soth122003

Something else to consider about the grabbing brake. It was likely that the shoe had brake fluid on it and the leaky cylinder was fixed or replaced, but the shoe was just leaned off. If so, the shoe has absorbed the fluid and while it may look good, it will always be a problem. The seeped in fluid will rise to the top and create a grabby brake. If the leak went un-noticed for any amount of time, couple of days to a couple of months, no amount of cleaning the shoe will restore it to optimum condition. IMHO. Best bet if this is the case, replace the shoes. They're fairly cheap and they come as a set so you'll have new shoes on both sides no worries about uneven wear. Joe Lee

Something else you can try with the puller is a constant pressure approach. If you keep cranking on the puller until the drum pops, this puts a lot of stain on the lugs threads. If instead you tighten the puller to about 30-40 ft lbs and wait about 10-15 minutes and tighten again, you'll find that the torque loosens as the drum starts to pull away from the axle. A couple of taps with a hammer will send vibrations thru the mating surfaces to help loosen the bond. You might also use a heat gun on the drum when the torque is tight to help it loosen as well. I did this on my car and the passenger drum came off after about 30 minutes, but the drivers side took about 4 hours and it let go with a loud bang that scared the begesus out of me and I was 30 feet away when it let go. Also to note make sure the castle nut is still on while doing this, otherwise the drum can fly with out wings and hurt someone. Once the drums are off and fixed, prior to reinstalling them, clean the mating surfaces with a scotch brite pad to remove the surface crud and then coat the mated surfaces with grease and then wipe off with a rag. This will fill the micro pores with grease and keep corrosion to a minimum and make removal next time an easier process. (hopefully) As far as the grease goes, some will claim that the drum and axle are mated surfaces and not to apply grease. They are right, but after 70-80 years the surfaces no longer mate true IMHO, hence why I use a grease to keep corrosion down. Joe Lee

Sorry GT, from your other post I made an assumption. You posted the following: "Starter quit working today, the carshows are everywhere but the ole Gal will not work anymore ... It's a 6V pos. ground Car, 6V works fine but the starter. Everything worked perfectly until yesterday." From that I assumed you had been driving or starting the car on a regular basis. That's what threw me. Something just does not stop working due to a wrong part or "starter" in this case, after working for a good while. The other thing that was throwing me off was the comment of a starter for a D-19 with a P-18 engine. The P-18 doesn't use a foot starter. Then I had to remember that the starter doesn't bolt to the engine it bolts to the bell housing. My brain misfires like that from time to time, so that's on me. LoL. Now back to your problem. The D-19 (forget about the P-18 unless it is engine related) has 2 starters listed for it. The starter models are MZ-4089 and the MZ-4089A.(From the 1935-1953 Motors Manual). What the difference is I don't know, Some one with a parts manual may be able to say. If you heard a clunk and the starter stopped engaging, then I would guess that either something broke in the pinion, or a couple of teeth may have broken on the ring. (Had that happen to me before on a 69 Tornado, I had to roll the engine by the crankshaft nut to get it engage on good teeth.) You might want to give the ring gear a good look see to make sure all the teeth are good. You said you heard a clunk and that might have been a tooth or a couple of teeth breaking off. If your starter looks good and no visiable signs of damage I would check the ring gear. Joe Lee

Doubtful. You stated in different post the starter worked fine and then quit working. Inside the drive housing (pinion housing) you should have an over running clutch assy. This consists of yoke clevis attachment part, a spring, a bearing and the gear. If the spring is broken or missing it will limit the travel of the assy. The only other thing I can think of is the switch assy. If the contact button is adjustable, screw it in a little to let the arm engage it later adding more travel to the over running clutch assy. By the way, you don't have to start a new thread for the same problem. It makes it harder for people reading to have a clear idea of what's going on by have to switch back and forth between threads. Joe Lee

Newer model cars. The 49 has tapered rear axles and a key to keep the drum from spinning on the axle. In other words the drum and axle are like a mated fit. You'll need the proper drum puller to remove the rear drums. The fronts have bearings that the drum rides on and come off easy. Joe Lee

Easy to do since the spark plug hole is right above the valves. Just look and make sure both valve are closed when you get a puff of air on #1. Joe Lee

