James_Douglas

On my '49 I am using the factory spring with the covers. I was able to slip them off, take the center bolt out, clean and pain the springs and put it all back with grease. Seem fine. On my 1947 I had new springs made by Eaton. Eaton tells you very specifically to NOT grease their springs as it will harm the steel. I asked more than once for the science behind how the grease harmed the steel and they never provided any data. I know Chrysler had a patent on a special steel for the springs: "Amola, a fine-grained, alloy steel using in its manufacture, among other things, a definitely controlled ratio of molybdenum, silicon and aluminum," is reported by the Chrysler Corporation. "Not only has the formula for this new steel been developed by Chrysler Corporation engineers but also the method by which it is made. The development of Amola steel makes available to all manufac- turers of mechanical units a higher-quality steel at lower cost than has heretofore been available. Its uses range from carburized gears, through axle shafts and springs to high-carbon razor blades as little as 5/1,000 of an inch in thickness." What the difference is between the steel now used by folks like Eaton and the "Amola" steel Chrysler used I cannot day. Chrysler greased their springs, Eaton and others now say not to. Who knows? James

I use spray copper on mine, it worked fine. James

I used them in my SU's and worked great...

Over the years I have had problems with the viton seals. I stick with the brass ones. What I do is the following: Drill a steel plate to take the Needle Valve seat. Screw seat into the steel plate which is in a bench vise. Then place the brass needle in it. Take a small hammer and dive it a couple of rear good hits to seat the brass needle and seat. I then take the needle valve and give it a light polish on my polish wheel. Then I put it all in. I have run the same needle and seat for 10 years without any issue in daily driving. I do have a BIG filter in the engine bay. James.

At the place out of town I have a lift. My back really likes that. But here in San Francisco I can hardly get the car up in the air before I hit the ceiling. I use my 2 ton Milwaukee floor jack under the front frame or the rear-end and I use stands. If I am going to be doing any work that would rock the car, I also pull out very large first growth Douglas Fir blocks from a BIG beam that came out of a 1922 building here in San Francisco. In addition, I often use my Blackhawk bumper jack as well. Three things would have to fail for me to get seriously hurt. As for calling for help. One could always carry your 45 Auto with you and that would get some attention....at least around here ?

Lets see... I have been using our 1947 Desoto Suburban as out daily driver for 18 years. In the middle of San Francisco traffic. On the drive to out place 80 miles out of town on the freeways with all the Bay Area traffic. It is mostly stock. I did put disc brakes on the front about 12 years ago. I run a standard master cylinder although it was brass sleeved for longevity. The fluid drive helps a lot on the hills here in town. No riding the clutch at traffic lights on steep hills. One thing. I used adapters and run DOT approved racing AN fitting steel braided brake hoses. I have had new NAPA hoses fail in less than six months. I also modify the master cylinder to seal it and run a line up to the fire wall and put a remote brake reservoir there so I can check it at a glance. I use an plastic one I mark with a sharpie so I know if the level has dropped just by looking at it. If you rebuild the bushings in the windshield wiper pivots and rebuild the stock wipers the system is good for all but the nastiest rainfall. My car is still 6 volts. Now I will be rebuilding this car over the next year or two. The changes I am going to make are: 1. I will stick with the three speed and overdrive. I thought, and purchased, a powerflite automatic, but I decided not to use it. 2. We will be using a electric power assist on the stock steering. 3. The cooling system will be changed to use an electric water pump and electric fan(s). This will allow full flow at idle in traffic on hot days. As a note, the fluid drive cars but a drag on the crankshaft when dead stopped or in very slow stop and go traffic. On hot days the engines can and do heat up even when everything is as good as new. Chrysler even had a tech note that warned not to keep the cars "on the coupling" for more than 5 minutes at a dead stop. Of course 1940's traffic is not 2020's traffic. Hence why I am making the change. You can get around the problem by just clutching it...but as I get older that will be hard on my legs. Just read the late Don C's comments on that. 4. I am making the car 12 volt to deal with the cooling and the steering needs. A high quality 12 volt to 6 volt step down will assure that the 6 volt items will all be at 6 volt 99% of the time. 6. I will be using a Holley Sniper on a custom adapter on my Edmonds two 1BBL manifold and electronic ignition. I am also looking at using a VS-57 blower to increase the power. So equipped, I hope to travel the USA in 24 to 36 months with Sondra. Assuming she lives and I live to do so. It has been hell at work for her in the last few days and it is going to get a lot worse in the next few weeks. Happy New Year. James.

