soth122003

Andy B's. Reasonable price, but shipping is a little high. https://www.oldmoparts.com/autos/1934-plymouth/?your-car=1&pa_year-made=1934&pa_make=plymouth&pa_model=all-models&pa_engine=all-engines&pa_od Joe Lee

I hope the Pertronix works out for you. I don't know what the failure rate is for them, but when the go you are stuck, which means a tow home. I would, just for peace of mind, look for another breaker plate and assemble one as a spare. That way if the Pertonix does fail, you can be on your way with about 5-10 minutes of work. Just a thought as there is no rush to assemble one now and you can take your time getting one. Joe Lee

Found the leak. It's the gasket connecting the horn to the float bowl. Best I can figure is when i rebuilt it years ago the gasket material was thick enough to cover the warped horn or worn edge of the bowl section. The JB repair works just fine but for the warp/wear I need a thicker gasket or a another carb. Found one on ebay for &50 that looks Identical but is a Carter B&B E7T2. The Motors Manual I have only goes up to 1953 so it is not listed. Is this an actual B&B for a later year vehicle? If anyone can give me a heads-up on what the carb went to, I would appreciate it. I ordered it and will rebuild it to use in the P-15 and the other one I will try to rebuild as a spare. With the warp and the JB repair The trust factor has gone down a bit, but it should be a good standby for future carb rebuilds/emergencies. Joe Lee

Sorry, what you is what I got. Joe Lee

Well JB'd the seat and it is still leaking. It didn't leak with the prime pump, but started leaking after the engine was running. I have the male to male adapter on the seat to connect a barb end for a fuel hose instead of the steel line. (came that way) I wonder if one of the adapters is cracked. I'll have friend help check for that tomorrow before ordering a carb I might not need. Joe Lee

I didn't have a problem with points just wanted to switch to a pertonix. I switched and 3 months after the 3 year warranty expired so did the pertonix. went back to points and haven't had a problem. Joe Lee

According to the Motors Manual the 1948 New Yorker is a C-39N. It has only one listing for a distributor. IGT-4201-1. Joe Lee

I had the same problem as well, but a different outcome. The armature on the genny was toast and the VR was bad as well. Found a genny on ebay and got it installed but the ear mounts were off set differently and wouldn't work on my car. Pulled the end caps of the old genny and put them on the new one and it installed fine. The worst part was a double failure at the same time. It had me chasing my tail for weeks. Joe Lee

I've been running the 205/75/15 steel belted on my P-15 for 12 years now with out a tube. Just make sure you clean the inner rim real good. I wire brushed mine and then painted them to seal the area were the clips are attached to prevent any leaks. Instead of using led weights, I use 4-5 oz of airsoft pellets inside the wheels for the balance. The car tracks straight and true unless the wind picks up or the road is bad. Here is a tire sizing chart to convert the old style to radials. Joe Lee Tire size Chart.txt

What area are you in Sal? Might be a member close by that help with some of these issues. Joe Lee

Normally the clutch plate is about 3/8" thick (or more), when I pulled mine it was less than a 1/4" thick and some of the rivet heads were worn as well. Also it was smooth as glass. Not good for a gripping surface. Joe Lee

Thanks Sniper. I'll have to wait a bit tho. My carb seemed like it blew up the other day. Fuel leaking like a sieve. I was starting my car and heard a small backfire through the carb and the car started running like crap and died. Checked the carb and it was leaking all over the place, like soaked from top to bottom. I thought I had blown a worn out gasket and as I had just got the carb kit a few days before, I rebuilt the carb yesterday. Put it on today and it leaked like no tomorrow. Pulled the carb and it turned out the hole where the seat screws into the bowl had stripped threads. Only about 2 threads left intact. Because the carb is made out of pot metal, there really isn't a fix for this. I am trying my luck with JB Weld and hoping for the best. If not ebay has quite a few B&B carbs on is site. I can use on of those and mine to hopefully make one good one if the JB doesn't work. I'll update later. Joe Lee

I too had to replace one cylinder on the front. The piston rusted in place and wouldn't move, but it didn't leak. Joe Lee

