soth122003

I don't know if this will help or not. This is the trim on my 48 P-15 Special Deluxe 2 door.

This should help.

Joe48, Greg is right. I had to lower my float to avoid that problem. initial setting is 5/64". set mine a 7/64". Also, instead of holding the pedal to the floor, pump the pedal about 3 times. This will work the accelerator pump to put in 3 squirts of gas instead of one by holding the pedal down.

Man Don, With a setup like that you should be cleared for take-off on runway 2.

Sorry. My mistake. I read the BBS portion and my brain thought B&B.

Look on top of the float bowl cover and you will see an angled portion of the cover. On the right side of this there should be a stamped number D6G1 or something to that effect.

After reading aircooledtech,com's site I went the cheap route and used the air soft BB's. Bought the 2500 bottle and it came out to 3.5 oz for the back tires and 3.75 for the fronts. I did a test drive at 40 mph and the car was smooth as silk. Then my left rear motor mount disintegrated and I lost 2nd and 3rd gear. That was my today project to replace the MM and with the florida heat and humidity I am wiped out. So have a good night and I'll check back later.

The carpet definitely has to go... my aunt made an attempt in the early 70s to get it back on the road, so she started adding stuff to it... so the ugly blue shag carpet is her fault... Any idea or advice on where to get a replacement carpet? Check out this site for carpet. http://www.carparts.com On another note, You painted your tires. Looks good. Make sure you painted the inside good, due to the rivets you could loose air through them. Also check this out for the balance procedure when you get your new tires. ( I ordered mine from wal-mart for $250.00 for a set of 4) http://www.innovativebalancing.com/Classicchart.htm http://aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/balancing_beads/ Check out this vid on you tube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq263AYgyYg That's how I did my car tires on my P-15. The tires look good and there are no ugly balance weights.

Try looking between the emergency brake handle and the door jam. That's where mine is. Nice car and welcome to the forum.

Actually Don, this is pretty tame stuff. Unlike muratic acid which is very caustic, this is a light calcium, lime scale and loose rust remover. thie trick is the amount of time you leave it setting on a surface or in this case a radiator. Even orange juice will cause a chemical reaction if you leave it on for a long period of time. A prime example is if any of you guys smoke and use a zippo, fill the lighter with fluid and put it in your pocket, about an hour later your leg has a chemical burn that while not life threating, is damn uncomfortable. As far as you aluminum radiator, you wont have any rust, but you could have a calcium and or a lime scale build up. I used this on an aluminum rad out of a Toyota and it work just fine. As far as the MSDS, it's pretty self explanatory. Section 1, who makes it and what it's used for. Section 2, what it does to you and where it affects you. Section 3, ingredients by percent to weight. Section 4, first aid. Section 5, firefighting. Section 6, Spill procedures. Section 7, handling and storage Section 8, Protective gear. The more gear you have to wear to use the product the more dangerous it is. Section 9, What is does in heat, water, and other chemical reactions. Section 10, stability, or what makes it go boom or flash into fire. Section 11, what is did to lab animals in testing. Section 12, what it does to the environment. Section 13, how to get rid of it. Section 14, how to move it. chances are if it is not regulated by DOT, it's fairly safe. Section 15, regulatory info. is it an immediate threat, long term threat, does it cause cancer. Section 16, any additional info not covered by sections 1-15. Hope this helps. If you have any questions about an MSDS you can call the number in section 1 and they can help you understand each section. Most companies that produce products that require an MSDS also have a HAZ-MAT person or section that oversees the making, storage, handling and shipping of the product.

I noticed at the start of this thread, you wanted to flush and pressure test your radiator. I did my radiator a couple of weeks ago. When I first got my p-15 in Mar this year I flushed it with the usual rad flush kit. They suck!! Now this is just me, so if you don't want to do it this way, I won't be offended. I find this works well on cars that have been sitting for a long period of time. Take a trip to the dollar general and get about four bottles of CLR cleaner. Pull your rad, plug the hose ports with a rag and use three of the CLR bottles. Lay it flat on its front for about 10 min. then lay it on its back for another 10. Same with top, bottom, left and right sides. I let mine soak for about an hour total. Stand it upright and remove the rag from the bottom port and watch the crud that comes out. You can use the 4th bottle on the engine when the rad is out. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat, drain the engine block, Affix a garden house to the water pump inlet, I used duct tape for this, Pour the last bottle of CLR down the thermostat hole, let it set for 5-10 minutes then turn the hose on low to med pressure and flush out the block, Make sure you have the spark plugs installed or at least plug the holes good to keep the water out. All the crap in the block will come out the thermostat hole. The reason I do it this way is to get the big chunks of crap out of the radiator and the block. The only draw back to this is if your rad is rusted bad on the inside, it will leak. When I finished mine, it opened up a small pinhole. Went to the local auto shop and got the good rad sealer (the one with the copper in it) started the car, used the sealer and presto, leak was stopped and the engine ran about 20 degrees cooler, and got rid of my overheat issue.

If the gas is green, that is probably mold from the ethanol. With old gas like that I would drain it and maybe flush the tank. When gas breaks down like that what you are left with is a thick varnish type liquid. not good for any engine to run on.

For your hubcaps, I just did mine. I went to the Dollar General and bought a box of SOS pads. Five minutes per cap and the were super shiny. For the ship emblem. I'm thinking an enamel based paint with a small paint brush and then a clearcoat to protect it. But only on the emblem.

For putting oil on the pistons, a syringe and a short piece of tubing will work real good.

Try Mike's Carburetor Parts. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-BB-Carburetors_c_672.html

Too True. A bigger hammer and beat that thing like it owes you money!

Aside from the 1/2" inmpact and BMF Hammer, a heat gun or torch will help. Just use it with some care.

If the stall and roughness is on initial accelerator action, i.e. stepping on the gas from idle to accelleration, make sure your check ball is installed under the accelerator pump piston assembly. Mine was missing and that caused a drag on the engine until the vacuum could pull enough gas from the float bowl.

That's what I think as well. I broke one of my thermostat housing bolts (it was corroded bad) and it is a 3/8 - 16 as well. Seems like most of the bolt sizes are about that on my 48 P-15.

Nice! Very nice. The place where you got your springs, is it a local shop or a website. If the latter could you post the site address?

Kinda off topic, but after the teasing of being sniped, I finally got a P-15 hood ornament. The nice thing is that the guy who sniped me paid $36 plus S&H of $12.00. I got mine for $9.99 plus S&H of $10.00. I guess it's true, good things come to he who waits. (or is sniped by a snot. LOL)

Joe Flanagan, Gotta pic of it. Joe Lee

Sweet looking car. I used to live in Charelston Heights in the 70's

To true. Sniping is a good way to get something cheaper. I haven't bid on Ebay in years and forgot about that trick. The guy I was bidding against had been bidding for a day or two and when he stopped, I thought he reached his price limit. There are other emblems on ebay ranging from $7.00 (bad shape) to NOS ones starting at $225.00.(out of my price range) I saw them listed at Collectors Auto Supply for $400.00. Oh well, as they say better luck next time. Oh and as for being a snot, It beats the heck out of my Ahole list. Snot being an annoyance. LOL

That's one the things I am missing on my '48 P-15. If anyone has an extra I would like to buy or trade for it. Also I'm looking for the plastic hood ornament insert. I found a few on Ebay, and some snot sniped me at the last 5 seconds for one. so if someone has an extra one of those for a reasonable price I would be interested in that as well.