dodgeguy

You go Mac ! I need some of your MOJO and outlook on life , need to hang around you more!

Any time I have to retime a engine (such as over haul , or pulling dist for any work ) I time it manually by hand to get it started. Forget all the marks etc. to get running at 1st. With dist out , all plugs out , turn engine by hand with finger in no 1 plug hole when you feel pressure pushing on finger stop turning engine. Either look in cylinder and watch for piston to get as close to top as possible, or look at TDC mark as you continue turn engine by hand on balancer/ pulley ..Look in dist hole on block and see where oil pump drive is clocked . Try insert your dist with rotor pointing close to where you want no 1 plug wire to be. Might have to pull dist out and back off a few degrees on pointer since gears are helical cut and dist shaft will rotate as you drop in. Run all your plug wires in firing order leave dist loose fire it up. might have to turn dist few degrees either way to get to fire. If engine binds as you crank with starter you are too far advanced ,turn dist few degrees other way till it starts. I can listen to rpms as engine runs and move dist back and forth and usually get within 5 to 8 degrees without time light. BTW doesn't matter on dist cap which tower is number 1 plug as long as rotor is approaching that tower with no 1 cyl at tdc and you put rest of wires on in firing order.( might limit because of length of plug wires, primary wire from coil or room around ign advance can though) I know I will catch heat but im old never could afford timing light till I was 25 yr old.! P S on Chevy you can use a long screw driver to turn oil pump drive It slotted to where you want it to help line up with dist shaft I once passed a maintenance mechanic test at St Louis main post office the tester took the distributor out of a postal jeep turned engine over with starter, handed me the dist said put it back in and make it run, had it going in 5 min, they offered me the job but I turned down, went into trucking Hind site is 20/20 right Macthefinger?!!!!!!

Would a 47 D24 sedan be close to your Chrysler coupe? I can post in morning. Curious are you switching to a floor shifter or are you running a late model auto trans? P.S. I don't judge another mans build !!!!

Looks like you had to use a rear steer rack no room in front of cross member

60 inch track width?

WOW Thanks exactly the picture I was looking for. Witch kugel unit did you use? width? was it a generic or specked for a particular make?. I tried to P M you didn't go through.

Hi saw your picture on subframe. post. How did you handle the coil sprung pockets that sit outside the stock frame rail when you grafted in the Kugal cross member? Im getting ready to order a fat man stub for 47 but am sill considering alternatives. Thanks Len

touche

Wow I live in St. Louis, hope I never brake down on this Skinker street mentioned or any place south of Cape Girardeau or further south say like Sikeston LOL all in jest of course I'm locked down here in St. Louis. But I feel like a teenager again Gas is Cheap and I'm grounded.!!!! Wont be able to get through the front door! Even having groceries delivered not sure how that is going to work out yet.

The first time I was under my 47sedan to grease front end( I did have luxury of a 2 post lift) I stood there thinking like a 40s engineer I couldn't help think how many mechanics before me had stood in a grease pit with coveralls and a "Royal Triton" scull cap on and performed this same task. It was humbling I think I counted 21 zerk fittings total!!!

I talked to wheel vintiques about this very subject. I bought some for my 39 Chevy and I am pleased. my conversation with them if I could run beauty rims, full cover caps such as 60 Dodge or dog dish or original caps (small that came with my 47 D24 , with or with out beauty rims. Happy to say there plain steel wheels will allow you to run all of the above. The only caveat is you cant run a deep dish 'reverse" wheel because they have to reverse the bell. The deep dish is only if you are trying for a bigger positive offset such as if the rear-end is too narrow, my case under 60 inches. The wheels come with nubs and also except the SS style that Chevy used. If you go with re pop small caps the can weld a small aluminum spacer to the repop so the attach to the inside of center like a Chevy ss cap. I might add this all stated when I was sourcing a later model rear axle and was trying to find widest wheel that would fit rear wheel house. By staying close to the original width of 60 in on my d24 it makes selection and price easier since stock offset neutral, hope this long response helps.

On your ignition issue. Clean points. Turn dist till points are closed. Turn key on, used a tool to open and closed points quickly, you should get a spark out of center plug wire coming out of coil(hold wire close to ground) should jump to ground. If not check primary voltage to coil from ign switch.

