that is available from the "MoPar" vendors for $$$ may well be the same one that comes from the parts stores for $. They very well may not be NOS 1940's, 1950's cylinders. As we know, the pricing is all in what the buyer is willing to pay, coupled with a lack of source knowledge. Right now through Sears . com you can buy 100 postage stamps for $65.63 + $6.25 shipping (shipping may vary be location). Post Office price $49 in person, or via "stamps by mail" from your PO delivered to your PO box, or home delivery if you get that. At USPS . com online for $49 + $1.30 handling. On eBay from USPS for $49 + $1.30 handling. Through Sears . com 90 stamps for $86.01 + 11.75 S&H (5 vending books of 18)(90 stamps $44.10 @ PO)

Don, what about the nail in my pic?

The 14400 cylinder is a 4 position switch that I know fits 46 and up switches, but I can not help with confirming the fit for anything earlier. There were different switches used. Some cylinder fit from 35 up. Others do not.

$94.50 + shipping for switch and cylinder.