46Ply

Good information boys! Thanks. As soon as my cracked rib heals up from getting under the dash to put the heater back in, I'll go in again, to get that high beam indicator out. I like the red toothbrush idea as a source of red plastic. I don't have any legos!

Does anyone have a pictorial display of the 89-39-3 indicator assembly. I found the diagram in the parts manual, but I still don't see how it's held into the dash. It's all intact and works properly, but the red diffuser is missing, and the bulb shines right in your eye when driving. I'd like to replace the red diffuser, if I knew what it looked like, and where to find one, or see what it looks like so that I could fabricate it. (Is it red? green?)

My reason for asking was because my inlet and outlet are almost directly horizontally across from one another. And the inlet now is the one on the right closest to the back of the head. The one on the left goes back to the water pump.

This might be another dumb question, but does it make any difference which direction the water goes through the heater core?

I think the original pattern for a P15 is available here. It's called Sapele. Not sure about DeSoto. http://www.woodgraining.com/album/

Henselwoods wrote: " Don't quite understand how things started to get harder to do than 45 years ago. Ya think its because of the water?" It's either that or the bridge it went under!

I'm with DeSotoDav, Put some paint on it!

Yea, I can see that now. I just posted the first one that came up. It is clearly a "universal" jack. If you do a search on ebay there's a bunch of them out there. But, can't say any of them are for your specific application.

Here's a nice one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-NOS-BUMPER-JACK-UNIVERSAL-STAMPING-CO-USA-FORD-CHEVY-MOPAR-NEW-OLD-STOCK-/262118532406?hash=item3d077b6536:g:KHAAAOSwo0JWKYnf&vxp=mtr

Beautiful pictures. God's got his paint brush out!

Heater repaired. Yea, I bit the bullet and bought a new core. Gave it a paint job while I was at it.

T314 236ci or 251ci 25 inches Dodge Truck B-3-FL, B-4-FL, B-3-F, B-4-F, B-3-FA 1951-1953 That's the way I see it.

Just what I was looking for. I have a Philco 802 that needs a new dial glass or restoration.

She's a dandy!

I'd say the $175 restored is the best deal out there. I'm looking for a 802 restored. Actually I have two 802s, and looking for a good shop to restore one of them.

Looking' good!

Casper, Have you seen this post? http://p15-d24.com/topic/30329-question-of-dimmensions/?hl=%2Bplymouth+%2Bfender+%2Bthe+%2Bfront#entry303056

Thanks for that PDF on the options. About the parking light lenses. Is there any identifying marks on the lenses to let you know if they are installed properly? (Assuming you still have the originals.)

Thanks boys, that's what I was thinking. I told them it only holds 5 lb. pressure when I took it in there. Now, all I have to do is find some one who will fix that pinhole. If I was any good at all in soldering I'd plug it up myself.

Update... I cleaned the core with CLR and hot water as suggested. Then I submerged it in a bucket of water and blew compressed air in one tube as I held the other tube shut. I do have one small leak in the last row. The shop tells me these can't be repaired. Does anyone know otherwise?

Thanks Joe, All I can tell you is that the radiator shop said it couldn't be repaired, and would leak again if I use it. They want to install a new core. It was in the car when I got it, but the outlet hose was plugged. I bought a shutoff valve, connected it and it did produce heat, but the fan was rattling, so I decided to take it out, correct the rattle and paint the housing, clean it up, etc. And it does show signs of past leakage. The previous owner had the car for some long time and the heater sat with coolant in it but was never circulating. I drained it and the coolant was a little dark. I haven't tried anything in the way of cleaning it or checking the circulation, given it shows signs of corrosion on the core and some rust on the inside of the housing where it has leaked in the past. Wonder if it's worth a shot to try and clean it up and check the flow? As for the bent tube it will go back together the way it is, but the inlet and outlet don't fit the openings in the housing or the firewall properly. And I've tried to straighten it, but not aggressively, afraid I would make it worse.

Here's one with the pinstriping just for comparison.

Two problems. Radiator shop tells me it can't be repaired and needs a new core. $215! But before I commit to doing that I need to fix a slight bend in the inlet tube. It's difficult to get it through the housing and then positioned properly when I do. So, how do I correct the alignment of the inlet and outlet tubes to center on the holes in the housing? The inlet tube appears to be where the problem is, and it does have a small crimp or two in it, and also has had a small patch put on it sometime in the past. And, I'm still wondering who made this heater.

Thanks Casper, I saw that ad. Looks like the "Heater, Twin All Weather Model" at a cost of $88.95" might be the same thing as: "Comfort Masters 53 and 54 for LH and RH" ?

Just learned that my heater core is leaking and a replacement is $215. Does anyone know of a source for heater cores? And also, will the model 54 interchange with the one pictured.