Glad to hear it. As far as the oil pump goes it can be a 2 man job, but only to make it easy. One man has to go back and forth to each side of the engine, but only a few times. (I can see why you don't want to do it. It runs fine now an if it ain't broke don't mess with it LOL). As far as the wheel bearings go, I would order them by the old wheel bearing part numbers and not the car they are attached to. Ask me how I know. Lol Joe Lee

I am not a foot starter expert, but looking at the pics in the Motors Manual and reading your problem, it sounds mechanical. If the yoke became disconnected from the starter then it (according to the pics) will engage the starter but not engage the drive to the ring gear. Same if the spring on the shaft broke. You'll have to pull the starter and see. until then everything we say is just a guess. Joe Lee

Sounds like the PO tried to get it running by memory and offset the timing. Try what Keithb said and static time it. It should start/run with little to no adjustment on the dizzy. Yes and no. If the pulley has a harmonic balancer on it, it is possible for it to have slipped and moved, meaning the timing marks are no longer aligned. If there isn't one the normally yes the timing marks can be trusted. The little plug above the number 6 cylinder is a pipe plug with tapered pipe threads and can be removed with some penetrating oil and a pipe wrench. Just take it slow and steady and maybe some heat and it should come out fairly easy. Joe Lee

Best guess from the pics posted is a rubber mallet to the ring gear. Light to moderate thumps while rotating the drive and using a wooden 2x2 to apply light pressure other side of the drive. If no else post something to help. You might try an air hammer to the flange in light trigger taps as you rotate the drive. This vibration through the metal from the hammer might help loosen the bond. Needless to say this is probably a last resort thing. Joe Lee

You're also right Doug, the Stromberg was also used on Dodge, 35-52 used the BVX-3 and the BVXD-3. I guess the D was for dashpot. I don't know if the Carter BB had a dashpot model or not though. The Stromberg listing was about 35 pages past the Carter listings in the Motors Manual (and I forgot about them to tell the truth). Joe Lee

Cooper check out this vid from Keithb7. You can probably rent a load leveler from an auto parts store for free. Most auto parts stores have a loan a tool program, they charge the tool cost to rent and then when you bring the tool back they refund your money. Or just buy one. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html?_br_psugg_q=load+leveler https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hy3RFIwMomo Joe Lee

I looked at the 1k and 2k stands on HB. And while I agree with JB that the 1k should be enough for the engine, The way the base of the 1k and the 2k are designed would make me go with the 2k. The 1k base is square and more narrow at the front and the 2k base is y'd and seems like it would handle the weight distro better. This makes the 2k more stable when breaking torques and stuck bolts or rotating the engine etc. Last thing you need is a stand that will support the weight but tips over when breaking or applying torques or rotating the engine to work on it more easily. Joe Lee

Correct carb for a 1946-1949 Dodge is a Carter B&B D6J1 according to the Motors Manual 1935-53. Joe Lee

1937 Plymouth carb models. B6G1, C6F1-5, C6H1, from the 35-53 Motors Manual. Joe Lee

I believe almost any of the Carter B&B carbs will fit your 38. Just look real close at the pics and make sure they match up close. The mount to the intake should be the same on all B&B's. Best bet is E-bay and try to find one that's been on a wrecked or sitting car that hasn't been used in years. They are easier to rebuild and you will probably be able to mix and match from your old carb. Also, cleaning and lubeing the throttle shaft, your problem will come back. May be a few weeks or a few years. The wear on the shaft will always let dirt in and it will hang again at some point. Short of a professional rebuild to address bushing wear, that's about the best you can hope for. 1938 Carter models are: B6H1, B6J1, C6J1 and C6K1. Like I said check Ebay. Joe Lee

Just a thought, but I think JBneal is onto the cause. Your area around the throttle shaft has a little bit of crud (not really visable to the eye) between the shaft and the bushing, that is being affected by the heat or vibration from a running engine. This is either causing it to become sticky when warm or expanding a little to keep the throttle from not closing all the way with out the snap from tapping the throttle. You might want to take the carb off and soak the throttle plate section (or the hole carb) in a carb cleaning solution for a few hours and then clean it off according to the instructions. Best result would be to completely disassemble the carb and soak it or use a sonic cleaning machine. My car does this occasionally and it can be annoying but is really a minor annoyance, and just tap the throttle to fix. When I need to pull the carb for major cleaning or repair, that will be addressed at that time. Joe Lee