A chart like the following: http://www.golftechs.us/Reference/viscross.pdf Is what I have on the subject. There is an actual formula to convert ISO to SAE. The ISO to SAE numbers are not exact unless you use the formula. I think that SAE15 is closer to ISO32 than SAE10. If someone wants to run down the formula and do the math, be my guest. All I know is that when I talked with the engineer at Gyrol, he told me to use ISO32 with a lot of anti-foaming agent in it and change it every 7 years. Since they held the Patent on the design and licensed it to Chrysler, that is good enough for me. James

Marc, I am using 104743 ISO32 NOT SAE10. An SAE 10 oil is thinner than ISO 32. If one had a good bearing it in theory would perform better all other things being equal. The BIG issue is that unless one knows the EXACT amounts of anti foaming agent in each oil, then a head to head comparison is worthless. Remember, it is the velocity of the oil in the coupling that transmits the torque. Not the viscosity. Any aeration will lower the torque transmittal. So, unless one knew the levels of anti foaming agents in each oil, it is near impossible to do any comparison at the margins. Also, was a "standard day used" a difference in air temperature of 10 degrees will change the torque output of the engine and on and on. For me the big deal is the state of that bearing in the units. I would use ISO 32 (SAE15) oil in my cars and not anything thinner. Also, these things get very hot. Hotter than people think. The VI of the oils are also important. James

The two things I complained to Earl about was a lack of the threaded hole for the throttle stud and no heater valve boss. I think his heads would have had a wider appeal if they were "swap and play". I saw one where someone milled the ribs off across the head and made a steel plate that went under the head bolts that had a stud welded to it for the throttle bell crank. James

I sent an email to NW transmission and asked for specifics on the seal material. When ones knows that, then one can say what fluid should or should not be used. If it is one of the series of Viton Series of fluoroelastomers then it is likely that the Mobile Circulating fluid would be fine with it. But, I would check with the seal manufacturer for confirmation. Two things to remember. One is that the fluid needs to be THIN just above what the roller bearing needs for lubrication. The second is that it needs a LOT of anti-foaming agent in it. If the oil foams, it will slow the velocity and the power transfer. Almost all regular hydraulic oils, nor ATF, have enough anti-foaming agents. That is why I picked Mobile DTE Circulating fluid. It is also why every 7 years or so it needs to be replaced. The anti-foaming agents have a useful life of about 7 years. Even in the can. James.

Marc, I assume you read my long tech note on the subject. James.

I wanted to let everyone know that I have received emails from Northwest Transmission parts in which they state they they are rebuilding Fluid Couplings. Now, for the record, I used them to "rebuild one" in the mid-2000's. What I got back was a unit that got a new set of bushings and a new seal. They did not replace the bearing or open it up. About three or four years later (@2500 miles a year) it failed and started to leak real bad. I stuck in a spare as a temporary measure and it has worked fine for over 10 years. They are telling me that they are now cutting open the units, replacing the roller bearing, the bushings and machining the Turbine to accept a modern seal in place of the carbon seal. I asked if the seal could be replaced, with the transmission out, but with the coupling in place just like the factory seals. (Assuming you have the tools). The answer was yes. The price is $1200 Best, James.