If you had a restrictive exhaust, the engine would knida buck and stumble, due to the back pressure. Remember the kids putting the potato in the tailpipe? even a partial obstruction would hinder engine performance, like a miss in the cylinder or a back fire through the carb. running rough things like that. You stated in 3rd the engine runs fine and just won't go past 40mph or so. The gearshifting on these old cars goes about like this, 1st 0-15 mph, 2nd 15-25/30, 3rd 30 on up. In 3rd the torque output from the engine is over riding the grip of the clutch plate to the flywheel. I just changed my clutch assy 3-4 months ago for that very problem. Now it will climb a tree in 3rd. Joe Lee

If the motor revs and it don't go, it's either the fluid drive or the clutch plate or both. The rear end is kinda like a fixed item. It only uses what is given from the tranny. Like I said before, i don't really know about fluid drives but if it won't go, double check the fluid level. Also see if there is an inspection plate you can take off and check the clutch plate, and pressure plate. On normal 3 speed tannys it is on the lower side or bottom. Joe Lee

I did that to. Had pits in the piston area but not where the cup traveled. Been that way for a while. BUT!!! The need to check them more often for leakage has increased, so inspect them about twice a year. You can use it that way, but put it on the to do list of things to replace when you get the time or money. How's that old saying go, You can only polish a ******* so much till you hit the soft center. Joe Lee

I used to before I retired in 2020. I put over 20K miles on it since 2013. Joe Lee

For me I don't think that will be a problem. I have a filter at the tank before the electric prime pump and then the mechanical fuel pump has a brass mesh screen that filters out any chunks that make it that far. This filter is to ascertain fuel is being delivered to the carb and that the fuel is clean and not contaminated with little specks of debris or water. Also looking at the filter and its price, I don't think the element is replaceable. Just looking at the gap between the filter and the inside of the glass bowl, there is nothing holding it in place. At about $35-$40, it is only replaced about every few years, depending on the state of the filter maybe 5 years. Open the bowl and clean it out then spray the filter element with carb cleaner the freshen it up. For the price I'll go that route. IMHO. Desoto1939 and Dodgeb4ya should be able to chime in on this as they are using this type of filter in the vehicles. Joe Lee

When animal danger shows it's face, you only have to faster than the slowest person there.

Went to visit my buddy Bob in the hospital. Saw him with both arms and legs in a cast, his face and chest looked like someone took an angle grinder to him. "Sweet Jesus I cried out what happened to him?" His friend John that was in the room, said "you know. it's kinda funny. We went out hunting and found this cave. We went inside and there was this bear lying in the floor. Bob looks at me and says in a loud voice, "you think it's dead or just asleep?

I'm thinking about one of these for my 48 P-15. https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/p_fuel/original-glass-style-bowl-fuel-filter/ Joe Lee

I don't know a lot about the fluid drives, but it seems to me if you can't go that fast in 3rd, maybe the clutch plate is worn out. I just changed my clutch assy this past summer, and 1st and 2nd seemed good but when going into 3rd, the engine would build up the rpm fast but the car speed was not there. It would take a few minutes to get to about 40mph from 25mph. Since I was in town, I did not need to go faster. Makes me wonder if it could or would the clutch slip and not grab that good limiting the speed? I knew it was the clutch slipping on the pressure plate and could get a light wiff of it as well. When I changed the clutch plate it was worn smooth and down to and in some cases past the rivets. Just throwing this out there as a possible cause. Joe Lee

I think it's the size of the lip on the backside that the clips lock into that might differ. IMHO. Joe Lee

Have you stored the car with the tank empty, full, part way? Condensation builds up slowly over time. May have some water in the tank. That is one of the reasons they put the plug in the tank, to drain out water and crud that will settle at the bottom. Had a 66 vette that loved to attract water in the tank. Used to drain out about a quart or two every year. Joe Lee

This might seem like silly question, but did you check under the seat for an access cover to the sending unit? I mean they put them in the cars so you wouldn't have to drop the tank to troubleshoot wiring problems. Make sense they would put them in the trucks as well. Joe Lee