Now you have done it. You mentioned the "C" word regarding your engine. Half the forum will bite your head off and other half will just not speak to you. But I will go out on a limb for your behalf. I put a Vintage air in my 39 Chevy sedan,(very little room under dash) managed to keep cowl vent operational by motorizing cowl unit. I power the "Sanden " a/c compressor with a stock 305 cu in "C" word engine, works great. I used the Gen 4 unit that has non computerized controls (doesn't lose function } if battery is disconnected. Only issue I had was insulation for doors and roof . The old cars seem to lose a lot through the metal and get solar gain to inside ambient temp. At time of install Vintage air didn't offer a fresh air mode but mine does have combos of floor, vent, and defrost modes. Only other issue is cost, bought mine through local rod shop, Vintage air wouldn't sell direct to me. I have heard that Summit will sell to you but not sure on cost.

Ok guys you have my attention. I have owned a 47 d24 sedan for 5 years and I honestly didn't know there was a "town " sedan. I do I tell which I have. Also in referasnce to the curved radio. I cant tell from his pictures, is the glass over the dial curved or are the buttons arched? Thanks

I didn't mention. No problems with the city. Stored inside my detached garage. We have 3 old cars now, 2 running plus the dodge. Son is losing hi car storage space , so his hot rod coming here. I'm too old for all the added stress so going to get rid of a lot of stuff.

Life's changes have forced me to abandon our 47 D24 project 94 door). We tried selling a few years ago as a running driving project with not much interest here in St. Louis in the old stock Dodge stuff. Now having sold the power train and removed the front clip I just don't see any way to sell it. Had plans for a v8 and better brakes but all that has changed now. Wife wants me to part it out via EBay and Craigslist but it seems I have lost my "Mojo" on selling on these sites. Don't have room to store all the various parts. Any ideas or words of encouragement would be welcomed.

Last comment reminds me of lyrics of Sittin On Top Of The World by late Doc Watson. " If you don't like my peaches, don't shake my tree " Stay outa my orchard, let my peaches be" You get the drift.

Unless his battery is in some obscure out of sight location, he should be able to look at battery and tell if system is 12 volt.

While not local to you, Jack Brewer in St. Louis. He does lots of mail order work. www.vintageplaterestoration.com 817-7279185

A. Where did you find a heat/dust shield that looks brand new? B. What kind of camera are you using, the pictures are so clear it looks like Im standing there in person.

Hi Don, I'm going by my experience on a small block Chevy, so I err on cautious side now with any flat tappet engine I own, just a opinion based on past experience not trying to step on any toes or peoples opinions.

I wish you guys would quit breaking into my shop and using my workbench for photos! Oh wait you mean all work benches look like this when being used? My buddy told me when we are down to our last 1/2in wrench its time to clean off the work bench. I was going to suggest you run a extra tube off the 4th hole in collector to confuse people , like a down draft tube, make it go to nowhere or connect them and say its a balance tube to eve out the "pulses" but saw you did a nice return short tube. VERY NICE WORK a true innovative hot rod BTW what is the maroon street rod in back ground looks like 35 ford or Plymouth.

Whenever I work on a model that I'm not familiar with I check fit of parts i'm going to use for reassembly like diameter of pin into the pinion shaft hole before I get to far along so I know how difficult it will be. After all that long winded advice I usually forget such and in same situation . Good luck. Oh and excellent pictures and close-ups. Helps new guys see what we are dealing with!

Was going to suggest magnaflux and hot tank but saw it later in post. Don't forget ZDP (zinc) additive for your oil. flat tappet cams will wear out quickly with modern oils that are forced on us these days. 2 door sedans are rare in these parts, but cool. Guy on you tube converted 4 door to one but I'm not sure proportions look right regarding front doors. By the way your engine hoist must have one heck of a reach, or the old "shade tree" was pressed into service.

Does your significant other know you are using the driver seat of the daily "grocery getter" as a backdrop for a greasy harmonic balancer? I prefers to use kitchen counter or dining room table for such shenanigans !! Oh and by the way , her dishwasher doesn't work well as a parts washer like my buddies said it would!