I pulled the cowl vent and used Andy B's seal and contact cement. It worked great and was a little high but was not a detriment. Make sure to clean the seal area real good (dremel tool with the little wire wheel) and while you have it out, make sure to clean and check the drain tube area as well. Like Sniper said make sure you place the seal right the first time, cause there is no second chance without a lot of cleaning and the seal will tear removing it if you place it wrong. Joe Lee

This is the brass bushing, right? If so make sure to lube with a bit of heavy grease. Joe Lee

Follow the manual. There is only about 3 things that can cause the no charging. 1. Generator 2. Voltage regulator 3. Bad wiring or bad grounding. The repair manual has the tips and troubleshooting techniques to figure out what might be wrong. The problem with the manual is it only addresses each component separately. It doesn't address the problem of not charging, but addresses each component not working properly. So if your wiring is good, use a multimeter and start with the generator and see if it is putting out the prober voltage to charge the battery. If it is then check the voltage regulator. When you find the component that is not working properly, use the manual to troubleshoot it. The voltage regulator is easy to check and fix or replace. The generator... About the only thing you can't check on the generator, according to the manual, is the armature check. The VR is about $60-$80 I think and the genny can be rebuilt at most starter generator shops for about $150. If you like originality, fix or replace the items that are bad. If not replace the VR and genny with a 6v pos ground altenator. https://www.ebay.com/itm/335208751824?itmmeta=01HWR0XZJZTWG5B21DCZ12BBPF&hash=item4e0bffa2d0:g:FAgAAOSw1JVaHKCw This is the one I put in my P-15. My last 2 genny's the armature went bad and I just said the heck with it. Joe Lee

I don't know about the 51, but my 48 P-15 the seat back for the back seat is hung from a rail at the top of the seat. It is 2 flanges about 6 inches below the top. At the bottom there are 2 flaps? pieces of metal that can be bolted down. On mine I use the seat base to hold the bottom of the seatback in place. Now to get the seat back off, I pulled the base and checked to see if it was bolted and since it didn't appear to be, I used a long 2x2 to lift up on the bottom of each side and it came of fairly easy. Now going back in required the judicious use of the hand smack at the top to get it seated. Joe Lee

I agree to that Ivan. Then add in a hairline crack and the float weight and fuel weight, it might be enough to slowly wick or drive the fuel up that crack, when you add in the Meniscus properties. He did say it was a slow weep that would wet the carb. Like I said, just a guess and I could be wrong, but it does make for an interesting topic. Joe Lee

Are you talking about the area of the forward bold hole by the fuel inlet? If so, that looks like a fine crack and maybe that is causing a wicking action. It's something I remembered from chemistry called a Meniscus (liquid). It has to do with the attraction of a liquid to its container. This link tells about the phenomenon using water. https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/water-meniscus Not saying this is your problem, but maybe? I'd heck the area with a magnifying glass and make sure it is or isn't a crack and go from there. Joe Lee

This is the pump I bought Oct 2018. I think I installed it in early 2019. It has worked well all these years, so I can't complain. Since it is a DC pump it doesn't care about polarity. Just ground the brown wire and run the black to the switch. Sorry about the long link. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Electric-Installation-Inline-Carbureted/dp/B07DNJWHCC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VN0E70Z3Q3LX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jarfSLsnWgY9oh3DaaGUigmjkYDmA8ebz1BFQ_fmn5RHKbokuusddFI7JS2eYAOEu9O6QsXufUpnrhT5cszKgFBvSuMjQo-wSnLvc-h6diU9XQIxaLiVDDDPa5mkITwaDFh8kSInXex8t1jOZj06_kS17B7fKAevEpIxwox6eKvxUbRvAqgrsF7ipAWFrG9wmYaso4qzD0ed-h-Etv5ikjZQiqmOIAEkrOb69wuZ7Bw.65jGwliF3s5mwkNFPKQgCBM4czITeADLHY9CvMytHrI&dib_tag=se&keywords=6v+electric+fuel+pump&qid=1713467892&sprefix=6v+electric+fuel%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-3 Joe Lee

I put my switch in a dash hole blank next to the key switch. I also used a momentary switch, so these is no chance of leaving it on. I wired it to the hot side of the ignition switch (fused with a 10 amp fuse). While my pump is not a carter, it is a 6v pump and it is great. Love it for the prime when I don't start my car for a few weeks. Joe Lee