_shel_ny
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Everything posted by _shel_ny
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purposely divert attention from what would otherwise be of greater importance, to something else of lesser significance. By doing so, the lesser-significant event is catapulted into the limelight, drowning proper attention to what was originally the more important issue. No, would not do that.
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,,,
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Logical, but I read it as will buy a new battery just in case it is charged reverse Personally I would just install the battery the right way. My thought is PO just stuck it in backwards
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Starts, and runs. Why do you need a new battery?
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Now your tail lights could be dim because of 6 volts.............................. if someone stuck 12 volt bulbs in there
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...
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Time to make your project car a Dodge Club Coupe, so if you ask questions, or need some help everyone will know what car you are dealing with
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What does the title/bill of sale/registration call it? Was it registered/titled with the serial number, or engine number? Will there be department of motor vehicles problems in NC if there are errors?
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Has anyone said condenser, or is that eliminated by the facts already stated?
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You will find that the $95 listing is one of the aforementioned sellers (new ownership) ebay site
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Back a while I had my oil pump out. Did not move the dizzy. Installed the pump per manual instructions. The dizzy tang apparently did not drop in the pump slot. When the engine turned the tang fell in 180 out. I tried turning my dizzy, just as you have, but no start. The forum replies got me to put things back where they belonged. (rotor) I used a piece of tape to confirm #1 on compression stroke. (my compression tester is the type you have to hold in place. Not enough hands for that) I used an inline spark tester to confirm that the spark was going to the #1 cylinder at the correct time.
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http://p15-d24.com/topic/39423-brake-shoes/
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D25 #'s
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I do understand that the OP said Plymouth. I do understand the suggestion of possibly a D25 What I saw at the allpar site with the # that the OP provided was the SN's for D24, therefore my statement of this may, or may not help. 30, 822, 246 appeared to fall in the 30, 799, 738 to 31, 011, 765 range of 1947 D24. Perhaps this vehicle acquired a new serial # tag along the way
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? ? ? is the question "where" ? Said may, or may not help. Did not know we were talking body # Thought 30, 822 ,246 fell in the range shown. My error. Sorry for the input.
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... EDIT: had to attach pic
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This may, or may not help as that # falls in the 1947 D24 range http://www.allpar.com/old/model-guide/
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Replace the drum. You can use a left or right drum. Only difference is thread direction for the nuts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-1949-1950-1951-48-49-50-51-DODGE-CORONET-FRONT-BRAKE-HUB-DRUM-/141723559680?hash=item20ff61e700&vxp=mtr Or take it some place that can remove the studs, and have new ones pressed in. I do not have the # for new studs, but the procedure has been posted here before. Shop doing the work would probably have #'s.
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Generic pic from 1954 and prior parts manual.
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Generic pic from 1954 and prior parts manual. My book does not have the part #'s for 49-50, 51-52 Dodge #'s for most of those parts.
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My sperry meter has only a 1K reading for resistance, so it is not much help to read a sisson either. Direct application (quick flash) of 6 volts has been the best way for me to check a sisson choke. Best done with the choke isolated from the starter. The wire from the choke to starter can conduct enough voltage to engage the starter. Been there, done that
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And per manual installation instructions tighten the 4 bolts that secure intake to exhaust after the other 13 nuts/bolts to insure that both intake and exhaust are seated properly against the gaskets/block.
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Checking the sisson choke with a meter can be misleading. The choke is just an electro magnet. A coil of wire wrapped around a core, so it has a very low resistance. My cheesy HF digital meters don't even zero out on ohms so I can;t even check one with them
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Energizing the sisson choke always pulls the rod connected to the choke, but how far it closes is determined by the bi-metallic spring in the base of the sisson. I believe fully closed or there abouts with a cold engine, and progressively less as the spring is affected by rising manifold temperatures. EDIT: spelling
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Follow the static timing procedure
