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We sold large corks like this in the hardware store where i worked. http://www.widgetco.com/size-36-cork-stoppers-agglomerated?gclid=Cj0KEQjwr8uuBRCcg6-s-4TrmIsBEiQAN1TdEV8gG0bQXcpHkaPMD50n2VswU1oyagOH61MV3qfo0W0aAuje8P8HAQ http://www.widgetco.com/size-38-cork-stoppers-agglomerated

There may be some oil running back from the valve/valve spring area, but should not be enough to get concerned about.

My D24 kept oil in the filter canister because the relief valve plunger closes when the engine is shut off. My oil level would read correct as I put the correct amount in starting out.

My 48 D24 did not have the rivets front or rear.

Some things are available through your local parts stores.

White Spyder: I hearby award you an honorary P15-D24 dentistry degree for persistence in your successful extraction Also a gold star from Job

Not a street rescue, but after the fuel pump went on my S-10 I got it hauled home on an equipment trailer. I rolled it off the back by myself, and let it coast to a stop by itself in the bushes. J. Edgar then had the privilege of easing it forward enough to a spot where the tank was dropped, and replaced. I think he was smiling at the time. Almost like in this frosty pic sittin' next to Frank. Looks like a smile with the big mouthful of stainless grill teeth.

D24 after 30993973 used 15". Edit 1: 1947 production #'s 30799738 to 31011765 Reference: MoPar 1954 and prior models Passenger Car Parts List Edit 2: add pic. P15 had to complicate it a bit more:

OK, I am now educated. I will go to my corner as it was not my intent to provide misinformation

Looks like the remains of a thermostat to me. I have seen about a half dozen, and they never had an insert. OK, I am now educated. See next.

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As suggested, look at the item in question to be sure. Seeing is most often believable. You can be told anything. Unless you know without a doubt that the item is original/untouched to the donor vehicle it could be anything. Ask 6 people, get 6 different answers

Years have passed , so I can not be sure anymore, but I believe at the time, that i tried setting all for the least circumference.

2357 brighter for the brake/turn filament. Tail filament probably same lumens/c.p.

Looks like 1st pic in post #1 is the winner

Brake shop relined my shoes. As a favor (probably size they had) they put on thicker linings. My never turned drums, centered with an Ammco tool, would not go on until after making 2 trips back to the shop to have the lining thickness reduced. Shoes were fitted to the drums during the process.

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4# cap is probably correct for your 1950 Chrysler. Parts book shows plain, and 4# numbers for 1950 Chrysler 6 The # J-127 is just the vendors internal system reference #. They will send you the correct one for your vehicle. If you want to be sure 160 or 180, a call to them would provide that info. 1954(and prior models) Passenger Car Parts List has #s for either a 160, or 180 thermostat. Ones like Don's are available at many parts stores. Putting in a 160 thermostat will not help overheating problems( if you indeed have one) Edit: the style of thermostat housing(internal bypass, or internal bypass ) that you have will determine the physical type needed.

site advertiser list tank sending unit: http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-fuel.aspx

fuel pump: if you need one. pump can only pump the fuel that can get to it. https://www.google.com/search?q=55+plaza+fuel+pump&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 73201 pump available from NAPA to Rock Auto to Parts Geek, to ebay ........ http://p15-d24.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1

Weld it closed. drill a new hole ????

Have you completely eliminated the tail light function from the original fender mounted lights????? Do you have them connected as brake lights only???? Is someone, or a stick, holding the brake pedal down when you are making this observation???? Do you have turn signals with this vehicle(dual filament bulbs in the sockets)???? If you have turn signals, you have opened a whole new bucket of worms. Undo your splicing and wiring. Return the taillight brake/turn signal wiring back to the way it was, and splice in your new stalk lights as additional brake lights to augment the trunk mounted high brake light.

One wire is hot(power) all the time. That wire is most likely getting power from the lighting switch under the dash, but only as a common connection electrically. It could be connected anywhere that has power all the time. I do not know if it is controlled by the circuit breaker that is built into the headlight switch. It may be. Voltage regulator has nothing to do with power to the lights. You can determine which wire is which by unhooking them one at a time, and testing for 6 volts from that individual wire to ground . Once you determine which is which you could leave the one that goes to the lights in the back unhooked. Then before getting all froggy and running under the carpet, or under the vehicle, just run a test wire (16 gauge or heavier) outside the vehicle to the back eliminating the existing wire. There is also a disconnect (insulated bullet connector) in the trunk somewhere near the high brake light (follow the wire back from the socket to locate it) that can be unhooked to eliminate the existing wire from front to back completely for your test. I would unhook both ends. Personally I do not think that there is a problem with the front to back wire. You are using that same wire when you say that the lights get brighter when you unhook one light. Your problem is in the back with the bulbs,or bulb sockets, or modifications, or connections. Clean the socket spring clips down to bare metal for good grounds. Make sure you have not wired up so that the front parking lights come on with the brakes.

one wire on the hydraulic switch is power in. Hot all the time. The other wire goes to the brake light(s) where it goes through the filament(s) to ground.

The wires on my car were in good condition. Dome light wire switch wiring was also routed along with those wires. I would suspect that any dimming/brightening of the lights is more likely to be associated with wiring/connections/bulbs/modifications in the rear.