If it were me I would: 1. Drain the fuel tank and make sure it is clean, take out the sender to look in. 2. Blow out the fuel lines and the brake lines. 3. Rebuild, or at lease put in new rubber, into the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders. DO NOT put in new cylinders without inspecting the internal parts carefully. New cylinders have had bad parts in them from reputable vendors. I would replace all the bake line hoses. 4. Drain the transmission and the rearend. Put in a few pints of kerosene and let it sit. 5. Take the radiator out and flush it. Flush the block. 6. Take the head off and the pan off. 7. Pop the pistons out and put a new set of rings in it. If they cylinder walls still have a cross hatch on it fine, if not, run a hone (lightly) to get a hatch. 8. Send the fuel pump down to Terrell Machine and have them rebuild it. 9. Start the thing up and run it with the rear end on blocks so the trans and rear end will spin. After about 15 minutes and the engine rings broke in... 10. Drain the trans and the rear end and re-fill with oil. Then drop it down and take it for a ride. I would also drain and replace the fluid coupling fluid. See my write up on that. If everyone checks out ok after all the above, drive it cross county if you like. James.

I have owned a 1947 Desoto Suburban since about 2002 and I have never seen anyone advertise parts for the roof rack. In fact, I have never seen parts on ebay as well. You almost have to buy a car to get one as far as I know. Dennis may know of someone, but he specializes in Chrysler Town & Country Woodies. The T&C Sedan as well as the Chrysler Traveler Sedan used a different roof rack than the Desoto Suburban. My rack has oak strips. I know that is not correct is all of the Chrysler cars that used wood racks used Ash as far as I know. If you do find anyone making parts let me know. I would buy a set to just have a spare. One thing is the front and rear rails had foam "air foils" around them. Mine are long gone. Without them they can "sing" when going down the highway. I wonder if the foam was for loading or to stop the "singing". James.

Thanks for the leads. I doubt that the backspace will be correct...but... When i went and looked at the 1990 dodge trucks with 15" wheel I could that made one that is called the "10 slots". It has a center that is 5x5.5 but unlike the Genie it looks like it is a FULL 360 contact on the wheel rim. We may be able to cut those and weld them into the rims that are available and do a 360 degree weld. James

I wrote them and they said they could not help.

I agree with Loren. I tried using the extra switch wiring that George sent out with the unit (which was defective, see old threads) and I ended up tossing it. I have the stock set up, abet I do not use the switch on the car but on the linkage (see old threads). This IS my daily driver here in San Francisco and throughout the Bay Area. If I need it to "downshift on demand" I just floor it and then can hold it off with my foot and it will not shift. Given the car sees 4500 pounds all the time and big hills...it has not been an issue. To each their own, but I like having it in a stock set up so that if and when there is an issue, I can use the BW literature to quickly trouble shoot any issue without having to figure in my own changes. I have enough of that kind of fun on this car already! One thing I would warn people about is that balking ring. DO NOT take for-grated the flaky behavior that thing can introduce when it is worn. It works by the friction of the ring moving on the gear and when it wears that changes. It has zero adjustment. I spent months running down a dozen things, with George telling me the while time I screwed up the wiring...it turned out that he sold me a unit with that part so far out of spec it would never work correctly. So, if that part is worn too much, you can spend a lot of time chasing ghosts. James

I general guys the problem is the offset and the method of welding the center to the rim. The car is heavy and the centers with the 4 flanges creates too much concentrated stress and causes cracks. It could be the design or it could be the lack of dressing the edges of the metal before welding. As far as I have been able to find, I cannot find a 5x5.5 pattern in a 15 inch wheel that is 5 or 6 inches wide that uses a full contact weld between the two parts.

