_shel_ny
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Everything posted by _shel_ny
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When I registered with YOM plates the application with photos of the plates had to be sent to Albany (state capital) Local DMV could not approve the plates. After selling the car, I sold the plates to a guy that wanted to use them on his 1948 Playboy. When he sent the application in they told him he would need a letter signed by me releasing ownership of the plates to him before he could use them to register. I sent him a letter, and never heard back. Not sure how he made out. The plates were in good enough condition for me to get approval for use, but were freshened up after I registered. They were sold with the understanding that they may only be useful to collect, or for display.
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Brake shoes with primary and secondary linings
_shel_ny replied to mopar_earl's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Wife's new car. Had hood open twice in 10 months. Once to pull the oil filter and mark it before the "free" oil change included in the purchase, and again to check to see if the filter had been changed. -
These are from a 48 Dodge, and may or may not help. Park brake diagram may be too generic for your vehicle, but may give a general layout.
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You may find this thread helpful. Scroll up to 1st post to start. http://p15-d24.com/topic/38861-the-most-likely-reason-the-clutch-does-not-fully-return/?hl=%2Btorque+%2Bshaft#entry408797
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http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xstarter+switch+1941+plymouth.TRS0&_nkw=starter+switch+1941+plymouth&_sacat=0
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1948 D24 pics. Will look for some more. Over 10K pics on my computer. Sometimes takes a while to locate specific ones. Edit: single heater vehicle.
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Clesters
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http://p15-d24.com/links/category/8-rubber-parts-suppliers/
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This is a good read. Possibly something for folks to bookmark. Just keep in mind that systems can be (+) ground, or (-) ground. Adjust the read accordingly. http://www.gasenginemagazine.com/gas-engines/understanding-breaker-point-ignition-systems.aspx?PageId=1
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Still havent given up on the dream of a Pilothouse
_shel_ny replied to Mikec4193's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Not sure if it is a "pilothouse", but here's a place to start on your own Dodge:
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I would be more than happy to give him a hand with the car (with what little I know), but may be too far away. may be someone nearer that could assist.
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This is the second time that you have asked this questions. Both times in an unrelated thread. You had responses to your question in the other thread. Are you unable to go back to threads where you have posted to review responses? Your question would be best answered by starting your own thread where you could see the responses, and ask more questions if needed. Previous thread with your question: http://p15-d24.com/topic/39647-dodge-is-running/page-2 To start your own thread follow link. Then on the right side you will see a box that says ** Start New Topic** http://p15-d24.com/forum/4-p15-d24-forum/
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The single light indicator is physically similar to this one. It would not have the 2 side bulbs for the turn indicators. The front would have just a center hole with a red jewel. A bulb is mounted in the center socket which threads on to hold the whole thing in place. You could have a bad bulb, or no power from the dimmer sw. to the socket.
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Fluid coupling. Fill at plug that is circled. (it would be accessible at about the 2 o'clock position through the assess panel in the floor, and the access plug in the bell housing)
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EDIT:Transmission Upper plug fill. Lower plug drain.
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The same core was used 1949-1953. Caps changed from 4-7 somewhere in 52 for the Dodge. You may be just fine with a 7. Of course, that is your decision to make. Good part about a 52 is the heater core is no longer inside the passenger compartment like it was back in 48.
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New non-stock look tank. $230 delivered. Correct look repop seems to be available for about $380 delivered, ebay., but that being said as has been suggested have a look inside first. I do not think you need to drop the tank to inspect it. You can remove the sending unit and have a look. Inspection mirror if needed. You may just be able to leave the horse in the barn where it is now, and put the cart back as well. I think your sequence of repair ideas is also out of order. You would not boil it out and then put gravel(or a chain) in it. Having it boiled out would likely get the inside cleaned. Will they even boil one out in CA.? I had one done here for a '51. Clean out, and coat the outside. It needed repairs. I did not get the inside done. As to the other part of your question. Some have suggested introducing air into the tank via the fuel outlet during the drying process to keep the liner from plugging up the built in filter. Others have eliminated the in tank filter by various means.
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Help! Stumped on P15 Standard Clutch Replacement
_shel_ny replied to J.P.G.'s topic in P15-D24 Forum
Will punch easily with a drift. Did not have any corrosion the four I have dealt with. The one in the pic looks nasty as it has been exposed for years. Edit: keep in mind that with all the bolts out the housing will have a tendency to fall when you drive the dowels out
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Help! Stumped on P15 Standard Clutch Replacement
_shel_ny replied to J.P.G.'s topic in P15-D24 Forum
Do advanced search. "George Ashe". Lots to read. -
Back a while I believe you had used up your photo space allotment here on the site. Did you delete some at that time to make room? If so, it may be gone.
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Can you still get stuff there? Wasn't there just a rant about that vendor not being available, or unresponsive? There are other sources for those parts.
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Help! Stumped on P15 Standard Clutch Replacement
_shel_ny replied to J.P.G.'s topic in P15-D24 Forum
You do not need to remove the bell housing to remove the clutch and pressure plate. Remove the pan assy. 6-10-2. Turn the engine by hand to gain access to the bolts holding the pressure plate (6-14-1 in the diagram.) As Don C and others have suggested in the past, make a scribe mark or 2 of your choice on the flywheel and pressure plate to assist in locating in back where it came from when you put it all back in. You can remove spring 6-27-5, and let rod 6-24-1 swing down to take pressure off the fork 6-22-1 (not that there is much there, but it will let the fork and release bearing flop around a bit more.) The clutch and pressure plate do not touch the bell housing. They must be free to turn. -
You might pose the ? to the operator of the store for an answer.
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Is this the correct starting position :confused: I think you are talking about "anchor bolts". Anchor bolts have arrows
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Polarity will also affect the direction of build up.
