soth122003

I don't know if you have already done this, but did you thoroughly check out the carb? Sounds more like a fuel issue than distributer. Of course with the luck you seem to be having it might be both, which can really add to troubleshooting woes. To one of your previous questions I had a Pertronix install with the resistor wires and the flamethrower coil. Worked great until 2 months after the warranty ran out then quit. Went back to points and only had the usual maintanence issues. Points file fixed that though. Joe Lee

They are machine screws and they will come out. I had to shorten my screws as they also help set the distance to actuate the horn. Page 112 in the Plymouth service manual has the horn diagrams and should help with troubleshooting. Joe Lee

On the 46-54 model Plymouth Mopars there weren't fittings per se. There was a small screw plug that was removed and lubed with about 2-4 pumps of a light pressure grease gun then sealed back up with the plugs. Just check the 1946-54 manual and it states a 1/2 oz of medium fiber grease. Pg 311 of the Plymouth service manual. Check your Chrystler manual in the lubrication section. Hope that helps. Joe Lee

Chapter 1 paragraph 2. in the how to get ahead in life. THERE IS ONE BORN EVERY MINUTE. Joe Lee

Jack up the front end and spin the tires, listen for any unusual sounds. grab the tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, move the tire in and out with out turning the tire to check the bearing play. (you can also check the ball joints this way too). You can also do this for the back tires as well. Also with the back wheel bearings, only the inner bearings are lubed with the oil/grease fittings. The outer bearings have to be done by hand. If everything seems ok try a test drive as follows. Try taking the car on a 5 mile drive with light braking applications and check the hub tempature. if one is hotter than the others change both bearings and both sides pass and driver. Joe Lee

This might help. Look to the lower middle part of the drawing. Joe Lee

I'm thinking about this one. I checked out their other covers and they have a decent selection. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124911020720?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20220705100511%26meid%3Dc4c355cb801b443093c89d10676d70a0%26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D124911020720%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DSeat&_trksid=p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3A2eff10fc-eb8c-11ed-a7d4-bacd3bf5f291|parentrq%3Aedd3a57d1870ab8e56201e05fffe44f4|iid%3A1 Joe Lee

I always said these things were built fairly bullet proof...but d@mn. Makes you wonder about the newer cars if they sat for 59 years in that condition what would be left to even try to get it started. Joe Lee

I have also seen them at Wal-Mart and I got my last one from amazon. Joe Lee

Serious question here Sniper. At what range do you think? 5 feet away 10? 20? Joe Lee P.S. I assume you refering to the EMF (electro magnetic field). Not to be confused with ESG or the DEI so prevalant in todays vocabulary.

Not to sound like I'm raining on your parade but they did build these components fairly well bullet proof. Also if you look at todays manufacturing, they build them with a planned obsolesence in mind. Meaning they break or wear out with in a set number of years so you have to buy a new one. And let's not get started on chinese manufacturing procedures. Seems like if that is your concern you could just pull your old fan and inspect and or repair it and have it go another 70 - 80 years. Now if you have done an engine swap to SBC or large type engine you might need the bigger fan to push more air over the engine/pull more air through the rad and I can see that. But for a stock Mopar, not so much. Like I said not discouraging you, just thinking about the why and need of said thinking. Joe Lee

update to the vid I posted earlier. Joe Lee

This may or may not help, but it should be a good guide for the guts of the radio. Joe Lee M0013846.pdf

Seems to me the big reason for the guides was to help line up the splines on the shaft with the clutch disc and to line up the shaft end with the pilot bearing without wresting with the tranny forever to get it installed. That being said 3-4 inches for the guide bolts should be a good length with out running into any clearance problems. Joe Lee

Looks good. I'll send you mine and have you do them. lol Can't blame you for putting them in to see how it looks, I'd do the same. Joe Lee

I like this one better. Working on brakes and wheels isn't so bad with just the jack stands, but working under the car sucks if you don't have room to move around. You can probably use 2x10's for a wider tire size and add a few inches in height to this for the more rotund members on this site. Joe Lee

Now that you are a high fallutin TV celeberty, you still gonna hobnob with the nuckle draggin wrench wranglers? lol Nice pics and a good news story, Keith. Joe Lee

Hey Sam, Was the leather boot pre treated with anything or if not did you treat it with some kind of water proofing agent or install it as is? Joe Lee

Mark, Check your back motor mounts. Are they compressed? If you can't tell, an easy check is to jack the engine/tranny area up about 1-2 inches and see if the shift is easier. If it is your motor mounts are mashed and need to be replaced. Joe Lee

It's because the alternator puts out a consistent rate at all rpm's. The generator has to maintain a certain rpm to reach full output and idle speed ain't it. That's why most cars with a genny have an idle speed knob and linkage for slow or stopped traffic. Joe Lee

Your right about the wood shampoos, Sniper. How do you think all the cops in the pics look so fit compared to todays cops. Joe Lee

My heater switch had a problem like that. KeithB put out a vid a few months ago showing how to take a switch apart and check it. My switch had lost low and med but still had high. Turns out the brass plate in the switch (see time stamp 17:09) had worn down and a little tap with a punch got back med but not low speed. At time stamp `7:33 he points out the contact wear and mine looked like that. Since I live in Fla. I didn't worry about it to much. Hope this helps. Joe Lee

The fuel pumps you got from Andy B's, were they NOS? Were the diaphrams upgraded to the ethanol resistant ones? As for the fuel line, what about the short one from the fuel tank line to the input of the fuel pump? That's usually the one that goes bad and is often overlooked, especially with the P.S.I. difference between the mech and electric fuel pump. Joe Lee

I replaced that one this past summer.. Pulled the oil filter and distributor. Getting it out was a piece of cake. Flushing it was the same. Putting the new on in... used a sealant around the edges and used an air hammer at a bad angle and with a few taps it seated and worked great. I used to be 10 feet tall and bulletproof, now I'm 6'7 (walking hunched over) and water resistant. Joe Lee

100 miles with varying speeds = about 3 hours maybe less. plenty of time to get the engine up to temp and break in all the lube points in the engine. Make sure to keep an eye on the oil pressure and run the engine a minimum of at least an hour with varying rpms to simulate driving (if it can't be driven) and get the block up to temp to burn out any moisture build up etc.. in the block. Joe Lee