I contacted them at the time. However, the owner of the shop blew his head off with a shotgun. The business sold to a new owner. The shop has been around since the 1880's. I have had them making wheels for me since the 1970's through three different owners. The new owners kept telling me that they did not see the invoice for this particular set. I found the actual invoice and contacted them again and that is when I got the silent treatment. I have the paper trail of conversions going back 15 years. I have not asked them for my money back, not have I asked them for new wheels for free. I have asked them to work with me to come up with a new set of wheels that would solve the problem. It is clear that either their materials or workmanship was defective in this set of wheels. Yes, I should have taken the wheels off the car when it first Happened and told them to make it right. If they did not, then I should have had my Lawyer Sue them in court. Charging them the thousands of dollars for a structural fault analysis firm to back up what was and is obvious. In the end it would have taken several years and it would have cost 10X the cost of the wheels. I would have in the end been made whole and their insurance premiums would go to pay the judgments and all the while all would have had to spend time in court. My mistake for trying to work with them.

It is a pain in the butt. We have figured out how to address the problem, but in the end it would cost in the neighborhood of $300 -$400 a wheel. We would have to get some one inch steel plate and cut out some rings that were about 11 inch ID and 11.5 inch OD. Weld those to the wheel rim drop center. Then cut the flanges off of the Genie wheel center so we have a "full round" center that we could weld to the wheel. In addition, due to the design of the center if it was cut back to get rid of the "L" it also would move the weld point from the edge to center of rim drop center line. It would them be welded 360 degrees. A real "Wheel Wright" or custom wheel shop could in fact do it if they wanted to...but finding someone to do anything really custom is proving to be a problem.

I just got quoted for Imperial Style wire wheels with the offset....$850 a wheel.

Thanks Adam, but the problem is the offset. Nothing stock is close....James.

I am posting this in the event anyone has any ideas. In 2005 when I converted the car from front drum to disc brakes, I had Stockton Wheel make up a set of wheels to clear the 11.6 inch diameter dodge discs and the GM single pot calipers. Thing were fine for a few years then I started to get tires that were loosing air. Nothing was viable, but on a bubble test you could see air leaking out at the wheel rim at the corners of there the wheel centers were welded to the wheel rim. I took the wheel and had my local welder weld up the cracked area and that seemed to solve the problem. Then a few years later other wheels did the same. We took all the wheels off and blasted them and then he welded all of them in corner areas and then wrapped around the front and welded them across the front as well. We figured that now there was enough surface area that the loads would be spread out better. A few more years go by and then a couple of months ago, I get home after a long freeway run and the front is steering odd. The tire was almost out of air. I get a good light and look and the entire wheel is cracking apart! Stockton Wheel is not even bothering to answer my emails. I guess a registered letter will have to go out. I have been calling or emailing around and none of the so-called custom wheel houses have anything for me. The problem is the large wheel base chassis on the Desoto. With it much larger hubs and the 5x5.5 pattern the only center is a "Ford Genie". Therein lies the problem. The Genie style center uses four "L" shaped flanges that are welded to the wheel rim. I need a 2 inch back space (Distance from the rear of the mounting plate to the rear of the wheel rim). That puts the "L", cut down so the short side of the "L" is only about 1/8 inch wide now, to the rear of the drop center (the lowest point of the rim). They welded it there which is just where the drop center starts to curve up. They also did not "dress" the corners of the center when they lathed it to size. So the sharp corners were left and it is those corners that dig in and start the cracking. Nobody I can find make a 5x5.5 that is a continuous 360 center to rim fit like I have on my 1949 Desoto with discs. I must have emailed or talked to 20 places. So many say "custom" when in fact they do no such thing. If anyone had any ideas, I am all ears. Thanks, James

Obviously, I love the Sparkletones Desoto Suburban!

Rich is correct. Be careful if you have classic car insurance. ANY commercial use can cause them to deny a claim. I have heard of people who used their car in a wedding fir compensation. On the way home he got into an accident. They denied the claim. I also know of someone who used his car in static photo shoots for years and then he checked with his classic car insurance. They said if he got into an accident going to or coming from a compensated event...no coverage. I would double and triple check. James